Crankshaft pully bolt Help All Is Lost
#1
Crankshaft pully bolt Help All Is Lost
Hi i have a 1985 22r pickup. I am in the middle of rebuilding my head and i broke my timing chain guides in the process. They should be replace anyways since they are still stock. I hooked up the bare head so i can still bump the starter. I have read on all the other threads to use a 1/2 breaker bar and bump the starter, use chain wrench, 1/2 impact gun, and i even made the holding fixture with the 3 holes and the 30 inch bar welded on. Broke a few 19 mm sockets already and wasted to many days working on one bolt. It has been heated through out the entire process have used pb blaster penatrater, wax, wd-40 and a few other penatraters
I read in another post about cutting the washer type flange off would relieve the tension behind the bolt would cutting that off really release the tension and will the bolt come out with ease.
Any help is great And should the toyota dealer stock this bolt
I read in another post about cutting the washer type flange off would relieve the tension behind the bolt would cutting that off really release the tension and will the bolt come out with ease.
Any help is great And should the toyota dealer stock this bolt
#2
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Have heard that if you cut a slit or two in the flange of that bolt, that will help release the clamping force tension on it and make it easier to remove. Also, make sure and use a 6-point impact socket on that nut, not a 12-point one or a regular hand socket. And yes, any Toyota parts dealer should have a replacement bolt.
#5
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Location: Knoxville, TN
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Give this a shot: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51099337
#6
Registered User
A good 6pt impact socket will not break on you. Get a long pipe to slide over your breaker bar. The longer the pipe, the more your force is multiplied in the bolt. I find 48" works quite well. It's entirely possibe the pulley has rusted a little making it a pita to take off.
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#9
Thanks
Thanks a lot crawler poowell and rob. those links confirmed that my last resort was to cut the washer off. it twisted right out with my fingers after it was cut up
Now i can finish up this project
This is why it is always a good reason to pull the oil pan if you are doing any major work on your truck. I guess the timing chain guied broke a while a go that would explane my all of a sudden out of time situation an few months back.
Timing chain was starting to cut into the case
Now i can finish up this project
This is why it is always a good reason to pull the oil pan if you are doing any major work on your truck. I guess the timing chain guied broke a while a go that would explane my all of a sudden out of time situation an few months back.
Timing chain was starting to cut into the case
#11
Registered User
Thanks for the info, staticx!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-my-truck-died-electrical-224695/index3.html#post51624818
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-my-truck-died-electrical-224695/index3.html#post51624818
...Used a Dremel and some #426 cutting discs. I made 4 cuts, intended to cut the 4 tabs off completely but the screw at the top of the Dremel broke off. I knew it was a long drive back to Wally world for another screw so I tried to take it off again. Put it in 5th gear and put my son on the brakes, one turn of my wrench with a 1.5' pipe and it came right off! It was so easy I think it would have come off without the cheater. Apparently the deep cuts were enough to relieve the pressure.
#12
Registered User
#14
The crankshaft itself seems to absorb the impact you need to loosen these bolts. I simply removed the oil pan, and placed a wedge (my tool was an allen wrench) between the lobe of the crankshaft and the rib of the inside of the block. Next, with a little tension on your bolt, give the breaker bar a gentle strike with a hammer. This has always loosened these stuck bolts for me.
#15
Registered User
Get some of that plastic line used in weed wackers, the thickest available. Take out the #1 spark plug, and run piston down to bottom deat center. Feed in 3 feet or so of plastic line in through the spark plug hole, making sure to leave a little sticking out for removal later. Turn motor counter-clockwise so piston comes up. The plastic is incompressible, so near TDC the piston will stop as the plastic line coiled up will be pressed in between teh piston and head. Remove bolt any way you find necessary. To remove the plastic, turn crank slightly the other way, and pull. It's soft enough to not harm your valves or head, and hard enough to not break apart.
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