Ok, so I've been trying to get my timing right forever. Can't get the dang notch lined up at 5 degrees. (Yes I jumped the diag ports)

Did the TPS adjust thing, got it all in range. Timing still messed up.

Soooo, I figured maybe the distributor was off or something. Honestly, I messed with the distributor without FULLY knowing what the heck to do. I think I have the distributor off a tooth.

I took the dist off and pointed the rotor to the #1 plug thing. Of course, I forgot the detail of having the crank notch at TDC! ARrrrgh.

So, now the dang thing won't start. I've been working in darkness for the last few hours and finally said screw it. When trying to start it, I heard backfiring or something. Could I have screwed something up bad trying to start the engine like that, keep turning it over?

Now, I haven't tried moving the distributor one tooth at a time yet. I figured I'd ask you all b4 I did that.

Besides just cranking the engine over and over to get the notch to line up at TDC, is there an easier way? Can you turn it another way without taking anything off?

Please someone tell me I didn't screw my engine up by cranking it a tooth off. I don't get any clanking or anything when turning it over...it just won't start.

 

You have to make sure the crank is lined up on tdc on the compression stroke. You may be 180* out. If you aren't sure, pull the #1 spark plug. Stick you finger in the hole and have someone turn the engine past tdc, if you feel a blast of air go past your finger, you are on the compression stroke. If not, you'll need to rotate the crank another 360*.

You can rotate the crank with a wrench. Take a look at your dist when you pull it out. It has a groove on the shaft and a notch on the gear. There is a groove on the camshaft bearing cap (where the dist plugs back in). Line 'em all up when re-inserting (make sure you're at tdc compression stroke first though).

 

Ok, thanks...

So, is all I have to do to line the crankshaft to tdc is line the notch up to the 0? Or 5? I can do that by just sticking a wrench down there and turning it, with the tranny in neutral? Which way to I turn it?

Then I point the rotor straight up, right? What do you mean by the notch on the distributor? There's a notch on the shaft? What do I line it up with?

I know there's a lot of questions here...lol..

From the manuals it looks simple enough...I'm just having a wild time trying to figure out how to line the notch up TDC.

 

-Always rotate the engine clockwise.

- For a single cylinder to go through it's complete cycle, the crank must turn twice (720*). It will pass tdc twice. Only one of those passes is suitable for setting the timing. That is the compression stroke. Refer to my first post for instructions on figuring out if that's where you are.

-Set at TDC (not 5*)

-Examine your dist. there is a notch (on the gear) and a groove on the housing (or shaft.. can't remeber which). Line them up. there is also a groove on the camshaft bearing cap (where you insert the dist). Line it up with the notch and groove you've already lined up on the dist. THAT is how you make sure the rotor is pointing where it needs to be.

-I hope we are talking about the same engine...(3.0)??

 

No, I have a 22RE...sorry about not mentioning that. But everything you said seems to line up with what the FSM says. So, I'm going to try it tomorrow.

Is it possible to screw up the camshaft with what I did. I thought that I heard a clunk sound one time when I was turning it over...but not the last few times...it sounds normal when turning over (just won't start). Just that one time freaked me out when I heard it.

 

 

Why not do a comprression test on #1? When it's high,,that should be compression. Then you can see how close to 0 you are on the crank pulley/timing mark scale.

Someone shoot me. I'll stand corrected.

Mike in AR

 

Saint_Berzerker, everytime that crankshaft turns over one complete revolution the cam makes 2 revolutions. So it is possible to have the crank on TDC Top Dead Center and still have the cam in the wrong position for setting the distributor. Personally I think the easiest way for you at this point is to pull the #1 spark plug and the coil wire to the distributor. Then have someone crank the engine over while you place your finger in the #1 plug hole to feel for the compression stroke. The assistant should be just bumping the ignition switch so the engine only cranks a little at a time. (Not cranking it around and around in full revolutions.) You will know the #1 compression stroke by the pressure it generates against your finger and you really won't be able to keep your finger on the hole if the engines in decent shape. Right after you feel the compression stroke tell them to STOP CRANKING ...you will need to boot the assistant outta the seat and pull the key for safety sake. Then you will probably have to back the crankshaft up (turn engine backwards manually) to the tdc mark since it was more then likely passed up as the compression stroke on #1 was reached and you felt it with your finga.
Then set your distributor to the #1 position as indicated by the distributor cap.
I liike to place the cap on the distributor...then make a magic marker mark on the distributor housing right below the #1 dist cap tower. then remove the cap and install the dist so the rotor points slightly to the left of the mark.
Hope this is helpful. Good luck!

 

LMAO!

 

Well, no luck yet. I've aligned the notches on the distributor gear and shaft and put it in the engine, causing the rotor to point to about 10-11 o clock (#1 spark).

I've turned the crankshaft to align the notch at 0*....turned the key....nothing. So, I turned the crank another 360*...lined the rotor up again...turned the key...nothing. I dunno what I'm missing. I'm doing exactly what the FSM, the Haynes manual, and what everybody on here is saying...except doing the sparkplug removal thing, because I don't have anybody to turn the key for me.

I know this has to be the problem , because it started fine before I took the distributor out.

All the dang manuals tell you how to put the dist back in AFTER you marked the old dist....but they don't say a dang thing about how to put it back on if you DID NOT mark the dang thing to begin with! There's gotta be a way to do this...lol

 

Ok, here's a "clue" if it is relevant...maybe this will help somebody figure out what's going on.

I align the crank notch at 0*, then align the rotor at #1 spark, try to start it..nothing.

Then, before I look at the rotor position, I align the notch at the crank at 0* again...then look to see where the rotor points, and it's always pointing at the #4 spark, or about 4-5 o'clock.

So, I align the rotor again..with the notch at 0*...still try to start it again...nothing...same results. I've even cranked the dang crank pulley another 360*, aligned the rotor....same thing...so I dunno...Help!

 

well...I rotated the distributor 1 tooth at a time around the freakin clock...nothing...still won't start up

 

Well...I gave up. Calling the engine place tomorrow.

 

Update...I got the bastard to start! what a relief!

I just kept cranking it and finally it started.....

It idles and runs like crap, so I'm assuming I have the distributor in the ballpark, but not quite where it should be. Am I correct here?

 

It sounds like I'm a little late chiming in but I found it easiest to align and install the distributor with the rocker cover removed. Turn the crank with a ratchet until the dot on the pulley points at zero and make sure the mark on the camshaft pulley is pointing straight up.

On my 1993, there is a small dot on the distributor. This happens to be where the number one plug is. Install so that is lined up with the rotor when the distributor is right in the middle of its adjsutment range. If everything is OK, it should start and run.

Now let it warm up past the high idle point. Adjust the distributor until it sounds like it is at normal idle. Then hit it with the light. That's how I did mine and it ended up right where it was suposed to be.

While you have the cover off. Shine a light inside and inspect your timing chain. See if the guide is worn or the gear/chain is damaged. It is possible that it jumped a tooth. Not likely but possible. They usually break.

Good luck.

 

Thanks maxpower....I had the rocker cover off, but couldn't figure anything out that way at the time.

Seems like I had hit TDC a bunch of times, I just wasn't cranking the engine enough with the ignition for it to start. Like I said above, I just kept cranking it over and finally it started....lol...I knew I had it right, it just wasn't working...but finally did.

 

Well...I did it again....dumb&!*

I was farting w/ the timing again and it was WAY off...for no reason...so, I pulled the dist cap off and put the crank at TDC...the dang rotor was WAY off where it shoulda been...

...so, genious me decided to line the distributor/rotor up with the #1 plug. And whatta ya know....same dang problem I had before...won't start. And so, I've went through the whole thing again...hours upon hours of NOTHING!

Doesn't make sense to me...

 

Well...an update....(as if anyone cares)

Gave up...got the truck towed to a shop. They said that apparently when I got my new engine a few months ago, they didn't line the #1 piston with the crank pulley notch. I knew there was something wrong when I couldn't line the notch right when I did the timing...just thought I was a dope.

Anyhow...they were wanting 400 to take the cover off and check the chain and all that and check it out and adjust it. The guy was honest and said I should make the engine place do it since the engine was under warranty. The only reason I didn't want to do that the other day was because I thought I screwed it up by taking the distributor out...but I was doing it all right, apparently.

Well, the engine place has it and I'll update. Only out 120 bux so far...lol...oh and another 60 or so for towing...so about 180...argh.

 

here is some good info for next time. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../5distribu.pdf

If you have the valve cover off. At #1cyl TDC compression #1 rockers are loose and #4 are tight. You insert the distributor with rotor pointing at 12oclock and the bolt slot centered on the hold down threads. The rotor will rotate down to #1 as you push the distributor in.

 

Yeah...I tried to do it like that...but I didn't know how to check if the rocker arms are loose...lol...all I saw were coils/springs....I dunno what I'm doing in the engine.

So, I had to go by the crank pulley notch, which wasn't right to begine with...which is why I failed over and over.

I should have done the finger in the plug thing...but even then, I couldn't line the notch up right. So, yeah...I need to learn the rocker arm thing. Any advice? lol Or pics?