dirtdobberoffroad

I just completed my rebuild 20/22r hybrid, when I first fired it up I noticed a little smoke coming from the exhuast, I was out side and it was dark so I couldnt tell the color I assumed it was oil smoke from the rings no seating yet, as it ran and I was messing with the timming and the carburator I noticed it had the whole hard fogged up so I checked my temp and it was below normal so I checked the radiator and it needed just a little not much so I filled it and kept on tinkering the smoke finally stopped but I noticed the radiator hoses where getting hard. After about 5 gallons of gas and two trips down the road it started smoking agian, this time in the day and it is deffenatly white.....my radiator was low again, I have also noticed I am loosing brake fluid somewhere not on the ground or in the cab or under the hood. I was hopeing the smoke was brake fluid being sucked through the booster into the intake but IDK. I pulled the plugs and the only one wet looking was #4 but #1 was also a little darker than the other ones.

I had a intake gasket leak on #1 and when I changed the gasket I fired it up and then water started leaking under the #1 port, I snugged the bolts some and the water quit running. I wonder if the intake is warped letting water in through the intake on #1 and it is sucking brake fluid into the intake through boostert vacuum line into #4?

This is my first engine build and I followed haynes manual for instalation and LC for tourqe specs...

dirtdobberoffroad

My compression test yeilded

#1-170
#2-175
#3-170
#4-185

does this tell any one any thing to me they all look good. I still have to do a leak down test. but when I cranked it without wires attatched there was some bubble sounds coming from the radiator, and steam and the engine had not been started in a day! all I can assume is that the steem is from compressed air being forced into the cooling system.

Night-rider123

Sounds like a head gasket, did you have the head checked?

Sensei

White smoke and low coolant level equals coolant getting into the combustion chamber. Head gasket blown, cracked, compromised, head warped, etc. Block pressure test your cooling system. Bubbles during cranking or running is combustion gases entering the cooling system. If it was me I'd pull it down to the block and check everything...

Your compression test numbers look good

dirtdobberoffroad

I had a machine shop do all the work on the block, I bought a remanufactured 20r head it all still has warranty . Then only thing that did not get work done was the intake it was a little pitted up, Have you ever heard of any one surfacing the intake where it bolts to the head?......Or maybe I can retourqe the head bolts after it has went through a couple of heat cycles.

I just rebuilt it I hate to pull it back apart....LOL....

Night-rider123

No ive never heard of it plus you got cylinder pressure in your radiator so it
wouldn't be a intake.

dirtdobberoffroad

Im sorry that was a different ? all together I should have seperated them...... But it did cross my mind that it could be sucking antifreeze into the #1 port thru the intake, that would be possible.

Night-rider123

yes possible but not likely. the intake unlike exhaust manifold does not get alot of heat so they dont normally warp. you still have cylinder pressure in the coolent system so as sensei said it should be pulled down. as far as you thinking a brake bost is putting brake fluid in the intake, just simply take the two 12mm bolts off the master and look behind it to see if its leaking.

Night-rider123

also if you you had the head shaved when you pull it down check the guide holes for the dial pins, i have seen where they needed to be drilled farther due to head shave. it will not be deep enough and cause the head to sit up and not seal.

dirtdobberoffroad

so you think retorqueing the head would be useless? I plan to pull the head off and take it to a machine shop just to look at it, but its a remaned head from a local parts chain it has a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on it, when I bought it the tag that came on it didn't give any measurments on how far they shaved it, if any.

Night-rider123

Assuming you torqued the first time, no there is no reason to try again.

dirtdobberoffroad

thats what I needed to know, So I will have to remove the front cover and redo the timing chain again correct, I dont think I would trust putting the head back on and putting the cam gear on without setting every thing back to TDC.

Night-rider123

I wouldn't take cover off, just leave the cam gear sitting on top of cover with chain still on it. Then when you go back set your crank timing mark on zero and cam alignment mark up. Thats alot of trouble taking to cover off but do what you feel comfortable doing.

dirtdobberoffroad

thats what I was hope'n I could do but I didnt want to do something wrong...THANKS I feel a lot better about it now.

OverTheEdge

It would be helpfull for you to first verify at wich cylinder you are blowing into your cooling system. Me, warm engine pressure test, pull plugs and inspect cyliders. If the the leak is pretty good, rolling over the motor with plugs pulled will present a burst of coolant from the responsable cylinder. Easier to do a leak down.
As far as the brake fluid issue. Seperate the master cylinder from the brake booster and take a peek at the rear. If it is leaking into your booster you will know.

westjohns yota

you got a pcv valve on it? those things are weird, on my 87 after i rebuilt the motor it was sucking oil through the vaccum lines and blowing it out my exhuast, loseing a bunch of oil but no leaks and no blue smoke, had me stumped for days... but thats oil so idk if the rad can tie into it, just a thought

dirtdobberoffroad

@ OTE good idea I really didnt have the supplies to do a leak down test, when I pulled the plugs after sitting a day the #4 plug had liquid on the plug itself it looked like brake fluid as in the color, Im gonna say it will be #4.

@ WJY yeah I have a pcv valve but that would just suck oil into the intake at first I had it run to a filter up on the fire wall but my dad talked me into running it back to the carb....dont know why, I thought it would be fine hooked to a filter and my Dad insisted it had to be hooked up to a vacuum source, so I hooked it up just to shut him up...LOL

@every one a few things I did forget to mention I build egr block off plates and a plate for the back of the head. you dont think it built up a hot spot on the back of the head and cracked it do ya?

dirtdobberoffroad

Oh and whats the chances on it being just a bad head gasket and not any thing wrong with the head or the machine work done?

Sensei

Reread post #4. At this point you have to pull it down. You have an internal issue whether it's a head gasket, block crack, head crack, etc. Unless you have a HUGE coolant leak into a cylinder, you will not get any bursts of coolant out of a spark plug hole. Leakdown test is to check the integrity of the rings and valves, the sealing of the combustion process.

Your pcv is routed to a vacuum source to evacuate crankcase pressure, hence positive crankcase ventilation ( pcv ). Baffles are installed in the valve cover to keep oil from entering the pcv valve.

ConSeann3ry

Leakdown test will also show head gasket, as the air goes into the rad and blows bubbles.

I think a retorque is easy enough that would be the first thing i'd do. If the head bolts have dirt on them etc they can come out of torque when the engine first gets to temp. Loosen each as little as possible then re-torque. If that does nothing check what every one else has mentioned.