I have 32x11.50r15 BFG AT KO's on my truck, which is completely stock suspension. The only thing that is not stock on my suspension are my front shocks, which are Bilsteins that are extended travel (only have front because i came across a deal on them that i could not pass up). Anyways, im tired of the tires rubbing at full crank, and i would like the truck to sit a little higher anyways. I plan on going up 4" in the future with either total chaos or SAS... But thats a ways down the road due to the cost... Sooo until then, i figure i would just crank the torsions and get lift shackles for the rear. The truck sits prerunner anyways due to the spring sag, so if the shackles lift a little more than the front is lifted it would just level it out. Anyways, my question is how much can i crank the torsions and still keep a decent ride and a decent amount of droop? I would like to go up 2"

 

the number ive heard is 15" from edge of rim to edge of fender. CV boot wear will increase if you dont have man hubs. (or if you keep em locked all the time)

 

To keep any kind of ride quality 1"-1"1/2.
I gave someone 4" rear lift blocks years ago and he cranked the front to match. Rode like an empty 5ton dump truck.

On my 92 , I bought rear 1-1/2" shackles . Then cranked the torsions. I soon bought B.J. Spacers and turned the T-bars back down. That's the route I would go. I was running 32 TSL's

Click on my sig "My truck" for pics of it

 

OK, Ive run stock t-bars at stock hight and cranked to bumpstops, and I currently run downey 26mm t-bars cranked to low profile bumpstops.

As far as off road goes I run swampers 33-35". in the rocks, mud, whatever, and Ive NEVER had ANY issuses with the cv's and I run it hard. I know technically they are weaker but unless you are some good ol boy on the skinny pedal youll be fine!!

As far as on road THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN RIDE QUALITY (period) As far as wear goes I ran it with auto hubs for a year or so with no issues, but now I do run manuals I strongly suggest it, escpecially if you plan on going to total chaos.

Let me repeat this....

CRANK AWAY

 

contrary to popular belief, cranking the tbars DOES NOT change preload on the bars...
crank until your cvs blow replace the cvs and crank down jsut a hair

 

MorphiasX

I just put the same setup on my truck yesterday, 32x11.50 BFG's, 2 1/2" longer Marlin Crawler shackles and a mild torsion bar crank. Rim to fender lip distance before was 13 1/4" front, 12 1/2" rear, now I am at 14 1/4" front and 14" rear. I have read that 14 1/2" is the max you can safely crank the bars.

The truck looks much better and the ride isn't much stiffer than before. I still get a little rub when flexed so I will eventually do Ball Joint spacers in the front. Dont forget to get an alignment after you crank the bars. The Marlin Crawler Shackles are really nice, they come with Poly bushings for the spring and the frame. The hardest part was getting the old bushings out of the spring eye.