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How to set v6 @ TDC with timming belt off?

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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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How to set v6 @ TDC with timming belt off?

Just for the hell of it, how would one go at getting the cams and crank lined up at TDC with out a timming belt being on previously?

Just wondering.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 06:08 PM
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I think you would pull the #1 plug and watch for the cylinder to come to TDC, then align the marks on the cam pulleys with the marks on the head.

Would it matter if you lined it up after the compression or the exhaust stroke?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
Would it matter if you lined it up after the compression or the exhaust stroke?
From my noob knowledge of mechanics, I am going to say that it doesn't matter, because you should be putting your cams at 0 and the cylinder at TDC. Someone correct me
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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the cam pulleys should only go on in one position and be marked for TDC, or at least they have been on the motors ive worked on, for the crank just put a socket extension in and turn it till it reaches the highest level
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
Would it matter if you lined it up after the compression or the exhaust stroke?
Hmmm, if there is no timing belt, the distributor isn't rotating, so it probably wouldn't matter. Just make sure you set the dist so the rotor is pointing to #1 on compression stroke afterward.

So to answer the first question, I would:

-Rotate the crank until the mark on the pulley lines up with 0 degrees on it's counter part.

-Take a peek at the rotor, make sure it's pointing at #1 - or (if your distributor is removed) remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the hole, rotate crank to 0 degrees, if you feel a blast of air go past your finger you are on TDC of the compression stroke(good), if you feel no blast you are on the exhuast stroke (rotate once more). make sure crank is at 0 before moving on.

-Line up each cam.

- replace distributor with rotor pointing at #1 spark wire. (if needed)

Last edited by ChickenLover; Dec 29, 2005 at 06:54 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 07:57 PM
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Both cam sprockets have timing marks on them that corrispond to a mark on the plate behind the sprockets. The marks point up. If the lower timing belt cover is on then line up the notch on the crank pulley to 0 on the cover. If the lower cover is off there is a mark on the lower timing belt pulley that lines up with a mark in the oil pump housing. If all these marks are lined up you can't screw anything up with the timing.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 08:11 PM
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I will back up Manson's statement. I had my second timing belt come apart while traveling 75 on the freeway. After I got it home and cleaned up, lined up the arrows and put the new timing belt on. All has been good ever since.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Interesting. I forgot about the marks on the cam pulleys and the 3rd cover. Wouldn't you have to be a bit carefull on rotating the crankshaft since the 3.0 is an interference engine?
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 05:26 PM
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im almost positive the 3.0 isnt an interference engine.... so nope, no worries
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Old May 10, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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no i dont think so,
i just rebuilt my 3vze and lined up the bottem pully, both cams are lined up and i put everything back together and now it wont start ?
how can i tell if im either 180* out or on the exhaust stroke?
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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 9four4runner
no i dont think so,
i just rebuilt my 3vze and lined up the bottem pully, both cams are lined up and i put everything back together and now it wont start ?
how can i tell if im either 180* out or on the exhaust stroke?

this one looks pretty good ..


Originally Posted by ChickenLover
Hmmm, if there is no timing belt, the distributor isn't rotating, so it probably wouldn't matter. Just make sure you set the dist so the rotor is pointing to #1 on compression stroke afterward.

So to answer the first question, I would:

-Rotate the crank until the mark on the pulley lines up with 0 degrees on it's counter part.

-Take a peek at the rotor, make sure it's pointing at #1 - or (if your distributor is removed) remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the hole, rotate crank to 0 degrees, if you feel a blast of air go past your finger you are on TDC of the compression stroke(good), if you feel no blast you are on the exhuast stroke (rotate once more). make sure crank is at 0 before moving on.

-Line up each cam.

- replace distributor with rotor pointing at #1 spark wire. (if needed)
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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If you line up the crank pulley and cam pulleys with their marks, you are by definition at TDC of the compression stroke. There is no possible way (unless something is broken bad) for any other option. With all the pulleys correctly lined up, follow the FSM procedure for installing the distributor and you will be set.

The 3.0 is not an interference engine so no worries on damage when rotating the crank or cam.

Take care
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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ok so i tore it down reset the crank to 0 and the top gears alinged and restabed the dis. but she wont start?
i dont get it shell turn over i get spark and gas but no start
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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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Silly, Wild-Ass Guess, but are you sure you are not 180 degrees off on your timing? As you know, the crankshaft turns twice for each time the camshafts turn once. So, when the crankshaft pulley's mark is lined up with the corresponding line on the motor (or oil pump I think it might be,) you only have a 50/50 chance of the No. 1 cylinder being at the top of its compression stroke...which is where it must be.

RMA provides a prior post above by ChickenLover wherein he provides the 'Betty Crocker' on how to ensure this is indeed the situation. If you followed that recipe, the crankshaft is in time with the cams...if not, it could be 180 degrees off. Aplogolies if I am covering old ground.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 06:35 AM
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From: eureka ca humboldt
thanks Lex ill double check it right now ill retear her down again
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Old Jul 13, 2018 | 09:27 AM
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Tdc

What was the final result of your engine not starting, was it 180 d out
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Old Jul 13, 2018 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryLDuncan
What was the final result of your engine not starting, was it 180 d out
you really, really, REALLY need to look at post dates before asking questions directed to a specific user. the most recent post prior to yours occurred 8 years ago, and the thread began THIRTEEN years ago.
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Old Jul 14, 2018 | 02:04 AM
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Tdc

Your right ,BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT,I did observe that the person who posted the remarks was still around as recent as may 2018. So do you know if he figured out what the problem with his engine was.!
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Old Jul 14, 2018 | 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryLDuncan
Your right ,BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT,I did observe that the person who posted the remarks was still around as recent as may 2018. So do you know if he figured out what the problem with his engine was.!
send the member a pm...
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Old Jul 14, 2018 | 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryLDuncan
Your right ,BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT,I did observe that the person who posted the remarks was still around as recent as may 2018. So do you know if he figured out what the problem with his engine was.!
i count at least 10 different individuals who posted remarks. yours quotes zero of them. as dropzone stated, send the particular user a PM.
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