Hello all,

I know that there is an extensive (possibly more than one) write-up on sound deadening the entire truck. What I’m specifically focusing on is the door panels themselves. I’m getting a lot of panel rattle when I listen to something with a lot of bass. I’m not looking at getting the Dynamat for the sheet metal in the doors, but rather something to deaden the door panels. So is it possible to spray a can of rubber undercoating from Wal-Mart on each door and kill some/most of this rattle? Does anybody have any suggestions for this issue?


Also, I lost the inside of a pop-rivet (oak) when taking the door panel off (it fell into the inner recesses of the door, I think). Do you know where I could get a replacement rivet? As always, any and all information is appreciated.

Regards,

Brady

 

Bueller? . . .Bueller? . . .Buuuuellller?

 

I figured out a pretty cost-effective way of doing some area-specific sound deadening.

I recently put some Pioneer 6x9 speakers in the rear cargo area of my 954R, to fill the holes left by the previous owner (!) and to beef up my system a little. As I was putting them in I noticed all the open space surrounding the speakers, and wanted to find a way to close it off a little. The speakers are pretty decent quality, but when I installed them into the cavernous sidewalls of the cargo area all the low end disappeared.

After looking into Dynamat and other "pro" materials for sound deadening, and realizing how much work it would be, I figured I could come up with something better. My original plan involved foam rubber sheets, but since I couldn't find any, I went to Home Depot and bought a few packages of "Air Conditioning Weatherseal," which is pretty much long square strips of foam rubber. I also bought a couple rolls of 3M double-sided "mounting tape."

I cut the square strips in half diagonally with scissors, creating a triangular cross-section, and cut them again into roughly 10 inch pieces. I took out the 6x9s, arranged the foam strips inside of the sidewall with 3M tape, and put the speakers back in. I tried to fill up as much of the open areas as I could with the triangular sections, and for the larger spaces I used pieces of the original square stuff.

When I fired the system back up I was really surprized how much difference it made: the 6x9s are now a LOT more punchy and controlled-sounding, and there's actually a little bit of thump coming through on the bottom end where before there was nothing at all.

I bet if you filled your doors with foam rubber they'd be a lot quieter . . . I'm contemplating doing that someday in the near future, although my only concern is weather degradation. I'm hoping that because the stuff I already used is sold as a "weatherseal" it will have some degree of water-resistance.

The whole project took about 45 minutes and cost less than $10.

 

heres a link to some good sound deadening stuffpeal-n-seal

 

I just did my doors recently. Peal n Seal is good stuff. I don't have speakers in them, but they sound very solid now.

 

Yeah, I saw the thread and decided to do somethig about the "Tin can" I drive. I did the doors and the rear this weekend. What a difference!
I'm glad I found this. Iv'e had my runner for 13 years now and have always hated the fact that it was not sound proofed. And, I'm too cheap to buy the good stuff!

 

Is the stuff referenced in this thread for on the sheet metal of the doors or do you put it on the door panels themselves? Just to clarify, I'm looking for a way to stop the rattle coming FROM my door panels rather than the actual doors themselves. The PNS solution seems like something I may do while I'm at it, though. Again, thanks for the help.

 

do you mean the door skins? I used mcmaster's liquid vibration damping compound (a putty-like material) and covered both the inside of the actual doors and the reverse side of the door skins with 3 layers each. it weighs them down, so it slows down/eliminates the vibrations. incredible difference. easy to apply (like icing a cake).

i think i bought a 5 gallon bucket for $60. Cool thing is you can use it to make other things sound better (washing machine, air ducts, etc).

 

do a search. me, bob, and a bunch of others have a big ongoing thread on this, oh wait here's the links:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23183
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ight=peel+seal

 

Yeah, I must be referring to the door skins. I am talking about the thing that is taken off in this picture

so that they can put that PNS on the sheet metal of the door. I had heard something about somebody using some spray rubber undercoating from Wal-Mart for like $2.00 a can. I wish that I could find the link so I would be able to figure this out.

 

looks at post #40 in this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...3&page=1&pp=40

I think Cebby could tell you what he used.

 

Do you mean the post that you had that says ?

 

haha, I meant #34. sorry bout that.

 

you could try the 3M spray adhesive. but I thought the PNS would stick by itself, it did in mine.

 

Mine did too. I used PNS.

 

When you did your install (Cebby's post is where I grabbed the picture in my post from, by the way), did you put anything on the door panels themselves? All of the information that I'm seeing posted on here refers to the doors getting the PNS or second skin or whatever, but none of it is on the door panels themselves (at least that I have seen). I swear that some site somewhere had somebody who had coated these:

with that spray on rubber undercoating. I did a search for "sound deading" and haven't been able to find that thread where I saw the use of the undercoating. Thanks again for your help, guys. Still searching. . .

 

I didn't do anything to the door panel itself since I don't have speakers in there yet. When I throw speakers in there, I'll at least put the PNS on the metal part of the door right under the door panel. I would think a thin layer of jute spray glued to the offending plastic would help. My door panels are all the pressboard - no plastic.

 

here is a thread on another forum that I found interesting. It pertains to the topic, so i figured it would help educate some of us.

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=98510

look for posts by second skin rep. I used Rammat in my entire Tacoma DoubleCab myself.

 

here's my 2 cents:

there are 2 ways to do this:

1. change the material so the resonant frequency changes. lead is a good material. but heavy. concrete is great too. but we all know that is next to impossible (although around the mid 90's, one issue of CAR AUDIO & ELECTRONICS, a cougar, IIRC was shown with a concrete layered rear hatch area. it was done by a shop in the pittsburg area, PJ's, again IIRC. for once, i was really stunned... )

2. or you can add MASS to the material. again, this will change the resonant frequency. this is how dynamat made it's living.

back when i was really into car audio competing, and as a cheap college student, one of the things i was looking into was using roofing material. its heavy (adds mass) but was cheap.

take a look at what dynamat is...

i helped a dude install them in his car. smelly as heck. we used tons of 3m spray on adhesive. but it worked...