84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Crankshaft pully bolt Help All Is Lost

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Old 03-25-2009, 07:42 PM
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Angry Crankshaft pully bolt Help All Is Lost

Hi i have a 1985 22r pickup. I am in the middle of rebuilding my head and i broke my timing chain guides in the process. They should be replace anyways since they are still stock. I hooked up the bare head so i can still bump the starter. I have read on all the other threads to use a 1/2 breaker bar and bump the starter, use chain wrench, 1/2 impact gun, and i even made the holding fixture with the 3 holes and the 30 inch bar welded on. Broke a few 19 mm sockets already and wasted to many days working on one bolt. It has been heated through out the entire process have used pb blaster penatrater, wax, wd-40 and a few other penatraters

I read in another post about cutting the washer type flange off would relieve the tension behind the bolt would cutting that off really release the tension and will the bolt come out with ease.
Any help is great And should the toyota dealer stock this bolt
Old 03-25-2009, 08:40 PM
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Have heard that if you cut a slit or two in the flange of that bolt, that will help release the clamping force tension on it and make it easier to remove. Also, make sure and use a 6-point impact socket on that nut, not a 12-point one or a regular hand socket. And yes, any Toyota parts dealer should have a replacement bolt.
Old 03-26-2009, 06:14 AM
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ok so i shouldnt have to cut the whole thing off just a few slits. then impact it off after i heat it up again
Old 03-26-2009, 06:54 AM
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Here is a thread with various tips and pictures:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=crank+bolt
Old 03-26-2009, 09:04 AM
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Give this a shot: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51099337
Old 03-26-2009, 12:14 PM
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A good 6pt impact socket will not break on you. Get a long pipe to slide over your breaker bar. The longer the pipe, the more your force is multiplied in the bolt. I find 48" works quite well. It's entirely possibe the pulley has rusted a little making it a pita to take off.
Old 03-26-2009, 12:21 PM
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take a large punchand put it in the centre of the head of the bolt.
Hit it several times with large hammer, then try the impact wrench again....
Old 03-27-2009, 05:41 PM
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I have had to cut two off. I cut the whole head off, slid the pulley off and the rest of the bolt came out with ease.
Old 03-28-2009, 07:35 AM
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Smile Thanks

Thanks a lot crawler poowell and rob. those links confirmed that my last resort was to cut the washer off. it twisted right out with my fingers after it was cut up

Now i can finish up this project

This is why it is always a good reason to pull the oil pan if you are doing any major work on your truck. I guess the timing chain guied broke a while a go that would explane my all of a sudden out of time situation an few months back.




Timing chain was starting to cut into the case
Old 03-30-2009, 11:06 AM
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Wow those photos! I can see fingers and grass. Just be glad you took the time to get it all out!
Old 12-30-2010, 02:13 PM
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Thanks for the info, staticx!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-my-truck-died-electrical-224695/index3.html#post51624818

...Used a Dremel and some #426 cutting discs. I made 4 cuts, intended to cut the 4 tabs off completely but the screw at the top of the Dremel broke off. I knew it was a long drive back to Wally world for another screw so I tried to take it off again. Put it in 5th gear and put my son on the brakes, one turn of my wrench with a 1.5' pipe and it came right off! It was so easy I think it would have come off without the cheater. Apparently the deep cuts were enough to relieve the pressure.




Old 12-30-2010, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
Have heard that if you cut a slit or two in the flange of that bolt, that will help release the clamping force tension on it and make it easier to remove.
And 4Crawler as well
Old 12-30-2010, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
And yes, any Toyota parts dealer should have a replacement bolt.
Indeed, Sir.

Old 01-03-2011, 10:39 AM
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The crankshaft itself seems to absorb the impact you need to loosen these bolts. I simply removed the oil pan, and placed a wedge (my tool was an allen wrench) between the lobe of the crankshaft and the rib of the inside of the block. Next, with a little tension on your bolt, give the breaker bar a gentle strike with a hammer. This has always loosened these stuck bolts for me.
Old 01-11-2011, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by fasterdaddy
I simply removed the oil pan, and placed a wedge (my tool was an allen wrench) between the lobe of the crankshaft and the rib of the inside of the block.
My super-secret, super-easy way of holding the crank in place to remove crank bolt:

Get some of that plastic line used in weed wackers, the thickest available. Take out the #1 spark plug, and run piston down to bottom deat center. Feed in 3 feet or so of plastic line in through the spark plug hole, making sure to leave a little sticking out for removal later. Turn motor counter-clockwise so piston comes up. The plastic is incompressible, so near TDC the piston will stop as the plastic line coiled up will be pressed in between teh piston and head. Remove bolt any way you find necessary. To remove the plastic, turn crank slightly the other way, and pull. It's soft enough to not harm your valves or head, and hard enough to not break apart.
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