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Torsion bar adjustment

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Old Nov 1, 2023 | 05:46 PM
  #1  
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Torsion bar adjustment

My 92 pick up had the torsion bars wound all the way up and 3 inch spacers in threar when I got it. With the extreme angle on the cv axels. I can't drive it at speed in 4 wheel drive soI want to take out the blocks in back and lower the front. My question is I have the set up with one nut on the adjustment bolt is that nut fixed or do I need to loosen it before I can turn the bolt counter clock wise to lower it.? Any help would be appreciated
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Old Nov 2, 2023 | 07:36 AM
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Yikes. must have rode like a rock. Don't even need shocks when it's cranked that high. Awfully hard on the upper ball joints, too.
This link might help
https://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/torsion-bar-adjustment-19258.html]torsion bar adjustment

Make sure to jack the front end up high enough so both wheels are off the ground before adjusting. Easier to adjust, and you won't risk stripping the bolt.
The FSM gives measurements for setting height, but it's based on stock everything including rims and tires. Most people measure from the top of the wheel rim to the edge of the wheel house lip. Rather than constantly using a tape measure, I took a narrow board and drove long nails all the way through, the nails spaced the same distance i was shooting for between rim and wheel house. I found the measuring much easier and consistent from side to side.
​​​​​​​Did the spacer blocks in back mess with the parking brake cables?
​​​​​​​

Last edited by Jimkola; Nov 2, 2023 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2023 | 01:51 PM
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From: Southern California
you can loosen the nut a little bit but usually need too. Just jack it up and use lots of penetrating oil
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Old Nov 4, 2023 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jimkola
yikes. Must have rode like a rock. Don't even need shocks when it's cranked that high. Awfully hard on the upper ball joints, too.
This link might help
https://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/torsion-bar-adjustment-19258.html]torsion bar adjustment

make sure to jack the front end up high enough so both wheels are off the ground before adjusting. Easier to adjust, and you won't risk stripping the bolt.
The fsm gives measurements for setting height, but it's based on stock everything including rims and tires. Most people measure from the top of the wheel rim to the edge of the wheel house lip. Rather than constantly using a tape measure, i took a narrow board and drove long nails all the way through, the nails spaced the same distance i was shooting for between rim and wheel house. I found the measuring much easier and consistent from side to side.
​​​​​​​did the spacer blocks in back mess with the parking brake cables?
​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​
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Old Nov 4, 2023 | 06:48 AM
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Thanks yes it rides rougher than a cob. The spacer in back didn't interfere with the ebrake as far as I can tell . But it was right below the spring. I'm going to try to lower it today and if it goes OK get alighned next week. Dropping 3 inches I'm sure it going to need it. Thanks for the advice.
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Old Nov 4, 2023 | 04:48 PM
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Went great didn't need to try to loosen nut on top. Cranked counter clock wise on the bolt and
turned no problem. I'd heard all these horror stories about cheater bars and bolts breaking it was kind of a let down. Lowered the front about an inch and a half. Made a huge difference on the cv angles. Instead of taking out the spacers above the axel I'm just going to put more sand bags than usual this winter to level her out. Need the traction anyway here in the winter. Thanks

Last edited by Slaphappy1; Nov 4, 2023 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2023 | 05:00 PM
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I'll get her realignment this week did change camber a bunch.
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