So, I just bought an 89 4runner with no rust and 125k.

My main problem with the beast is that it has no tach - and I would love to add one of those sweet ass clinometers. I'm sure these have been asked many times before, so I apologize in advance.

First question: If I swap in a full toyota truck gauge cluster, is my truck already wired to run the ampmeter, oilpressure gauge, and, most importantly, tach?

Second question: If I buy a cluster with 350,000 miles, say, can I set it back to 125 somehow? On a related note, and even if the previous answer is 'no', has anyone heard of maybe a 'notary public' certifying such a swap? "This truck really did have 125k before the new gauge; now the guage reads 350000 but the true milage is 125k" What would you think of such a piece of paper if you were buying a truck under those conditions?

Regarding the clino, will there already be a mounting bracket and power wire under the dash? Should I cut out the whole piece or just shoot in some screws?

thanks in advance and if there is already a good thread or writeup on this, feel free to point me in that direction

 

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I did this swap on an 89 truck. My truck did not have a tach wire. I switched out my speedometer from the old cluster to the new. I had some issues with needles, and the way the needles attach to the pins that spin them. The plastic illumination plates wont match from one cluster to the other when you move the old speedo over. So your needle, gets removed and replaced with one that mounts differently, and there are some rubber blocks that have to be removed too, but they are tiny and easy to see and deal with.
OR,
You can wrench the speedometers apart, and put the odometer to whatever you want, but it isnt easy.

Your new clusters tach should match engine (v6 vs 4cyl) if not, you can adjust them, but I don't think it makes it accurate across the rpm range. Mine reads almost 0 at idle but is accurate above idle, even a little over idle and it jumps up to where it should be. (Tested with a digital tach)

Your oil sending unit must be changed (from a idiot light to a guage type) or you will fry the gauge in the cluster. Have fun removing old sender without the proper oil sending unit socket 8-P on a 4cyl anyway.

Don't forget to attach the speedo cable before assembling the dash, it hurts removing it , especially if you have large arms. Unhook the cable from the guides in the engine compartment, and push the cable into the car after your cluster is loose. This makes a world of differeence getting the cable off.

You may find that the donor clusters lights dont match yours, ECT power light, vs clutch cancel, 4x4 etc. You just need the lights in the holes, but test them first you don't wanna have to take all that apart to replace bulbs. Some sr5 cluster bulbs don't match the simple clusters, so you might wasnt some extras.

Never seen a clinometer in person.

 

Mounting a clinomoter to a dash that didn't have one before requires that you cut out the 5 holes (4 mounting holes roughly 3/8" in diameter plus a 1" [approx] hole for the wire pass-thru) in dash pad. The metal backing under the pad is already punched, so all you need is to use a sharp knife to cut thru the vinyl to complete the holes.

Make sure you cut the right holes. There should only be one set, but you never know.

 

Thanks!

 

Whenever you find a clinometer to buy get them to sell you the whole dashpad with the bracket for the clinometer. The studs for the clinometer brackets are pressed into the dashpad that I bought. You can run your own wires right off the back of the dash light dimmer switch so the clino lights will dim with the rest of your lights. I already have all the wires ran and the clinometer on my old dash pad with velcro- NO LAUGHING!!!! I will be installing the clinometer dash pad this weekend so I can permentantly attach everything. I will let you know how it turns out.