Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Slave Cylinder question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-10-2011, 05:29 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
robertm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Byram MS
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Slave Cylinder question

My clutch quit working. I posted that last night.
81 Toyota 2wd 22r 4 speed manual trans....

This afternoon, wife pushed clutch pedal before I replaced the slave cylinder. The rod didn't move. I'm assuming by that it tells me the something is wrong with the slave cylinder or before it gets to that. (line or master cylinder).

I had already bought a slave cylinder at Advance auto parts this afternoon. I took off the current slave cylinder. Noticed that it would move in and out with no pressure or resistance. The new one was very tight and wouldn't move. I assumed from this that the old slave cylinder was bad.

Put on the new slave cyl and from following directions in package, I left the bleeder valve tight, removed the master cylinder cap, and pumped the clutch probably 40 times. It never changed...never got any tighter or felt any different, also the level in the reservior didn't change. Hmm, I wondered if something had gotten crimped and it wasn't getting fluid. Loosened the bleeder valve, wife pumped the clutch and fluid is definately squirting through when its pumped and open. Tightened it back up and tried again. Still no different results.

Is there something else I need to do to try to bleed this? Or was the new slave cylinder they sold me bad? I assume the master cylinder is doing its job because again, it was pumping fluid when the clutch pedal was pressed.

Should the new slave cylinder have moved effortlessly? or should it have been very tight and difficult to move..... Suggestions are appreciated.

I'm through with it for the night, and I did remove the master cylinder cap. It kinda makes sense that if there is air in the line, it would work its way to the top and out over time if there is no cap on it.

thanks again,
Robert
Old 11-10-2011, 05:43 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
93toyrunner2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The fluid will gravity bleed and run out before you know it. Let it bleed with gravity while keeping an eye on the master fill level. Once fluid has started coming through the bleeder valve for a few minutes, close the bleeder valve. pump pedal 3-4 times and hold down, and slightly open bleeder valve to allow fluid / air to pass through. Once you have closed the valve, then pump 3-4 times and repeat. Do this process 2-3 times, and then top off master cylinder fluid. Keep doing this process, opening the bleeder valve slightly each time, until there is no more air coming through, and the pedal has some resistance to it. You will start seeing the slave pin pushing the shift fork in and out as you are doing this.
If no fluid comes through, there is probably air in the lines. You can fix this by bleeding at each line connector, using a line wrench to open and close at each junction until fluid starts flowing at each connection. Start with the line connection at the master cylinder, working your way along the entire length of the line to the slave.
Old 11-10-2011, 07:31 PM
  #3  
Registered User
 
clark-camp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
When you opened the bleeder valve and fluid came out, did air come out too? You can't have any air in the system. When the bleeder valve is open, if you take your foot off the clutch pedal, the system will suck in air. Plus, air will be in the system from replacing the slave.

To bleed the system, you gotta: 1. depress the pedal 2. Open the valve to let the air/fluid mixture out 3. Close valve 4. Take foot off pedal. 5. Repeat until no more air is coming out.

You need a section of clear tubing that will fit onto the nipple of the bleeder valve. The other end of the tube goes into a container with fluid so that you don't suck any air in. You will see the bubbles in the tube as you bleed the system. Also, make sure you keep an eye on the fluid resivoir. If you let it get empty while bleeding, you gotta start all over again.

What condition is the fluid in? Now might be a good time to flush the old stuff out.

The new slave cylinder should have resistance But not be impossible to depress by hand when it isn't connected to the system

Last edited by clark-camp; 11-10-2011 at 07:35 PM.
Old 11-11-2011, 05:50 PM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
robertm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Byram MS
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for everyone's help. Turns out the master cylinder was bad. I guess the master cylinder was the problem all along, but now the master and slave have been replaced. Hopefully I'll have no more issues for a while. thanks again!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
colasurdo
Newbie Tech Section
2
05-14-2022 07:21 AM
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
09-04-2015 09:27 AM
256mbaker
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
2
07-31-2015 06:45 PM
mYnAmEiSmUd
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
2
07-20-2015 06:48 AM



Quick Reply: Slave Cylinder question



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:18 PM.