I'll try to make it short.... 85 4runner 22re. I am running rich, If my idle is anything below 1000 rpms, the tach arms shakes. The rpms will bounce around betweeen 800-500 and a lot of time the engine will just die. I have a new oxygen sensor, clean and balanced injectors. New fuel pump, I switched the afm with my other 22re, didn't do anything. No diagnostics code comes up. Does sound like a vacuum leak, tps or low fuel pressure, something else??? Any help would be great. thanks

 

Sounds like a vaccuum leak to me...
My engine was exactly like that when my PCV hose was torn.

If you haven't replaced the fuel filter in a while it might be a good idea to do it anyway.

 

thanks, I just replaced my pcv valve and my fuel filter about 2k miles ago. My pcv hose looks good.

 

how about your egr? mines doing that too. i need to replace the egr, gonna test the tps tomorrow, then possibly into the shop, engines under warranty

 

did you try the spraying gumout or starting fluid around the intake an hoses trick yet to check for vacuum leaks? Like others are leading to.

 

Make sure all the connectors on your injectors are secure. A loose one could cause a misfire. Have you checked your plugs to see what they look like? Also make sure you don't have an arc out of one of your spark plug wires. It also wouldn't hurt to pull the distributor cap to check it for cracks. Look at the rotor at the same time.

How do you know you are running rich?

:bounce2:

 

What is this vacuum leak trick? I will have to go check the cap and rotor again. I know it is running rich because it not only sounds rich, but it backfires a little and it sluggish at low rpms.

 

Mine was idling and dying and running rich a bit. New tps later and no more idle problems, still seems a bit rich though. Going to have to check some more things.

 

It seems a lot of things are pointing at the tps. I tried to test it according to the manual, but couldn't get it to test right. How much does a new one cost?

 

Try tapping on the EGR valve when it is idling rough. If the EGR is sticking open (common problem) that will let it close and smooth up the idle. If that helps, either clean or replace the EGR.

Other option, check the vacuum hose from the top of the fuel pressure regulator. It should run to a VSV then to the intake. For a simple test, run the vacuum line straight to the intake. The purpose of that is that at high vacuum, the FPR reduces the fuel pressure so that the engine will not run too rich at idle. And check the TPS, it is easy to do and only may need an adjustment:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

 

I did the egr tapping and moved the fuel pressure regulator line to the intake and there was no difference. I am still gonna make another attempt at the tps again. I have pictures of my vacuum lines, could I email you a couple pictures of it, Roger? Maybe one of the lines is switched up.

 

Just did the TPS test... At idle with VTA-E2 connected, I got 525. With the .57 gap, I get no reading with IDL-E2, but I do get a reading with VTA - E2. I tested my 89 22re pickup and it didn't get a reading with the .57 in either, but it runs perfect. I think I did everything correct I have read over your directions a hundred times. Any idea why I would get this? Thanks

 

You adjust the TPS to give an IDL-E2 reading of 2300 or fewer ohms at a gap of 0.57mm or less. You adjust it by turning the TPS relative to the throttle body. Do you ever get any reading on IDL-E2 even w/ 0.00 gap? The ECU uses IDL-E2 to enter the smooth idle operating mode, as opposed to a "run the engine very slow" mode, which is not as smooth.

 

I just tested IDL-E2 at idle, I got 46. Does that mean anything?

 

Depends on what you wee reading and what scale your meter was on. Assuming that "at idle" means you had the throttle closed, engine off and the TPS connector off with the meter on an ohms scale, then multiply the reading you got by the meter's scale factor to get the resistance value. If the meter were on a 20K (20000) ohm range, then a reading of 46 (probably 0.46) would be 0.46K ohms or 460 ohms, for example.

 

It was at .04 at 20k. I have the car off, throttle closed and connector off. I followed the directions carefully. it just seems weird that neither of my trucks get a reading at .57

 

That just means that both the TPS's are adjusted a little too tight or close to the fully closed throttle position. The idea is the IDL-E2 contacts sense that the throttle is closed (or nearly closed). So you just end up with a narrower idle range on the throttle. Supposed to transition a little about 0.57mm, yours must switch below.

 

You were right, I double checked the adjustment and I was able to adjust it so the .57 got a reading, while idle and .85 read what they were supposed to. It idles much much better... Thanks Roger and everyone else.