Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Maybe Injectors? But if it were that, it wouldn't run well sometimes and bad others I suppose....not sure I'm much help.

yoder519

philbert, thanks for your reply. thats what i was thinkin about the injectors. its like its floodin itself out.. the more you drive it, the worse it gets. it can set fro a week, i can gotry to start it up and itll fire righ tup. but if i drive to lets say walmart, stay in there for 20mins, then leave it wont start

1990yota-pickup

change out the injectors for 60-80 bucks a peice

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

you can get new injectors from LC Engineering for $200 - you just have to send in your old ones (core) - they basically clean them out (or clean someone else's cores out) and send to you.

There are cheaper places too.

yoder519

so yall are thinkin its teh injectors? even if its not the problem im sure it wouldnt hurt nothin. thansk a ton!

georghammond

Hey man,

I need to replace my fuel filter too I think. How'd that job go down?

I was talkin to some dude and he was saying you need to drop the entire fuel tank in order to change the fuel filter. Is this legit?

Could you give me a quick how-to?

thanks man,
george

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I think you're thinking the fuel pump.....the filter is mounted on the engine, near the oil filter. search

Teuf

Burlyone, explain shorting the connector, and the check engine flash. I did my timing and got a check engine flash after following SOP to check timing. PS my truck runs good, timing was 0, reset to 5 btdc. I KNOW>>>>>>

theBurlyone

I would still short the connector to look for trouble codes because it could be a potentiometer that's going bad or working in reverse or something. So maybe it's adjusting the A/F ratio in the opposite direction that it's supposed to be adjusted in.

theBurlyone

to answer your question teuf, there are two connectors on the drivers side of the firewall that plug into rubber holders. I believe the smaller of the two is the one that you need to short with a paper clip. Then you go into the cab and turn the key to start but don't start the engine. If everything is ok then the check engine will do the following: *flash* pause* *flash*(and it will keep going) If something is wrong then it will pretty much communicate in morse code(a series of flashes and then a pause) I need to find the page that has the codes listed but that's pretty much how it works

yoder519

well, theres no easy way about it. its located on the pass. side of the block abover the starter. theres a line on teh backside and front side. make sure you take the fuel lines off first while it is still bolted to the block. i think the bolts fro the lines are 18mm maybe and the ones to the block are 16mm. i read soemwhere to take the back line off first, not sure if it makes a difference bu ti did it anyways. i unbolted by reachin dow between the wheelwell. if you have a body lift you can get to it if you take teh pass tire off, theres a space between the frame and the fender. you will bust your nuckles up, heck i even bruised my arm in 3 places. its a tough cookie



thanks burlyone fro teh info! i never knew thats how you did it.

Teuf

Ah OK when I did my timing, I saw it flash. Now I know its purpose. Up till know i heard mention codes,? And I did not know how to find them, or you had to buy an electronic gizmo. Thanks for the follow up, you got me investigating more, Vielen Dank

georghammond

Hi Philbert,

Actually I found it. It's not on the engine. I found it underneath the body. It was on the gas line about 2 feet from the gas tank. But could be differnet on different models. I have an 84 4runner.

- thanks george