i own a 1992 pickup 4x4 x-cab and i want to give it a bit of a lift. maybe a 1" t-bar crank in the front, and new 2" lift springs in the rear. what are your opinions of downey 2" lift springs? i like that they are much less expensive than OME springs, but are they a straight bolt in? i'd like to get some new rear springs, though id consider lift blocks/longer shackles if they are more functional. im willin to spend the dough on new leaf springs, in case lift blocks or shackles are just a cheaper alternative.

if i lift my truck, will i run into any probs with brake lines, drive shafts, parking brake, or cv joints as long as i stay under 3"?

and lastly, after the lift, 32x11.50 bfg at's should fit without rubbing, right? even under full compression?

thanks for all help, im still learning my way with my toyota truck

 

If you've got the money springs are the way to go...but many people are running shackles with good results, with the money you save on just shackles rather then springs you could go for BJ spacers in the front rather then a t-bar crank and probably have money left over for a body lift...I know that with 2" body lift you can fit 33x12.5 without rubbing as long as you flatten out the pinch weld at the back of the front fenders...check out 4crawler.com for more info and all the parts

 

Don't do blocks. Blocks suck. They can come out and break a ton of stuff. They can cause axle wrap. Plus they just look cheap.

Shackles aren't the best either. They work, but larger shackles are meant to work with larger springs. They can change your pinion angle.

I have the Doney 3" springs and am pretty happy with them. For 160-180 a pair they are awesome. Worth the money for sure.

Get some bj spacers up front. They're pretty cheap too and will actually help your truck flex and give you lift too.

You should be able to fit 32x11.50's or 33x10.50's without problems or rubbing.

You could get springs and a body lift for less than what it would cost to get a body lift installed.....and your rig will be more functional. If you are handy with tools, the Bj spacers and springs can be easily put on in your driveway.

 

awesome, im planning on doin this all myself

if i go with bjs and new springs, will i need any other new hardware? like brake lines or longer shocks - anything that cant handle maybe 3" of lift

 

also, where should i look to buy some sway bar quick disconnects? (ideally a whole kit w/ bushings)

 

I like my Downey springs, but as a point of reference, my 3" springs only yielded 2" of lift after settling. Keep that in mind when/if ordering. I have that and Roger Browns 1" body lift and didn't need longer brake lines or anything else. You have to move the brake proportioning valve with the springs but Downey includes the bracket to do it. You might want longer shocks to maximize travel but thats still a work in progress for me. Measure your full compression and extension (there is a how to article over on 4crawler) and do both sides. I didn't and mine weren't the same which caused me problems. You should be able to use your current shocks until you decide what you want. 4crawler has a nice quick disco as do these guys. http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/disconnects.htm
Right now I just have my bar off completely and don't miss it a bit.

 

Actually, the 2 and 3 inch springs from downey are for the pickups, well, by that i mean that they give the pic ups 3 inches of lift, or 2 inches of lift. They give the 4Runners an inch less. Leaf sprung 4Runners usually had pretty bad sag. The pickups, in general, did not have the rearend sag the 4runners had. So, i would talk to Downey about it. I recomend new shocks, or limiting straps. If you let the shock limit your travel, you'll risk damaging the shock. Bilstein has a nice set, 5150's or 5100's i believe. NWOR has disco's as well, if you want to deal with them. I also replaced my rear brake line becasue it was at a pretty bad angle when fully extended with my new shocks and springs.