Yes U Can OME + HiSteer
04-25-2011, 07:15 PM
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Yes U Can OME + HiSteer
First gen truck with an OME lift and High Steer. I have the heavy duty spings (I have arb bumper and winch). I also used two driver side springs and a 3/8th's inch block on the drivers side. BUT I have also removed the bottum spring on both leaf packs to lower the truck and give it a better ride (my personal preference). Just thought Id share.
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04-25-2011, 07:27 PM
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Yea and it took a press to bend that thing (had to do it to clearance the frame and oil pan). I could of done a better job positioning the steering box but this was my first go round and you learn as you live. Special No thanks to my brother and my mechanic for watching me start this project and walking out the shop door with no help. No respect after five o'clock thats for sure. lol!
04-25-2011, 09:34 PM
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ToyotaPics001.jpg?t=1303794954
This is the way my truck sits now on 32's. I could clear 33's but I do most of my wheelin in the southern apps. mountains. Mostly steep dirt hills with no turn arounds at the end of the trails so I prefer to keep it low and locked. I have not measured my chassis clearance but in my situations I have never been hung up. It seems like im always teetering on two wheels, and most of the time I dont like it. BUT who never tried, Never Did.
This is the way my truck sits now on 32's. I could clear 33's but I do most of my wheelin in the southern apps. mountains. Mostly steep dirt hills with no turn arounds at the end of the trails so I prefer to keep it low and locked. I have not measured my chassis clearance but in my situations I have never been hung up. It seems like im always teetering on two wheels, and most of the time I dont like it. BUT who never tried, Never Did.
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04-25-2011, 10:49 PM
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Not sure. It came with a old school 3" superlift 3" kit and I have been trying to lower it ever since. It road to rough plus my back tires kept coming off the ground. Only option left for me is to get a skyjacker kit and start pulling leafs. They seem to ride the best plus flex alot. OME is to stiff for me in my experience.
04-29-2011, 12:29 PM
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xxxtreme22r im not sure of the color. They guy that restored the truck worked as a mechanic for toyota so I assume it is a toyota color but not sure if he went back with the original color or something like a landcruiser color or something.
Jeffp go to softtopper.com and buy one for an 89 to 94 truck. It should fit perfect. Also you will have to dril a hole in the bed rail and the softopper rails and bolt it to the bed. I used two bolts per side. (We cant use bed clamps with first gen beds)
SCToy to answer your question, No. It is all stock placement.
Jeffp go to softtopper.com and buy one for an 89 to 94 truck. It should fit perfect. Also you will have to dril a hole in the bed rail and the softopper rails and bolt it to the bed. I used two bolts per side. (We cant use bed clamps with first gen beds)
SCToy to answer your question, No. It is all stock placement.
04-29-2011, 02:30 PM
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Just repainted my '82 the same color. Factory toyota beige. color code 4A8. keeping it orignal! oh, the pic of your truck is now the background on my desktop. keeps me on track for my build.
Last edited by 1stGenBen; 04-29-2011 at 03:14 PM.
05-03-2011, 02:34 PM
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Yes I plated the frame. It was a complete kit.
THANKS FOR ALL THE COMPLIMENTS GUYS.
Now I am redoing the interior. Ill start a new thread in the build up section soon.
THANKS FOR ALL THE COMPLIMENTS GUYS.
Now I am redoing the interior. Ill start a new thread in the build up section soon.
09-20-2011, 03:18 PM
#19
I am in the process of installing high steer on my truck and wanted to post a few pics of it mocked up to make sure I've got the IFS box in the right spot before I started drilling and welding. I just installed OME medium springs with 5" shackles and will post a writeup when I get the whole thing done because there seems to be a lot of questions about OME.
Everything I've read is get the box as far forward and as high as possible (but I realize most people move the axle forward). However, should the drag link and tie rod be parallel (viewed from the side of the truck)? That is how I have it positioned now, with the box as high as it will go and clear the frame. I realize I will have to put longer bumpstops on to limit the up travel to when the spring gets flat.
Everything I've read is get the box as far forward and as high as possible (but I realize most people move the axle forward). However, should the drag link and tie rod be parallel (viewed from the side of the truck)? That is how I have it positioned now, with the box as high as it will go and clear the frame. I realize I will have to put longer bumpstops on to limit the up travel to when the spring gets flat.
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09-20-2011, 03:54 PM
#20
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I wish I had spent more time experimenting with my box position. One of these days I will go back and redo it. I would move it as far forward as you can squeeze it and get the pitman arm as close to the frame as you can. Check that the spring doesnt hit the pitman arm on compression.
