Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Oil pump is toast and metal is everywhere... where do I go from here?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 06:05 PM
  #1  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Oil pump is toast and metal is everywhere... where do I go from here?

Well the oil pump in my 87 22R-E is toast. I just pulled it today and this is what I got :










Anyway, you get the idea. Needless to say, the oil pump, spline and cover need to be replaced, along with all the gaskets.

I want to drop the oil pan and there isn't much clearance between the oil pan and the front differential. My 88 FSM says to take out the engine mounts and lift the tranny about 1 inch. An online 93 FSM indicated that this should only be done with a 2WD.

I'm leaning more towards dropping the differential. How is this done?

Also, is there anything else that I should check after seeing this much damage to the oil pump, especially with all the metal that was broken off? I shook out grain sized pieces of metal.

Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; Jan 8, 2006 at 07:01 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 06:12 PM
  #2  
superjoe83's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,864
Likes: 1
From: Oregon City, Oregon
i hope you have a good oil filter, otherwise you will have some major engine damage, thats the first one that Ive seen do that, it looks like it tried to seize up, is that a Toyota pump or aftermarket?
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 06:25 PM
  #3  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by superjoe83
i hope you have a good oil filter, otherwise you will have some major engine damage, thats the first one that Ive seen do that, it looks like it tried to seize up, is that a Toyota pump or aftermarket?


Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; Jan 8, 2006 at 06:58 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #4  
91_4x4runner's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Call them up and have them replace it. Should happen free of charge (for it being defective).
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #5  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by 91_4runner
Call them up and have them replace it. Should happen free of charge (for it being defective).
The truck has 350,000 km on it and I suspect that it's the original pump. Since I got it about a month ago, I drove it about 3,000 km without any apparent problems. In this case, I'm SOL.

Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; Jan 8, 2006 at 07:17 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #6  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Does anyone have any suggestions about how to lower the front diff or is there a better way to drop the oil pan on a 22R-E?

Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; Jan 8, 2006 at 07:39 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 07:26 PM
  #7  
colsoncj's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 2
From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
ya i can walk you through step by step if you need and help over the phone... lemme know what works best!
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #8  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by colsoncj
ya i can walk you through step by step if you need and help over the phone... lemme know what works best!
Thanks Cory. If it's not too much trouble, perhaps you could post. That way I can take hard copy with me to my parent's place where I've got the runner stored in their garage.

Troy
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 06:51 AM
  #9  
colsoncj's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 2
From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
sure... ive got class til 9, after that I'll post a write up
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 06:54 AM
  #10  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by colsoncj
sure... ive got class til 9, after that I'll post a write up
Awesome. Looking forward to the writeup Cory.

Thanks,

Troy
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:46 AM
  #11  
colsoncj's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 2
From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
OK, I assuming you dont have a lift, and your truck is stock.

First thing to do is disconnect the CV's from the differential. There are six nuts holding the CV shafts to the differential shafts. They look like bolts but arent, use a wrench and brace it against something for the differential side, and loosen the nut on the wheel side. Once those are loose, you should be able to, or be close to being able to pulling the CVs off the studs in the differential shafts.

Next remove the driveshaft from the front diff. There are four bolts with lockwashers. take all four bolts off between the diff and the d-shaft. Then pull the d-shaft off of the pinion flange (may have to pry it a little).

The last part is removing the diffential from the truck. first you need to jack the truck up and put the jack stands or cinder blocks on the frame (very important.) dont put them on the a-frames cause you could cause frame bending (I found this out the hard way). After that remove the front crossmember from the truck. Should be four bolts, two on the passenger side, two on the driver side. theres also the attachment bolt that holds the front of the differential up. Undo all those, and it should slide out straight downward. Next there are three more bolts that hold the diff on. There are two on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. Undo these three bolts and manuever the diff out and your done... it isnt the easiest manuevering it out, but its possible. IF the CV shafts didnt come completely off the studs, they will in this process, and when you reinstall it, as you put the diff up and in, you need to line them back up on the studs.

That should cover most of it, but this is all off of memory. If you want, PM me and I can give you my cell number should you have questions while your doin it. Hope this helps!
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 08:04 AM
  #12  
eric-the-red's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,593
Likes: 7
From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Hey Troy, if you need a hand let me know, I took the front diff out of my 93 when I had it. I've also got one brand new side seal from my diff that I never used. If you have any leaks it would be a good time to replace the seal. I'll give you a good deal on it
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:00 AM
  #13  
colsoncj's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 2
From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
Ya replacing the seals would be a great idea..
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 11:22 AM
  #14  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by colsoncj
OK, I assuming you dont have a lift, and your truck is stock.

First thing to do is disconnect the CV's from the differential. There are six nuts holding the CV shafts to the differential shafts. They look like bolts but arent, use a wrench and brace it against something for the differential side, and loosen the nut on the wheel side. Once those are loose, you should be able to, or be close to being able to pulling the CVs off the studs in the differential shafts.

Next remove the driveshaft from the front diff. There are four bolts with lockwashers. take all four bolts off between the diff and the d-shaft. Then pull the d-shaft off of the pinion flange (may have to pry it a little).

The last part is removing the diffential from the truck. first you need to jack the truck up and put the jack stands or cinder blocks on the frame (very important.) dont put them on the a-frames cause you could cause frame bending (I found this out the hard way). After that remove the front crossmember from the truck. Should be four bolts, two on the passenger side, two on the driver side. theres also the attachment bolt that holds the front of the differential up. Undo all those, and it should slide out straight downward. Next there are three more bolts that hold the diff on. There are two on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. Undo these three bolts and manuever the diff out and your done... it isnt the easiest manuevering it out, but its possible. IF the CV shafts didnt come completely off the studs, they will in this process, and when you reinstall it, as you put the diff up and in, you need to line them back up on the studs.

That should cover most of it, but this is all off of memory. If you want, PM me and I can give you my cell number should you have questions while your doin it. Hope this helps!
Awesome! Thanks for the detailed info. You've helped me out a lot and I sincerely appreciate the time. If I have any problems, I'll call you.

Troy
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #15  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by eric-the-red
Hey Troy, if you need a hand let me know, I took the front diff out of my 93 when I had it. I've also got one brand new side seal from my diff that I never used. If you have any leaks it would be a good time to replace the seal. I'll give you a good deal on it
I'll take your offer and email you to work out the time and date. Sure, I'll buy the seal - how about in beers? I guess I should have sold the 4runner like you told me to when I had the chance .

Thanks again Eric.

Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; Jan 9, 2006 at 11:31 AM.
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #16  
kyle_22r's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,981
Likes: 4
From: Lacey, WA
wow, that's just plain bad luck. i've never heard of an oil pump failing on one of these engines. was it a gradual thing, or did it all go kaboom at once?
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by kyle_22r
wow, that's just plain bad luck. i've never heard of an oil pump failing on one of these engines. was it a gradual thing, or did it all go kaboom at once?
Kaboom! Lots of clanking and grinding and then oil was flung all over the engine bay from the main seal. I'll drop the oil pan and look at the oil filter to get a better idea of the damage internally.

Troy
Reply
Old Jan 11, 2006 | 01:36 PM
  #18  
colsoncj's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 2
From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
any updates?
Reply
Old Jan 11, 2006 | 04:04 PM
  #19  
YotaJunky's Avatar
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by colsoncj
any updates?
No progress yet. I'm expecting a front end kit from engbldr. I'm still looking for a harmonic balancer and oil pump drive gear. Hopefully, I'll be able to do more work on it this weekend.

Troy
Reply
Old Jan 11, 2006 | 06:34 PM
  #20  
colsoncj's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 2
From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
sweetness... any problems removing the diff?
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:01 AM.