Headgasket finally gave way on my 90 Runner, got the stuff from EB to do it. Head Kit, and new bolts. I've just about got it all torn, just have to finish removing the intake and the heads should be ready to come off.

I have a new timing belt to put on, waterpump looks like it was just replaced. Everything under my timing cover has alot of dust and soot on it (typical) but the waterpump is brand new shiny aluminum, and has some good resistance to it. Thats staying in there then. I also should replace the t-stat while I'm at. I'm thinking of going with a 180 rather then the stock 195 will I have any problems with this? Will it screw with the ECU readings, or will it be ok? Reason I want to go to a 180 is I do alot of slow driving in hot heat in the summer and I'm thinkin a 180 would be a good idea.

Anything else I should check out or possibly replace while I'm down this far? Will I need to remove the crankshaft pulley to get the new timing belt back on?

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

get it ported and polished, it surely couldn't hurt...

 

It's a good idea to replace the knock sensor wire, it's under the intake manifold, and replacing it now could save you a lot of work later.

And you'll have to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the timing belt, you can't get the lower cover off otherwise.

 

have your injectors rebuilt... worth the $80

 

Thanks fellas! I really appreciate it... I'm on a pretty strict budget at the moment, but I think I can get some headwork done. We'll see... the machineshop quoted me $75 to resurface the heads, and get all the carbon out and clean them up real good.

I'd like to injectors cleaned but I think I'm going to wait on that. Getting those out wont be to hard in the future.


Anyone see a problem running a 180 thermostat?

 

You could also do the water pump as well.

 

if you have the cash now would be a good time to put headers on

 

I second that.

 

An OEM t-stat is your best bet.

 

you cant get to the injectors without pulling the upper plenum and fuel rail off again.

its a roal pita and youd spend hrs doing it AGAIN in the future.

do it now and save the headache latter.


oh and third that on the headers

 

I'd love to do headers right now... I was cursing toyota pretty good lastnight trying to unbolt that damn crossover pipe.

The waterpump on that is brandnew, and it looks like the headgaskets were recently replaced on it, when I got the lower intake off the heads were nice and shiny aluminum and the block was pretty dirty, the timing belt must've been replaced the sametime as well which must've been just right before I bought it, the belt looks brand spanken new.

Of all things I wish I had the money was headers though, I'd love to put a set of headers on but I do not have the money for the headers, nor to get the exhaust finished after that.

 

cut and paste from CascadeCrawlers.com

Got the heads off and sent down to the machine shop. My head gasket didn't give away in the typical spot which is the driver side rearmost cylinder where the crossover pipe gets close to the head. Although the gasket was heat checked pretty good there. The passenger front most cylinder is where the gasket gave out. What caused it to give out was electrolosis in the cooling system. It pitted away at away where water doesn't flow through the head and block, just the head, and pitted the block, thats where it gave out. I don't have the money to get the block decked, I talked to the guy at the machineshop, and he says its not uncommon and the very best I could do is to have it resurfaced, but he said if I get some 3m scotchbrite pads, and give the surface a good cleaning, and when I put the new gasket on to apply sealer to that specific spot and it should be fine for the life of the engine.

So I'll be putting red antifreeze in it, instead of the green. The red prevents electrolisis in the cooling system, I'm also going to change my 82' yota to the red stuff also. I've heard of electrolisis in engines with aluminum heads and cast iron blocks, but ignored cause I've never heard of anyone having any problem what so ever. Well if I would have had red antifreeze in my 4Runner it'd still be on the road just fine!

So us folks with aluminum heads and cast iron, I now recommend RED instead of GREEN Antifreeze!

 

Weasky2sk's cams (you NEED these!) Iirc they gave 38hp/49tq gain and give you a hell of a boost on low end power and giving you a LOT more on top end too! (About a hair more output than a current production 4.3L)

1mm oversized exhuast valves from engine builder
Port and Polish
Headers
Engine Builder's new Head Bolts for our engine
and obviously the new steel slipper plate HG's...

Doing that stuff should REALLY wake up the 3vze...

 

Damn that sounds nice... unfortunently I don't have enough "George Washington's" to do that right now, although the cams are fairly easy to get to, so in the future that sounds like something I'll be doing, as far as the cams are concerned. Although I might just opt for an engine swap instead. Who knows!?

 

I'm about to start the same project here with in a week or two. Chuki, i was wondering if you could give me the link to order the EB head kit and bolts. Thanks.

 

engnbldr.com

Tell him Chuki(nick) or Jess(real) from CascadeCrawlers.com sent ya!

Order headbolts from him while your at it!

 

What brand of cam is that? I did a search on weasky2sk and there was nothing. HELP! HELP! HELP! And when ordering the new head bolts, where do I order the steel slipper plate HG from?
Aloha,
Mike

 

engnbldr.com for the headgasket.

 

Weasy did a lot of work for these 262 cams...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...4&page=2&pp=40

As far as the HG's, I could be wrong, but I thought EB had em...either that or that's what the new toyota OEM HG's are... I just remember reading about them here and being waaaay superior to what toyota had been using.

 

Thats what EB sells, and I beleive thats what the new OEM ares also... I can't remember where but I remember reading something that the actual OEM gaskets are made by Rockauto