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84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

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Old 08-31-2009, 11:57 AM   #1
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22R Carb Adjustment

So, I have checked out all the sites on this subject. I know which screw is which, which part of the linkage does what. The issue I have is when its said for idle mixture 3 1/2 turns from full, thats all it says. Is it all the way in and 3 1/2 back, or all the way out and 3 1/2 in?

On another note, the guy I bought it from removed the little cap that holds the preset adjustment of the screw and leaned it waaaayyyy out. I have been constantly tinkering with it and cant seem to get it just right.
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My mom used to tell me that Moze...except she made me do it in the dark with a ninja outfit on...
2008 Tundra- 5.7, 4.30's, 4X4, 2" leveling kit, 275/75R18 Courser A/T's, DCLB, auto-lsd, 6 speed auto, 381HP/401FT LBS

1979 Pickup- 20R, 4.7:1, 4.56's, 33" KM2's, straight body, 5" lift, home-brew hi-steer, front receiver
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:31 PM   #2
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tighten the screw until it cannot go in anymore but dont put a lot of torque on it just until you feel it stop and turn counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns, well thats how i did mine when i had a 22r, it seemed to work fine
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Old 08-31-2009, 01:41 PM   #3
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Exactly which screw is it? I don't know which screw is what and all.But I would like to for future reference.
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:19 PM   #4
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He's talking about the idle mixture screw. On a stock, unmolested carb it will have a plug over it that keeps it from vibrating out over time, and if you think you really need to adjust it, you have to drill the plug out. Passenger side near the base. Look at a diagram it will show you where it is. I've tried messing with the idle mixture screw based on the FSM and other write-ups and it never works out for me...
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built2Grind View Post
tighten the screw until it cannot go in anymore but dont put a lot of torque on it just until you feel it stop and turn counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns, well thats how i did mine when i had a 22r, it seemed to work fine

Thanks, ill give it a shot.
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Originally Posted by JonnyBoy View Post
My mom used to tell me that Moze...except she made me do it in the dark with a ninja outfit on...
2008 Tundra- 5.7, 4.30's, 4X4, 2" leveling kit, 275/75R18 Courser A/T's, DCLB, auto-lsd, 6 speed auto, 381HP/401FT LBS

1979 Pickup- 20R, 4.7:1, 4.56's, 33" KM2's, straight body, 5" lift, home-brew hi-steer, front receiver
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83 View Post
He's talking about the idle mixture screw. On a stock, unmolested carb it will have a plug over it that keeps it from vibrating out over time, and if you think you really need to adjust it, you have to drill the plug out. Passenger side near the base. Look at a diagram it will show you where it is. I've tried messing with the idle mixture screw based on the FSM and other write-ups and it never works out for me...
exactly, same here. Im going to try Built's suggestion, ill let you guys know how it turns out.
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Originally Posted by JonnyBoy View Post
My mom used to tell me that Moze...except she made me do it in the dark with a ninja outfit on...
2008 Tundra- 5.7, 4.30's, 4X4, 2" leveling kit, 275/75R18 Courser A/T's, DCLB, auto-lsd, 6 speed auto, 381HP/401FT LBS

1979 Pickup- 20R, 4.7:1, 4.56's, 33" KM2's, straight body, 5" lift, home-brew hi-steer, front receiver
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:31 AM   #7
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Yeah...the entire process is to get the screw back to stock, which (I haven't looked this up but I'll assume the 3 1/2 turns is correct) is 3 1/2 turns, then fine tune from there. This is the part that gets me. What you're supposed to do is turn the mixture screw out till you get as high an idle as possible using the screw, so eventually it should stop raising the idle, then drop the idle back down with the idle speed screw. You continue this process until the idle mixture screw will no longer raise the idle, then set the idle speed where you want it with the idle speed screw and you're done! Awesome, except it never works for me. Probably I've got another issue like a vacuum leak or something, but for me, I can get to where the idle mixture screw won't increase the idle anymore (I think...but it's been a while since I tried this), but once I get to a certain point, I cannot get the idle speed screw to drop the idle down to where I want it. So I idle up with the mixture screw, and the speed screw won't drop it down. However if I pull on the accelerator cable, I can get the idle to drop...but it just releases back to where it's idling high when I let go of it. And my linkages seem fine and well lubricated. I also have a rebuilt carb. Anyways, I end up dropping my idle to where I want it with the mixture screw, which isn't the right way. This causes a little sputtering I can hear at the tailpipe, but at least my idle isn't super high.

Let me know if you get different results!
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:06 AM   #8
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Get an adapter plate(cheap) to mount a Holley 500 2 barrel.But then get a Ford 2 Barrel electric choke,mine came from a 78 Tbird 351m.A small bit of grinding so the throttle plates open all the way,make a bracket for the throttle cable and you are wheelin.Easy carb to set up,repair and lots of them around.Works great on my 84 22r.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:24 AM   #9
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Dude, I totally forgot about this thread! I ran it in untill it killed the truck, the back 4 turns, smooth as butter now. Put some high temp RTV (silicone) in the screw hole and it seems to be holding so far. Thanks for the info though Rocksaurus.
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Originally Posted by JonnyBoy View Post
My mom used to tell me that Moze...except she made me do it in the dark with a ninja outfit on...
2008 Tundra- 5.7, 4.30's, 4X4, 2" leveling kit, 275/75R18 Courser A/T's, DCLB, auto-lsd, 6 speed auto, 381HP/401FT LBS

1979 Pickup- 20R, 4.7:1, 4.56's, 33" KM2's, straight body, 5" lift, home-brew hi-steer, front receiver
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:32 PM   #10
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Bump on an old thread....

I set mine 3-1/2 turns back from all the way in and it wont idle. Seems to run fine but I cant keep it running.

Then another method is to turn the screw until the idle stops raising....well for me that's about 3/4 of the way out! Which is about 15+ turns from that 3-1/2
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Gijunk, you are the official winner of "Ugliest truck on YotaTech!" Congrats!
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:56 PM   #11
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im going to bump this thread again. My truck will not run until its about 8 turns out. Fuel mileage seems to be way down, and it smells rich. But when I try to lean it out it just wont run.

Whats the deal here?
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1985 pickup 4x4 22re (g.i.junk)

1988 pickup 4x4, 3vz (3.alotfasterthenmy22re), 5spd, 35x12.50 mudder's, Dual 55W off-road lights, custom flatbed,
cobra 19 ultra 3, 5.29's, 30 spline axles, F.R.O.R twin stick kit, O.D. Green paintjob, dual jerry cans, I.S.R mod

1988 Xtra Cab SR5- 3vz, Auto, completly stock, ONLY 129,xxx.....runs great, but sat underwater.

1986 22r 4x4

1985 4runner....nothin but the frame!

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Old 05-21-2013, 03:35 PM   #12
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fuel cutoff solenoid sounds bad.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:31 PM   #13
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I would suggest adjust timing, tune carb, adjust timing again, re tune carb again.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:31 PM
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22r, 4x4, 89, adjust, adjustment, adjustments, barrel, carb, carburetor, ford, idle, manual, mixture, rich, toyota

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