craftsmanracer

iTrader: (1)

ok so here is the new flange next to the old one

Here it is in the truck!


ALOT more clearance


only problem now is the other side

I'll do the whole take it apart thing and clearance it, then hopefully I will have enough flex in everything to be good.

Also taking out a leaf in the front will lower me 1/4", that should help some.



I'll get a manual brake bias adjuster to help my brake diving situation also.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Taking apart that double cardan is no easy task at all. It was definitely the most difficult joint that I have ever had to separate. If you do end up pressing out those u-joints, I would make sure that you get some new ones to replace them. And just in case you didn't know, the two u-joints in the double cardan ARE NOT the same as the single u-joint near the diff. You will also want to get a new centering bearing since you will probably lose half the needle bearings in the existing one when you take it apart. Moog makes the centering bearing and there are two different inside diameters so you may need to take it apart to measure it - Let me know if you need the part numbers and I can dig up the receipts for you.

craftsmanracer

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I did an axle cut/turn, along with a 2 degree shim, so my angles are pretty good on the front driveshaft.

There is one concern though.

The slip action on the driveshaft is pretty hard to slip. I think maybe the massive heat I used to weld it may have slightly warped the splines or something.

The driveshaft will separate, but only with coersion from a 10lb hammer. And it takes alot of blows.

When the shaft is in the truck, I can feel it separate and return. The force necessary to slide it makes a noticeable jolt/bump when the truck raises up after braking.

This is probably not great for my pinion/t case am I correct?



I might have to just make a square shaft, I am so sick of screwing with this crap.

driveshafter

sounds to me like the slip n stub are bad the clunk you here is most likly the stub and yoke arching in the worn spot