i've removed the 6 bolts behind the rotor but the damned thing won't come off. am i missing something or do i just need to whack harder?

 

Just whack it off

 

100% right whack it off. then go after that rotor, hit it right on the hub part with a hamer, dont be scared its gonna behard spin it around and hit it all around on a little bit of an angle too

 

just take a 10lbs sledge hamer to it should come right off

 

reminder......just like tightening bolts top than bottom left then right.....even hits......a normal hammer wont work

 

THAT IS SIG MATERIAL!

 

got em. now everything goes back together. i just know that something isn't going to be right though. that's always the way it works for me when i try to repair something that i have never done before. any tips?

 

high temp grease and be careful with the spindle nuts

 

clean up the hub so the rotor sits nice and flush. less chance for any pulsation

 

calipers back on. is it ok that the rotor is contacting the pads? i assume that as they heat up, they will push back in slightly? i had to return a caliper because the brake line would not bite into the caliper's threads. all better now.

 

make sure the retainer clip for the pads are on correctly, otherwise you may get vibrations at higher rpm like I did.

Troy

 

can someone go step by step on how i do a brake fluid change?

or correct my understanding of how it's done.

- open rear bleeders and pump brakes until m/c is dry
- open front bleeders and gravity bleed
- clean out m/c & close bleeders
- fill m/c and bleed furthest to closest

do i need to bleed the m/c and or lspv?

 

Whoa,
Don't let the MC go dry you will have all kinds of headaches. Just do this.
Remove all the old fluid in the MC(Turkey Baster works good) put in new fluid and then bleed each corner until it pumps clear. Starting with the one farthest away which is passenger side then driver side rear then passenger side front then drivers side front. This will remove all the old fluid and bleed everything at the same time. If it doesn't have ABS then I would consider moving to a DOT 5 fluid but ONLY if it doesn't have ABS. If it does use regular DOT 3.

 

I agree. Otherwise you'll have to bench bleed your MC.

Troy

 

everything is done. when i went to use the turkey baster on the mc, it was almost empty already just from the brake lines being disconnected from the front calipers. i sucked out whatever was left that i could, then i bled from furthest to closest and took it out for a spin around the block. everything seems ok, but there is still a bit of air in the lines i believe - first press of the pedal goes further down than the second. i didn't bleed the mc or lspv - is that necessary?

 

Don't push the pedal down extremely fast or as hard as you can. I think you can damage the master cylinder this way. Do it slowly and evenly. If you bled it at all calipers/wheel cylinders, it should be good to go. You might try bleeding the master cylinder a little.

 

you will probably have to adjust the rear brakes as well as you p/brake. that should tighten everything up where you have good pedal feel.

lee

 

the fsm says to fill the brake resevoir and then disconnect the brakelines from the m/c to bleed it. won't the fluid come out of the m/c if i disconnect the lines?

 

There is a technique involving covering the brake line holes with your hand and bleeding the master cylinder. It is very messy. If you disconnect the lines, you will have to bleed the brake calipers/cylinders again. Fluid will not come out much b/c of the valves.

Lee was right- adjust the back brakes with a brake spoon and you may solve some of the problem. I forgot about doing that. Tighten up the rear and then see how it stops.

 

You can adjust the rear brakes without using a spoon by repeatably pushing the parking brake bellcrank on each side (the one that's attached to the backing plate). This cycles the self adjusters. It may take a while, but you should feel it firm up when the adjustment has reached the proper amount.