Hey all,

First of all, very nice site you have here. I'm already blown away and lost in information......

Now for the questions....

I have an opportunity to get a 1996 4Runner SR5 with 140k miles, for about $500. Everything is in great shape except that the engine died, and the owner things it is seized and locked (but it does rotate slightly with a wrench). I live in Colorado and would be turning this truck into an offroad vehicle for Colorado and Utah.

I need advice, if anybody knows, on whether I have to put the same (rebuilt) V6 back or does a smallblock V8 (or some other more powerfull engine) fit???

What is the least expensive way to get this thing running reliably? I know this is a difficult question when nobody knows what is wrong... Let's assume the engine needs to be replaced... is the cheapest way just putting the same one back in - or is there a better idea?

Lastly, does anyone know of a reliable (INEXPENSIVE) engine rebuilding in the Denver area I could bring this too? I don't have too much cash to be throwing at would mostly be a "toy" - if you know what i mean...

Thanks in advance for your help!!!!

g

 

I personally would snag a good low mileage engine from a wrecking yard (or similar) and drop it in. Is the tranny good? That's something else to think about. That's what I would do.

Welcome to YT.

 

Thank's for the info... and the welcome...

It's a 5-speed and I believe the tranny is fine. One more question for you - How do i know if it has a limited slip rear diff?

 

the cheapest and most painless way is to drop in an exact replacement motor. replace all sorts of seal while youre at it.

 

As far I know none of the 3-rd generation 4Runners (sold in USA) had limited slip from factory. However, they did have e-locker as an option. And it is a big + if the one you are thinking about has it.

I also would recommend putting same engine in, especially if you trying to save $ and have a reliable truck.
3.4 L proved to be extremely reliable IMO.

 

no limited slip on the runners, it came with an optional elocker from the factory. on the dash there will be a button that says rr diff lock. thats what you want.

but for that price you could drop in a new engine and a rear locker for less than you could get a 2nd gen for!!!

 

Thanks all for the info. I read somewhere that the toyota's were known for getting a sludge build up in the engine, and that somehow blocks the oil, and would cause it to throw a rod. I also saw that toyota was sometimes warrantying this issue, even after the warranty period... anybody have any info on this or know what it's about?

again... thanks for your info. Can't wait to get home and look for that electronic locker - but i doubt I have one...

 

theres only one block that know of is 5S-FE, from 97-01 camry. A friend of mine got his 97 camry rebuilt due to that, and quite a few ppl online have the same symptom.

 

Welcome to YotaTech .... i would get a good used 3.4L as every thing well bolt back up and no money wasted on extra parts also the e-locker is nice but i dont use mine as i dont wheel it at all

 

Check out www.supracharged.com The guy is in Utah and specializes in Toyota engine swaps. Even if you don't go through him, I'm sure you'd get some good ideas from him. A V8 in that thing would be sweet.

 

Thanks again for all the info. Not sure if i put a used engine in, with labor for 2k, or a remanufactured for 3400. What am i looking at for front and rear lockers price wise - i checked and i don't have an e-locker.

Also, what are sliders running for about? I saw that some guys are running 6 inch lifts. I thought that anything over 3 would destroy the CV joints??? how are they getting away with this without swapping for a solid axle?

thanks gain.. just trying to figure out what my costs are going to be to get this thing trail worthy!

 

An ARB locker setup would be around 2,500-3,000. You could get away with a Detroit Tru-Trac in front and an e-locker(Toyota) in the rear for around 1,000 to 1,500 assuming you got a working locker from the JY. Sliders do just that...they protect your rocker panels and slide over rocks and extreme break-over angles. They can either weld(what I have) or bolt on to the frame. As for 6" lifts these are usually from TrailMaster and use drop brackets to lower the CV's. Yes, you are right generally anything over 2.0" will give your CV's grief, especially if you really flog it. Honestly, I'd say 7,000 to have a sweet, comfortable, RELIABLE, trail rig that could do Moab, Red Cone and back to CO.

 

or let me know, and I'll buy it! Welcome to yotatech, and be on the lookout for me, driving like the usual ass that I am. Just Kidding. If you need any pointers, let me know. Where in CO are you??
Brett

 

lol .... I'm just across the highway.... (I-25). In Thornton.... please - no thornton jokes.... I've heard em all. I have a few buddies that live in Broomfield. I'm there all the time... I play ice hockey at promenade.

gary

 

Thanks John,

7K - .... Ouch. So if I put a 6 inch suspension on it with the brackets... am i going to destroy anything or have any problems???

gary

 

Im actually over by the flatirons mall, but work/grew up in Broomfield. Give me a honk/wave if you see me tooling around. So, did you buy the truck or not?
Brett

 

"Thanks John,

7K - .... Ouch. So if I put a 6 inch suspension on it with the brackets... am i going to destroy anything or have any problems???

gary"

No, you won't ruin anything although for the amount of work and money spent on a bracket type lift I think you are better off going one of two directions.
1- www.sonoransteel.com Put together a spacer/suspension lift that utilizes factory components and is very effective for fitting a larger tire and delivering exceptional on and off highway performance. This will lift you approximatley 2.0"-3.5" These lifts consist of new coils, shocks and a 3/8" spacer. A Body Lift can also be added to clear 33-35" tires. www.4crawler.com has a great kit.

2- A SAS or SAC (solid axle swap/conversion) Also done by www.sonoransteel.com or a experienced local fabricator. The body lift can be used in virtually any suspension lift.

The popularity of option #1 is well documented on YT. At some point I plan to do option #2 but for the interium I don't think any other setup comes close to the Tundra front coils and the Land Cruiser Rears for comfort, reliability, load carrying and wheelability. Be sure to read the info at www.sonoransteel.com so when you search here you'll know what setups people have.
The bracket lifts are not too popular as I can only think of two Runners on here with them, that being said I don't have any experience with them. You might PM SC4Runner. He's got the 6 incher. If all you want is the height then that may be the way to go but I think he has the brackets in conjuction with option #1.

 

Wow - thanks for all the info. Now i just need the funds to get this thing running, lifted and locked.....

Hey Brett,
I have a buddy over by the mall.... up the road from the landrover dealer. He's got two 4Runners sitting in the driveway, a black one and a green one....

I did not buy the truck yet - but it's sitting in my garage. My friend just wanted it out of his... I'm still looking at what this is all going to cost me before i pull the trigger. I already have a semi lifted Tahoe Z71 (is that a curse word on this board ;-) ), and am still trying to justify another SUV..

 

Welcome to yotatech

If you get the 4runner and you need some help with getting it running let me know. I know of a couple of motors up in Ft. Collins. If you don't end up buying it let me know.

 

Thanks,

Buying it depends on the deals i could work out to get her running. PM me if you have insight on some engines and know of costs. Right now i'm at about 2k installed for a used (117k miles) prerunner engine that would work. I'm not far from Fort Collins at all. Hell, I might buy this thing just cause this forum is so much fun and i'd like to hit the trails with some of you guys ;-).