95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

I need details on howto change Tacoma 3rd out

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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 01:38 PM
  #1  
blown2wdtoy's Avatar
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I need details on howto change Tacoma 3rd out

I have a new 3rd member for my 97 tacoma .I have never done a rear end before but have friends who can help me swap it out .What does it take to swap it out .Are there clips on the axles holding them in place on the inside of the 3rd ?Any info offerered would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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Jared Ajlouny's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA
you have to take the axle sout than remove the third by taking out the bolts around it
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 02:31 PM
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From: Duvall, WA
REMOVAL
1. DRAIN HYPOID GEAR OIL
2. REMOVE REAR AXLE SHAFTS (See page SA–128 (Below))
3. DISCONNECT REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
2WD: See page PR–3
4WD and pre runner: See page PR–11
4. REMOVE DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the 10 nuts, washers and differential carrier assembly.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the installation surface.
Torque: 73 N·m (740 kgf·cm, 54 ft·lbf)
(b) Remove the gasket.

Axle Shaft REMOVAL
1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL AND BRAKE DRUM
Torque: 110 N·m (1,150 kgf·cm, 83 ft·lbf)
2. CHECK BEARING BACKLASH AND AXLE SHAFT
DEVIATION
(a) Using a dial indicator, check the backlash in the bearing
shaft direction.
Maximum: 0.7 mm (0.028 in.)
If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
(b) Using a dial indicator, check the deviation at the surface
of the axle shaft outside the hub bolt.
Maximum: 0.1 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle shaft.
3. w/ ABS:
REMOVE ABS SPEED SENSOR FROM REAR AXLE
HOUSING
Remove the bolt and ABS speed sensor.
Torque: 8.0 N·m (82 kgf·cm, 71 in.·lbf)
4. REMOVE REAR BRAKE ASSEMBLY
2WD: See page BR–37
4WD and pre runner: See page BR–42
5. DISCONNECT BRAKE LINE AND PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(a) Using SST, disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder.
SST 09751–36011
Torque: 15 N·m (155 kgf·cm, 11 ft·lbf)
(b) 2WD:
Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the parking brake
cable.
Torque: 9.3 N·m (95 kgf·cm, 82 in.·lbf)
6. REMOVE REAR AXLE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the 4 backing plate mounting nuts.
Torque: 68 N·m (700 kgf·cm, 50 ft·lbf)
(b) Pull out the rear axle shaft assembly from the rear axle
housing.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the oil seal.
7. REMOVE O–RING FROM REAR AXLE HOUSING
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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GRNTACO's Avatar
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From: On a trail in WA.
Jack up truck.
Remove 4 bolts on back of drum.
Remove brake line and cables.
Pull axle out.
Remove driveline.
Remove bolts on diff.
Pull diff off.

Reverse order for assembly. Shouldn't take more than 1 hour.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 02:34 PM
  #5  
GRNTACO's Avatar
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From: On a trail in WA.
Originally Posted by WATRD
REMOVAL
1. DRAIN HYPOID GEAR OIL
2. REMOVE REAR AXLE SHAFTS (See page SA–128 (Below))
3. DISCONNECT REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
2WD: See page PR–3
4WD and pre runner: See page PR–11
4. REMOVE DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the 10 nuts, washers and differential carrier assembly.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the installation surface.
Torque: 73 N·m (740 kgf·cm, 54 ft·lbf)
(b) Remove the gasket.

Axle Shaft REMOVAL
1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL AND BRAKE DRUM
Torque: 110 N·m (1,150 kgf·cm, 83 ft·lbf)
2. CHECK BEARING BACKLASH AND AXLE SHAFT
DEVIATION
(a) Using a dial indicator, check the backlash in the bearing
shaft direction.
Maximum: 0.7 mm (0.028 in.)
If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
(b) Using a dial indicator, check the deviation at the surface
of the axle shaft outside the hub bolt.
Maximum: 0.1 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle shaft.
3. w/ ABS:
REMOVE ABS SPEED SENSOR FROM REAR AXLE
HOUSING
Remove the bolt and ABS speed sensor.
Torque: 8.0 N·m (82 kgf·cm, 71 in.·lbf)
4. REMOVE REAR BRAKE ASSEMBLY
2WD: See page BR–37
4WD and pre runner: See page BR–42
5. DISCONNECT BRAKE LINE AND PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(a) Using SST, disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder.
SST 09751–36011
Torque: 15 N·m (155 kgf·cm, 11 ft·lbf)
(b) 2WD:
Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the parking brake
cable.
Torque: 9.3 N·m (95 kgf·cm, 82 in.·lbf)
6. REMOVE REAR AXLE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the 4 backing plate mounting nuts.
Torque: 68 N·m (700 kgf·cm, 50 ft·lbf)
(b) Pull out the rear axle shaft assembly from the rear axle
housing.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the oil seal.
7. REMOVE O–RING FROM REAR AXLE HOUSING

To many steps..............
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 02:46 PM
  #6  
kyle_22r's Avatar
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From: Lacey, WA
screw the oil seal, just put in a new one. aren't they only like $4? just extra insurance.

a little persuasion with a dead blow hammer helps loosen up the 3rd
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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WATRD's Avatar
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From: Duvall, WA
Take it up with the folks who write the factory service manual. They are not big on cutting corners.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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From: Deep Gap, NC
I'd go the extra mile on this one for sure.

Chris
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 04:13 PM
  #9  
kyle_22r's Avatar
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From: Lacey, WA
Originally Posted by WATRD
Take it up with the folks who write the factory service manual. They are not big on cutting corners.
no kidding. in my FSM at least i think they have a test to make sure piston rings and engine bearings can be used again
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 06:03 PM
  #10  
blown2wdtoy's Avatar
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So do I have to completely remove the rear drums or can I just hold them in place so I won't have tp flush and bleed the brake system?
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 06:05 PM
  #11  
GRNTACO's Avatar
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From: On a trail in WA.
Originally Posted by blown2wdtoy
So do I have to completely remove the rear drums or can I just hold them in place so I won't have tp flush and bleed the brake system?

If you replace the oils seal you may be able to get away with that. Letting them hang there will surley damage them.
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