Is there a way to electronically check the AC compressor if it works?? I see an electrical wire with a e 1 inch or so plastic connection? Can I "jump" it, per say?


1989 4Runner
V6 3.0 L Auto
4WD
195,000 miles

 

you still use the same compressor..... there is no difference in the compressor between running stock r12 and retrofitting r134a

it sounds as you have a mechanical problem, and that needs to be addressed first

 

When I ran out of R12 my compressor wouldn't click on at all either. I had a friend that was a local mechanic in florida replace my schrader valve in the refill line (high side) and drained the whole system and recharged with R134. Still works over a year later.

 

mine went out last summer, turns out the condenser is cracked. if you know someone who is a mech, get them to take a look and let you know for certain what is broken.

lee

 

If it has no leaks but is just low on freon, the best way to do it is to pull a good vaccum on it, (you'll have to take it to a shop) buy some adapters for the high and low connectors, and fill it with R134A.

 

There is way to much stuff to change to properly run R134 in a system intended for R12. R12 is still available, but it is expensive.

A great drop in replacement is R-405a and it does not need any converstion at all.

Gadget

 

Not really...Once I got the system vacuumed and valves changed out then R-134 put in it was good to go and is running on its second summer of cool air with no problems yet.

 

OK, so you looked up your truck in IMACA book and it indicated that no seals, condensor, dryer, compressor, evaporator, or any other component needed to be changed to make your system compatable with R-134? Or did you just stick it in an hoped for the best?

R-134 may work, but it is less efficent, and may be corrosive to some of the compenents in a R-12 system.

In the end there is absolutely no reason at all to put a potentially damaging refrigerent into your system when you simply do not have to. You can use R-12 or it direct drop in replacement, R-405a that will work perfectly, not damage your system, and it is CHEAP.

Gadget

 

As a matter of fact I had a certified mechanic do it and I would trust he has done alot of air conditioners seeing as it is Florida and the a/c is used quite frequently. All I can say is its going on its second year with no problems so there must have been something right there. Besides...im not here for a pissing contest or debate just stated my opinion on my experience with it and the thread poster can make his own assumptions based on what we say because R12 is becoming obsolete.
Just a little research I did...


heard that if you have to retrofit a vehicle from R-12 to R-134a you should change all of the components in the system. Why is it that with the Interdynamics Retrofit Kit you don't have to change or alter any internal components?




In the beginning, when retrofitting vehicle air conditioning systems first came up, it was assumed that major components of the system designed for use with R-12 would have to be changed to R-134a compatible components. As more research was done, and as vehicles were actually retrofitted, we learned more and more about the process, namely that much less had to be done than was originally thought.
If an R-12 system is functioning properly, components do not have to be changed, and the R-12 refrigerant can be replaced with R-134a without opening up the system. If, however, the system is not functioning and repairs must be made, then the defective parts should be replaced with R-134a compatible parts.

Hoses and O-Rings (if not damaged) do not need to be replaced, because the mineral oil used in the R-12 system is absorbed by the rubber, and actually forms a protective barrier, protecting it from the R-134a.

 

At the shop I work for, the guys I work with said they've converted many trucks over from 12 to 134 by simply drawing a vaccum and switching out the connectors. No problems at all they said.

 

Filled with the Interdynamics, no worries, now blowing cold air.
only problem is that the compressor seems to be leaking (or, one of the pipes).
It runs fine for a few minutes, then a leak starts, the idle ramps up from 800-1000, and then the leak cuts off, idle returns to normal, only to repeat the process a few minutes later. This 'breathing' has the cold air blowing throughout. When I turn off the a/c, idle stabilizes at 800RPM. Any advice appreciated.
I am going to buy an interdynamics leak kit with UV dye to check.

 

When I did my engine swap, I was lookign at using my R12 components and filling it up with R134a.

I read that using R134a is much less efficent in a R12 system than the R12 coolant. That is why people suggest switching all the R12 components over to the R134a components.