Timing chain difficulty - Page 4

Red_Chili · 07-07-2008, 12:32 PM

By all means use a stand. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive one. It will be infinitely easier to work on out of the truck.

There are hoist points that should be bolted on to the head, one forward/passenger, one rearward/driver. A chain goes between, and the hoist hooks to the chain.

Look inside the intake plenum; if it is black and nasty, take it to a NAPA or auto parts place and have it dipped. If it is clean, no worries.

The engine stand uses the bolts that bolt on the bellhousing. You may need to stack a bunch of washers to make up the bolt length difference.

I did my short block on the bench, then put it on the stand (I had sons to help lift). If you are doing it by yourself, just put the block on the stand and start there. It's really nice to be able to rotate the motor around as you install the bits.

Red_Chili · 07-07-2008, 12:34 PM

And just a note for when you get there: after you reassemble the motor and drive about 100 miles, you should retorque the head bolts. Things seat.

If it were me, I would change the oil and filter at that time. YMMV.

83 · 07-07-2008, 01:29 PM

Great, thanks. I'm guessing the questions will REALLY start again once I start reassembly..

83 · 07-08-2008, 08:00 AM

Ok.....I finally opened up the rebuild kit yesterday. I'm a little concerned. USA made stuff, plastic timing guides. Now I know Toyota uses the plastic guides now, so it isn't necessarily crap, but it does have me worried. Are there brands that are known to be good, and ones that are known to be bad? I'm not so worried about the gaskets (or should I be?) or other stuff, I'm mostly worried about the chain, camshaft, and stuff like that.

Is an assembly lube fine for engine parts assembly?

Now I'm getting out of engine stuff, but last night I worked on getting the rear driveshaft off. I took the four bolts off the transmission end of it, but couldn't get it off. Does it just take some hammering, or am I missing something?

Red_Chili · 07-11-2008, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Ok.....I finally opened up the rebuild kit yesterday. I'm a little concerned. USA made stuff, plastic timing guides. Now I know Toyota uses the plastic guides now, so it isn't necessarily crap, but it does have me worried. Are there brands that are known to be good, and ones that are known to be bad? I'm not so worried about the gaskets (or should I be?) or other stuff, I'm mostly worried about the chain, camshaft, and stuff like that.

I used Engnbldr's kit, he has a hybrid timing chain guide that is metal backed on the driver's side. Passenger is plastic. Worth looking into - though a guide won't prevent a worn chain from 'stretching', which is the primary problem. The chain tensioner is something to pay VERY close attention to. They bind easily, and sometimes have very small pieces of metal from the machining that cause them to bind. If it does, your new chain will go south in a big hurry.

FWIW, Ted tells me this is as true of Toyota or the OEM as it is of other brands.

For the HG, Rock or Toyota are good. IMHO. Felpro gets mixed reviews. Not used one personally.

So you are getting a new cam? Make sure your rockers are either fresh and completely smooth, or buy new rocker$ from Toyota - sorry to drain your wallet, they are not cheap. DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET on these items. They don't get the aluminum alloy quite right, so there is an expansion coefficient difference between the rocker and the steel pad, with the result that the pad will separate.

Ted told me some horror stories, and it cost him plenty to learn that lesson.

Quote:

Is an assembly lube fine for engine parts assembly?

30W oil. Use Moly Di grease on the cam. You do not want it sliding against the rockers dry or minimally oiled.

Quote:

Now I'm getting out of engine stuff, but last night I worked on getting the rear driveshaft off. I took the four bolts off the transmission end of it, but couldn't get it off. Does it just take some hammering, or am I missing something?

I use a rubber mallet so I don't mar anything. A big one.

83 · 07-11-2008, 12:45 PM

Well, the cam came as part of the rebuild kit the machine shop ordered. I talked to Ted, he thinks my timing chain is fine, but didn't like the cam. I'm probably getting the head rebuilt too...but not sure yet. So, if I do replace the cam should I rebuild the head, or what? I guess the machine shop could tell me whether the head needs a rebuild or not, but is it unwise to just add a new cam?

Can I rebuild the head with it on the engine or do I need to remove it? I'm just thinking that this truck was obviously pretty heavily abused, so it may not be a bad idea to get at it all while it's in pieces, but if I can rebuild the head at a later date without taking it off the engine....

Are you saying use 30w oil, not assembly lube? What's wrong with the lube?

So if I rebuild the head, it's the rockers and steel pad that must come from Toyota?

Red_Chili · 07-11-2008, 12:53 PM

Cam with a rebuild kit. Strange. If your existing cam is good, you can actually create more problems by replacing it (mismatched wear between new cam and old rockers). If you replace the cam, you must make sure the rockers are a) very smooth, or b) new. Mine fit a) for some reason, I think the person may have either put in a higher performance cam with new rockers, or something else led to new rockers. They sure didn't look like they had 150K on them. And it was not due to extraordinarily good care!

You cannot rebuild the head with it on the block. You need to pull the valves, replace the guides, grind the seats & valves, replace the seals, and reassemble.

Nothing wrong with assembly lube. Just not necessary. I used it when rebuilding my transmission and was sorry (lubed too well, synchros slipped till it washed out, but that does not affect your situation).

The rockers and steel pads are a single assembly (each rocker has a steel pad affixed) and yeah, they should only come from Toyota.

Ted can resurface rockers if you ask real nice. Not many can.

83 · 07-11-2008, 01:38 PM

Ok thanks. It looks like if I do the head, I'll have the machine shop do it. They said $300-350, but that's with their parts, not Toyotas...I'll check it out. I guess it is curious that they included a cam, but nothing else for the head................wonder what the deal is with that.
Any info you've got like the rocker thing, I need. It was a local-independant- Subaru-repair-shop-owner who pointed me towards this shop. The Toyota dealership machine shop people rubbed me the wrong way....
I asked the Subaru guy, since this machine shop seemed to mostly work on domestics, if they would be good for my Toyota and he said yes, they're the best in town. But talking to them on the phone and in person when I get this info from you guys they do seem geniunely interested, like "let us know, because possibly this is something we should be doing differently with Toyota engines". So I think they're open to learning what to do and what not to do, so......I'll need good info.

By the way Bill, I'm Zach. Thanks for all the help.

Red_Chili · 07-11-2008, 02:14 PM

Talk to Ted on the rocker thing. I am only parroting him.

You're welcome, Zach! I too hate going it alone.

Red_Chili · 07-18-2008, 07:01 AM

So how is your project going?
My motor is back in the truck and I am fighting for time to finish all the bits. I had to weld & reinforce the 2 into 1 collector back together (like I had to on my son's truck, seems like a weak point). My alternator plug grenaded upon removal, but the local boneyard had a complete alternator harness for $15, so that is fixed. I elected to block the EGR to keep the intake cleaner and make a tiny bit more power.

83 · 07-18-2008, 07:23 AM

Slowly, but well. My transmission should be on the way soon....engine is at the machine shop having the head rebuilt. Should be done next week. They definitely put me at ease when I brought up all my concerns. They definitely know what they are doing and are willing to take pointers from (or more like humor) someone who obviously has no idea what he's talking about but has done a lot of research...

I've just been cleaning things up and working on the interior lately, trying to get an '82 dash to fit my '83...harder than I would have thought..hopefully there will be something somewhat nice to look at once I'm done cutting & glueing...
It's pretty cool to think I'll be driving it before the warm weather's gone.

2 to 1 collector?

Is there also no emissions testing in Co? We don't even have inspections in Montana...

I didn't have anything fall apart on me..........yet, luckily. Other than the clutch pretty much disintigrating when I took it off, but I expected that. Anyway, I've got an engine stand and hopefully everything will go smoothly. I'm sure I'll have some more questions soon, but right now it's just waiting.

Update: Transmission is done and going out in today or Mondays mail!!!!!!! Now that's exciting. Marlin L52HD. I'll be paying it off for probably a year, but hopefully driving it for 20.

Red_Chili · 07-18-2008, 11:56 AM

Very cool!
Yep, Colorado most definitely has emissions in the front range. The EGR will not affect them though.
The 2-1 collector is the part that bolts onto the manifold. On the 22RE and IIRC yours, the manifold has two outlets, which merge in the beginning of the exhaust.
FWIW, that is where NWOR and Downey and others got their Tri-Y header design. Toyota's stock manifold is a Tri-Y (two pairs of cylinders' exhaust combine, then the resulting two paths combine into one). From what I have read, pretty darn efficient, too.

Crude ASCII art (dots instead of spaces which get stripped out by the BB software):
\/ \/
..\/
...|

scottd · 07-18-2008, 12:07 PM

What exactly are you doing with the dash? Replacing the dash pad? Replacing the plastic climate control / radio bezel? What's different between the '82 and '83? My '79 is missing the climate control / radio bezel so it would be good to know what the differences are in case I every run across a replacement.

I would also be interested to hear how you like the Marlin L52HD as I may go this route eventually (I have the 4-speed now

).

83 · 07-18-2008, 12:49 PM

Ah, gotcha. My rebuild kit came with two metal gaskets that go between the manifold & exaust pipes...do you just pry the old ones out? I can't get them out..maybe I'll just leave the old ones in.

Toyota did (and does) have some good ideas.

I'm replacing the dash pad, heater control/radio bezel, instrument cluster....
The biggest thing is that in '83 they switched the connections on the instrument cluster. An '82 or ealier cluster will not plug in to an '83 pickup. In '83 they switched to what the next body style plug-ins were like, even though the '83 is still a Gen 1 body style.

Otherwise, my biggest issue has been that the fake wood bezel came with
SR5 models, which often (always?) had AC, and a different layout, so I had to cut that part out of the bezel (losing precious fake wood!!). Then I had to cut that part out of my old dash, since the heater controls on mine screw into the bezel, and glue it in to where I cut the other one out. Hope I explained that ok...otherwise the screw holes all line up & all that. Just be prepared if you're going from an SR5 to a non like me, you'll run into that. The actual year may not make a difference (as long as it's 79-83), but the SR5/non-SR5 does.

The dash pad from the donor truck also didn't have the little heater vents on the outer edges that my truck is set up for, so just today I cut those holes out. Now I need to find some sort of dash pad stop-tear (crack, actually) since it's so brittle after 25 or whatever years. I do have some photos...but aside from being a pain in the a@* and fragile stuff, it's fairly obvious what needs to be done when you compare them. It's just a matter of really comparing and measuring and thinking before you cut (wish I'd taken my own advice on that), and taking your time on the cutting, since it can get ugly real quick if you don't.

Sorry, didn't mean for this to be a dissertation but I'm in the process of dealing with it right now so it's all fresh and frustratingly clear in my head at the moment.

Oh yeah, and I'll post about the L52HD. Pricey, but it was that or some more serious modifications to put in a newer model transmission, since the first gen 5speeds were pretty weak. That's why I went with the HD. Only a little over $100 more than a regular rebuilt L52, and it doesn't seem too uncommon to hear of the original L52's starting to go out after only 60,000 or so miles. No good on a Toyota. I did consider going with a used 4 speed like yours to save myself a TON of money, but this truck's going to be on the interstate a good amount, so 5th would sure be nice!

scottd · 07-21-2008, 02:15 PM

Thanks for the info on the dash - good to know. I think you made the right choice with the transmission - I hate the 4 speed. By the way, there is lots of good info in this thread. Your truck is going to be nice when you get it all back together!

83 · 07-21-2008, 03:02 PM

No problem. If you actually do it and have questions let me know. I didn't do a great job on mine, I'm certainly no expert, but having done it I can at least maybe help you with what not to do..

Thanks, I think I'll have a pretty nice truck at the end of it all, too. It sucked when the deeper I went into the engine, the more I found that was wrong, but hey, debt is the American way, and really, even though it's not what I had in mind when I bought the truck, I'll take a rebuilt 25 year old truck over a brand new truck just about any day, and for thousands of dollars cheaper, too. I think I'll have a $4,000 truck, when all's said and done, when I'm honest and include things like the couple hundred I just spent at the dealership getting gaskets & tune-up stuff, and the almost $100 at the auto store for just a bunch of hoses and fuel filter....new shocks...

It's bad. You start thinking "well what's the point of new engine & transmission and clutch if the shocks are broken & worn and the front suspension bushings are cracking and the interiors all worn out...."

etc.

foot0069 · 07-21-2008, 03:47 PM

Here's a posting about cleaning the block head bolt holes. Please spend a little time on this step. Looks as though you are going to be really pleased when you get this truck up and running. Congrats on doing it yourself.
Jim

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/headbolt-dilema-113434/

Red_Chili · 07-21-2008, 04:54 PM

Yep, you're gonna take some pride in that. Good call on the tranny. Mine lasted well over 100K + in my '82. FWIW. But it ain't as strong as a Marlinized one.

83 · 07-22-2008, 06:59 AM

Thanks a lot guys. I'm getting pretty exicted. I should be driving it in 2-3 weeks!!

Yeah, I guess mine lasted 166,000, but still...

07-07-2008, 12:32 PM	#76 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	By all means use a stand. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive one. It will be infinitely easier to work on out of the truck. There are hoist points that should be bolted on to the head, one forward/passenger, one rearward/driver. A chain goes between, and the hoist hooks to the chain. Look inside the intake plenum; if it is black and nasty, take it to a NAPA or auto parts place and have it dipped. If it is clean, no worries. The engine stand uses the bolts that bolt on the bellhousing. You may need to stack a bunch of washers to make up the bolt length difference. I did my short block on the bench, then put it on the stand (I had sons to help lift). If you are doing it by yourself, just put the block on the stand and start there. It's really nice to be able to rotate the motor around as you install the bits. __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page

07-07-2008, 12:34 PM	#77 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	And just a note for when you get there: after you reassemble the motor and drive about 100 miles, you should retorque the head bolts. Things seat. If it were me, I would change the oil and filter at that time. YMMV. __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page

07-11-2008, 12:45 PM	#81 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Well, the cam came as part of the rebuild kit the machine shop ordered. I talked to Ted, he thinks my timing chain is fine, but didn't like the cam. I'm probably getting the head rebuilt too...but not sure yet. So, if I do replace the cam should I rebuild the head, or what? I guess the machine shop could tell me whether the head needs a rebuild or not, but is it unwise to just add a new cam? Can I rebuild the head with it on the engine or do I need to remove it? I'm just thinking that this truck was obviously pretty heavily abused, so it may not be a bad idea to get at it all while it's in pieces, but if I can rebuild the head at a later date without taking it off the engine.... Are you saying use 30w oil, not assembly lube? What's wrong with the lube? So if I rebuild the head, it's the rockers and steel pad that must come from Toyota? Last edited by 83 : 07-11-2008 at 12:47 PM.

07-11-2008, 12:53 PM	#82 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	Cam with a rebuild kit. Strange. If your existing cam is good, you can actually create more problems by replacing it (mismatched wear between new cam and old rockers). If you replace the cam, you must make sure the rockers are a) very smooth, or b) new. Mine fit a) for some reason, I think the person may have either put in a higher performance cam with new rockers, or something else led to new rockers. They sure didn't look like they had 150K on them. And it was not due to extraordinarily good care! You cannot rebuild the head with it on the block. You need to pull the valves, replace the guides, grind the seats & valves, replace the seals, and reassemble. Nothing wrong with assembly lube. Just not necessary. I used it when rebuilding my transmission and was sorry (lubed too well, synchros slipped till it washed out, but that does not affect your situation). The rockers and steel pads are a single assembly (each rocker has a steel pad affixed) and yeah, they should only come from Toyota. Ted can resurface rockers if you ask real nice. Not many can. __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page Last edited by Red_Chili : 07-11-2008 at 12:55 PM.

07-11-2008, 02:14 PM	#84 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	Talk to Ted on the rocker thing. I am only parroting him. You're welcome, Zach! I too hate going it alone. __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page

07-07-2008, 01:29 PM	#78 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Great, thanks. I'm guessing the questions will REALLY start again once I start reassembly..

07-08-2008, 08:00 AM	#79 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Ok.....I finally opened up the rebuild kit yesterday. I'm a little concerned. USA made stuff, plastic timing guides. Now I know Toyota uses the plastic guides now, so it isn't necessarily crap, but it does have me worried. Are there brands that are known to be good, and ones that are known to be bad? I'm not so worried about the gaskets (or should I be?) or other stuff, I'm mostly worried about the chain, camshaft, and stuff like that. Is an assembly lube fine for engine parts assembly? Now I'm getting out of engine stuff, but last night I worked on getting the rear driveshaft off. I took the four bolts off the transmission end of it, but couldn't get it off. Does it just take some hammering, or am I missing something?

07-11-2008, 01:38 PM	#83 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Ok thanks. It looks like if I do the head, I'll have the machine shop do it. They said $300-350, but that's with their parts, not Toyotas...I'll check it out. I guess it is curious that they included a cam, but nothing else for the head................wonder what the deal is with that. Any info you've got like the rocker thing, I need. It was a local-independant- Subaru-repair-shop-owner who pointed me towards this shop. The Toyota dealership machine shop people rubbed me the wrong way.... I asked the Subaru guy, since this machine shop seemed to mostly work on domestics, if they would be good for my Toyota and he said yes, they're the best in town. But talking to them on the phone and in person when I get this info from you guys they do seem geniunely interested, like "let us know, because possibly this is something we should be doing differently with Toyota engines". So I think they're open to learning what to do and what not to do, so......I'll need good info. By the way Bill, I'm Zach. Thanks for all the help.

07-18-2008, 07:01 AM	#85 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	So how is your project going? My motor is back in the truck and I am fighting for time to finish all the bits. I had to weld & reinforce the 2 into 1 collector back together (like I had to on my son's truck, seems like a weak point). My alternator plug grenaded upon removal, but the local boneyard had a complete alternator harness for $15, so that is fixed. I elected to block the EGR to keep the intake cleaner and make a tiny bit more power. __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page

07-18-2008, 07:23 AM	#86 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Slowly, but well. My transmission should be on the way soon....engine is at the machine shop having the head rebuilt. Should be done next week. They definitely put me at ease when I brought up all my concerns. They definitely know what they are doing and are willing to take pointers from (or more like humor) someone who obviously has no idea what he's talking about but has done a lot of research... I've just been cleaning things up and working on the interior lately, trying to get an '82 dash to fit my '83...harder than I would have thought..hopefully there will be something somewhat nice to look at once I'm done cutting & glueing... It's pretty cool to think I'll be driving it before the warm weather's gone. 2 to 1 collector? Is there also no emissions testing in Co? We don't even have inspections in Montana... I didn't have anything fall apart on me..........yet, luckily. Other than the clutch pretty much disintigrating when I took it off, but I expected that. Anyway, I've got an engine stand and hopefully everything will go smoothly. I'm sure I'll have some more questions soon, but right now it's just waiting. Update: Transmission is done and going out in today or Mondays mail!!!!!!! Now that's exciting. Marlin L52HD. I'll be paying it off for probably a year, but hopefully driving it for 20. Last edited by 83 : 07-18-2008 at 09:12 AM.

07-18-2008, 11:56 AM	#87 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	Very cool! Yep, Colorado most definitely has emissions in the front range. The EGR will not affect them though. The 2-1 collector is the part that bolts onto the manifold. On the 22RE and IIRC yours, the manifold has two outlets, which merge in the beginning of the exhaust. FWIW, that is where NWOR and Downey and others got their Tri-Y header design. Toyota's stock manifold is a Tri-Y (two pairs of cylinders' exhaust combine, then the resulting two paths combine into one). From what I have read, pretty darn efficient, too. Crude ASCII art (dots instead of spaces which get stripped out by the BB software): \/ \/ ..\/ ...\| __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page Last edited by Red_Chili : 07-18-2008 at 11:59 AM.

07-18-2008, 12:07 PM	#88 (permalink)
scottd Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 32	What exactly are you doing with the dash? Replacing the dash pad? Replacing the plastic climate control / radio bezel? What's different between the '82 and '83? My '79 is missing the climate control / radio bezel so it would be good to know what the differences are in case I every run across a replacement. I would also be interested to hear how you like the Marlin L52HD as I may go this route eventually (I have the 4-speed now ). __________________ 79 longbed 4x4 03 4-Runner 4x4 (DD)

07-18-2008, 12:49 PM	#89 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Ah, gotcha. My rebuild kit came with two metal gaskets that go between the manifold & exaust pipes...do you just pry the old ones out? I can't get them out..maybe I'll just leave the old ones in. Toyota did (and does) have some good ideas. I'm replacing the dash pad, heater control/radio bezel, instrument cluster.... The biggest thing is that in '83 they switched the connections on the instrument cluster. An '82 or ealier cluster will not plug in to an '83 pickup. In '83 they switched to what the next body style plug-ins were like, even though the '83 is still a Gen 1 body style. Otherwise, my biggest issue has been that the fake wood bezel came with SR5 models, which often (always?) had AC, and a different layout, so I had to cut that part out of the bezel (losing precious fake wood!!). Then I had to cut that part out of my old dash, since the heater controls on mine screw into the bezel, and glue it in to where I cut the other one out. Hope I explained that ok...otherwise the screw holes all line up & all that. Just be prepared if you're going from an SR5 to a non like me, you'll run into that. The actual year may not make a difference (as long as it's 79-83), but the SR5/non-SR5 does. The dash pad from the donor truck also didn't have the little heater vents on the outer edges that my truck is set up for, so just today I cut those holes out. Now I need to find some sort of dash pad stop-tear (crack, actually) since it's so brittle after 25 or whatever years. I do have some photos...but aside from being a pain in the a@* and fragile stuff, it's fairly obvious what needs to be done when you compare them. It's just a matter of really comparing and measuring and thinking before you cut (wish I'd taken my own advice on that), and taking your time on the cutting, since it can get ugly real quick if you don't. Sorry, didn't mean for this to be a dissertation but I'm in the process of dealing with it right now so it's all fresh and frustratingly clear in my head at the moment. Oh yeah, and I'll post about the L52HD. Pricey, but it was that or some more serious modifications to put in a newer model transmission, since the first gen 5speeds were pretty weak. That's why I went with the HD. Only a little over $100 more than a regular rebuilt L52, and it doesn't seem too uncommon to hear of the original L52's starting to go out after only 60,000 or so miles. No good on a Toyota. I did consider going with a used 4 speed like yours to save myself a TON of money, but this truck's going to be on the interstate a good amount, so 5th would sure be nice! Last edited by 83 : 07-18-2008 at 01:04 PM.

07-21-2008, 02:15 PM	#90 (permalink)
scottd Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 32	Thanks for the info on the dash - good to know. I think you made the right choice with the transmission - I hate the 4 speed. By the way, there is lots of good info in this thread. Your truck is going to be nice when you get it all back together! __________________ 79 longbed 4x4 03 4-Runner 4x4 (DD)

07-21-2008, 03:02 PM	#91 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	No problem. If you actually do it and have questions let me know. I didn't do a great job on mine, I'm certainly no expert, but having done it I can at least maybe help you with what not to do.. Thanks, I think I'll have a pretty nice truck at the end of it all, too. It sucked when the deeper I went into the engine, the more I found that was wrong, but hey, debt is the American way, and really, even though it's not what I had in mind when I bought the truck, I'll take a rebuilt 25 year old truck over a brand new truck just about any day, and for thousands of dollars cheaper, too. I think I'll have a $4,000 truck, when all's said and done, when I'm honest and include things like the couple hundred I just spent at the dealership getting gaskets & tune-up stuff, and the almost $100 at the auto store for just a bunch of hoses and fuel filter....new shocks... It's bad. You start thinking "well what's the point of new engine & transmission and clutch if the shocks are broken & worn and the front suspension bushings are cracking and the interiors all worn out...." etc. __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed

07-21-2008, 03:47 PM	#92 (permalink)
foot0069 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Petersburg va. Posts: 282	Here's a posting about cleaning the block head bolt holes. Please spend a little time on this step. Looks as though you are going to be really pleased when you get this truck up and running. Congrats on doing it yourself. Jim http://www.yotatech.com/f116/headbolt-dilema-113434/

07-21-2008, 04:54 PM	#93 (permalink)
Red_Chili Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Littleton, CO Posts: 282	Yep, you're gonna take some pride in that. Good call on the tranny. Mine lasted well over 100K + in my '82. FWIW. But it ain't as strong as a Marlinized one. __________________ -Bill Red Chili II: 1987 SASed 5VZ-FE 4Runner with more stuff than I can afford. Not that that makes me unique 'round here. Shadowfax: 1993 minitruck. Getting the Engnbldr full meal deal. Hunting truck and DD! Bio Page

07-22-2008, 06:59 AM	#94 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 478	Thanks a lot guys. I'm getting pretty exicted. I should be driving it in 2-3 weeks!! Yeah, I guess mine lasted 166,000, but still... __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed Last edited by 83 : 07-22-2008 at 07:05 AM.