I have the said amp (2 channel, not bridgeable) and the feature says 150 watts x 1 at 4 ohm or 300 watts x 1 at 2 ohm. The real problem is im looking to buy a jl sub which is 300 watts DVC 2 ohm. How will i wire this sub to the amp? What will be the net rms? Thanks!

 

So each voice coil is 2 ohm, right?

For series, you just add the impedances together. For parallel, you add the impedances, then divide by the number of voice coils.

Wire them in series to get 4 ohm (parallel would be 1 ohm). Let's call the 2 voice coils A & B, each one has a + and a -. From amp+ to VC A+, VC A- to VC B+, VC B- to amp-

That JL sub will handle a lot more power than that. I had about 800W going to each 12W0 in my competition truck...

 

The P3001 is a monoblock amplifier. With that subwoofer you can run at 1 or 4 ohms. The P3001 is not 1 ohm stable. It will run for a while but it will go thermal and shut down. It will lower the life of your amp and could influence any warranty you may have on it. At 4 ohm the amp will provide 150wrms at 14.4 volts but will most likely be higher based on it's birth certificate. On average the P3001 is 350-425wrms at 2ohms @14.4 volts.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...h%20Amplifiers

It is a solid amplifier and I have sold many with little to no problems to date.

 

im still a little confused...

suppose i have 2 subs a=150 watts dvc 2 ohm= 300 watts parallel (1 ohm)?
b=150 watts dvc 2 ohm = 300 watts parallel (1 ohm)?

1)RF P3001 = 2 channel (non bridgeable) 1st ch= 300 rms at 1 ohm? a sub?
2nd ch= 300 rms at 1 ohm? b sub?


assuming the P3001 is 1 ohm stable. (for the sake of learning)
or


2)RF P3001= 1st ch> connect sub a in series = net 150 rms?
= 2nd ch>connect sub b in series = net 150 rms?


Help!!!!

 

Um, dude, I've been around this A LONG time, and can't make out what you're thinking in that post...Let me take a few guesses - best I can figure, you have the impedance/power thing confused.

The "wattage" rating on a sub is pretty worthless. If the signal is clean, speakers can take A LOT of power. If the signal is clipped, you will smoke the highest rated speaker.

You wire the speakers to the proper impedance for the amp. Lower impedance means a higher current draw though the amp, so it USUALLY puts out more power. Of course, more current means more heat, so if you go too low, you will burn up your amp.

Now, let's say you had 2 DVC subs @ 2 ohms per VC and a 1 channel amp like the 3001. Your options and the resulting impedance would be:
1- All series = 2+2+2+2 = 8 ohm
2- All parallel = 1/(1/2+1/2+1/2+1/2)/4 = 0.5 ohm
3- Series each sub/parallel between them = 1/(1/(2+2)+1/(2+2)) = 2 ohm
4- Parallel each sub/series between them = 1/(1/2 +1/2) + 1/(1/2+1/2) = 2 ohm

In option 1, the amp would be doing around 75W
Option 2, the amp COULD do 1200W, but it will really do 0W since it will burn up
Options 3/4, the amp makes its max (safe) 300W

NOW lets say the amp was a bridgeable 2 ch amp (which it's not - it's just a 1 ch amp - my guess is that it's really a 2ch amp bridged at the factory). Say that this was a P3002.

You could wire your 2 DVC subs @ 2 ohms per VC:
1- All series, bridged = 2+2+2+2 = 8 ohm => 150W
2- All parallel, bridged = 1/(1/2+1/2+1/2+1/2)/4 = 0.5 ohm => 2400W
3- Series each sub, stereo = 4 ohm stereo => 150W (75W each sub)
4- Parallel each sub, stereo = 1 ohm stereo => 600W (300W each sub)
5- Series/parallel, bridged = 2 ohm => 600W
(As you can see, bridged is the same as stereo at half the impedance)

So called "cheater" amps (Orion HCCA, USAmps VLX, Soundstream) take advantage of this property by being able to handle the low impedances of parallel speakers. I ran an Orion 225HCCA at half ohm MONO (1/4 ohm stereo!) when I was doing competition to give me a lot of power with still being in the low power class.

 

thanks a lot!