a flat undercarriage on 3rd gen:





Basically, I've used FROR's transfer case skid plate, and custom fabbed a combination of 3x1.5x3/16" and 3x2x3/16" tubing to make the front crossmember.

As a result, I've got a flat undercarriage from just behind the front tires all the way back to the lower control arm mounts in the rear.

To achieve this, I did a 3" RB body lift, and the 3" RB motor mount spacers. The transfer case skid sits level with the bottom of the frame rails, and the front one I made sits about a 1/2" above the frame rails.

Chris

 

nice work Chris!

 

I take it your spare lives in the cargo area now? and yes nice work on the flat belly

 

Thanks Will! Did you ever pursue that Mustang Gas Tank idea? If so, I'd love to here more about it. Email me: chrisrademacher@fastmail.fm

Will, are you guys planning to come out this direction as we talked about in the past, briefly? If so, you and Mike and whoever else has a place to stay if you need it.

Chris

 

Yes it does. I lay it down flat and strap it down. It's not the best thing for cargo carrying ability, but I don't like carrying much in the back anyway. I can't wait to test it out. I've had the cetner crossmember on for quite some time, which made a huge difference, and I'm hoping now that I've done the front one, I won't hang on anything by those stupid lower control arm frame mounts.

Chris

 

Looks good. The 3rd gens don't have stuff hanging down quite as far as the 1st and 2nd gens do. I did a 3" lift and have just the FWD portion of the t-case (mainly just the skid plate under it) and the skid plate under the gas tank (the tank itself is above the bottom of the frame) hanging below the frame rails:



http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ft/index.shtml

 

That's a lot better than stock though, isn't it? Mine wouldn't have happened without your help, Roger. I really appreciate it. I'd say I'm one a only a few that have done it on a 3rd gen, but I'm sue people will begin to realize the benefits soon.

Chris

 

Here is stock:



Gained about 5.5" over the stock clearance under the truck. And it does make a huge difference off-road. I used to get hung up all the time on the crossmember and since lifting the drivetrain, I think I have only gotten hung up once and that was from taking a bad line and slipping off that line onto a big rock.

Funny thing is the first trip I took over the Fordyce (Sierra Trek) trail after the lift, I thought it was cool that I didn't even hit the t-case skid plate the whole trip, or so I thought. After the trail, I looked underneath, and saw lots of scrapes on the skidplate. So, I guess I did still hit it, just never got hung up on it.

 

thats realy nice. what other mods did you need to do ? i am very interested in this.

 

First off, is that a LC front diff I see? NICE! Second, wouldnt this method increase driveline angles severely?

James

 

Yes, that is a high pinion front diff from an FJ80. A 3" drivetrain lift adds 2-3 degrees to the driveshaft angles. With CV joints at the top end of both driveshafts, there is no problem with that. I have near perfect front shaft alingment w/ no shimming needed. In back, I had to add a few degrees to the shims.

 

so 4cralwer is this a kit you have too?

 

You bet:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MotorMount.shtml

 

so its just a 3" BL and a motor mount lift and I can have my trucks undercarriage look like that? that and someone to fab the crossmembers?

 

Basically, yes; X" body lift, X" motor mount lift then there are a number of aftermarket tranny mount crossmembers you can get to raise that part of the drivetrain:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...shtml#BudBuilt

Then some fab work to raise other stuff like the exhaust and gas tank:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ft/index.shtml

 

cool thank you it seems i have some reading to do

oh btw whats the smallest amount of BL i can get and still have that result? a 3"?

 

Here's what I'd recommend to achieve what I've done:

1) RB 3" Ultimate Body Lift w/ Grade 8 bolts - his top of the line body lift
2) RB 3" Motor Mount Spacers
3) FROR transfer case skid plate
4) Custom fab the front crossmember using 3x1.5x3/16" & 3x2x3/16" tubing

Obviously you have to cut out the old crossmembers, and install the new ones, but I can promise it's going to make a huge difference out on the trails.

Chris

 

looks good.

i'm thinking i'd like to achieve a similar result by clocking up the tcase and then putting in a custom cross member. i only have a 1.5" body lift.

 

I don't beleive it will work with 1.5" and clocking, but if it doesn, good luck and please let us know.

Chris

 

did you have any trouble with your transmission (auto) and 4wd shifters? or anything else like the bumpers?