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Needing recommendations for buying a 22re head

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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 05:35 AM
  #1  
careercriminal's Avatar
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From: southeast Missouri
Needing recommendations for buying a 22re head

I need to purchase a new head for my 22re that sits in my 94 truck.
I would like some recommendations for a reputable seller that you had purchased a head from and had good luck with the head.
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 07:21 AM
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My recommendation would be to get a bare head and transfer your oem camshaft, valves, etc
Lapping your valves to the head doesn't take much time, and all your used oem parts will be of vastly better quality than anything on a new loaded head.
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Old Jan 23, 2023 | 06:15 AM
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I bought an Enginetech complete cylinder head from RockAuto 5.5 years ago for my 92 pickup with 22RE. It's still working just fine. The head was made in Taiwan. It was a complete head with cam, springs, valves, and etc. ready to bolt on. I did buy a set of Enginetech head bolts, and then used a Toyota head gasket.

Just looked at RockAuto, and the complete cylinder head from Enginetech is not available for your 94. ITM Engine Components complete cylinder head is in stock for $337.79. An Enginetech bare cylinder head is in stock for $185.79.
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Old Feb 2, 2023 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by careercriminal
I need to purchase a new head for my 22re that sits in my 94 truck.
I would like some recommendations for a reputable seller that you had purchased a head from and had good luck with the head.
I have one brand new OEM still in box

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Old Feb 2, 2023 | 06:34 AM
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Toyota didn't sell assembled heads. Short block assemblies, yes. but not heads
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Old Feb 3, 2023 | 08:43 PM
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I bought a stock spec one from LCE in 2019, it looked like it was just a repackaged ITM head like Rock Auto has. Haven’t had any issues with it.
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Old Feb 11, 2023 | 08:41 PM
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Last May I installed a ported and polished 22RE head with an RV cam from https://sunwestautoinc.com

I have about 6,000 miles on the unit and so far it is doing fine.

Mike





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Old Feb 12, 2023 | 09:11 AM
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When someone installs an aftermarket 22R# loaded head AND has problems, the odds on favorite for issues is the camshaft. Most notably the lobes just getting ground down to nothing(rockers aren't terribly happy at this point, either) and sending debris all through the engine.
Now, I've read many theories, and some sound reasonable.
1) The cam material is inferior(soft). Good possibility. I think the rather involved break-in instructions that are recommended with these cheap aftermarket cams reflect this.
2) The springs are stiff. I compared used oem to new aftermarket and the aftermarket springs seemed much stiffer. but I had no accurate way of measuring just how much stiffer.
3) the valve lip on the aftermarket is thicker, along with the washer plater and retainer, making the spring even stiffer. in my case, those individual components were noticeably thicker. I didn't bother to measure by how much. The theory was the thicker pieces decreased the area where the spring goes, increasing the spring tension and increasing the resistance on the rocker. Sounds plausible.

Maybe if you follow the break-in instructions to the letter it tempers the cam.
i dunno. After dealing with one camshaft that got worn to hell in a few hundred miles, sending aluminum and steel debris all through my engine, I opted for installing used oem valves, hardware, and cam.
But, as mentioned, others have installed loaded heads with no issues. Jut be attentive.

Last edited by Jimkola; Feb 13, 2023 at 06:03 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimkola
When someone installs an aftermarket 22R# loaded head AND has problems, the odds on favorite for issues is the camshaft. Most notably the lobes just getting ground down to nothing(rockers aren't terribly happy at this point, either) and sending debris all through the engine.
Now, I've read many theories, and some sound reasonable.
1) The cam material is inferior(soft). Good possibility. I think the rather involved break-in instructions that are recommended with these cheap aftermarket cams reflect this.
2) The springs are stiff. I compared used oem to new aftermarket and the aftermarket springs seemed much stiffer. but I had no accurate way of measuring just how much stiffer.
3) the valve lip on the aftermarket is thicker, along with the washer plater and retainer, making the spring even stiffer. in my case, those individual components were noticeably thicker. I didn't bother to measure by how much. The theory was the thicker pieces decreased the area where the spring goes, increasing the spring tension and increasing the resistance on the rocker. Sounds plausible.

Maybe if you follow the break-in instructions to the letter it tempers the cam.
i dunno. After dealing with one camshaft that got worn to hell in a few hundred miles, sending aluminum and steel debris all through my engine, I opted for installing used oem valves, hardware, and cam.
But, as mentioned, others have installed loaded heads with no issues. Jut be attentive.
That is exactly what happened to my sons camshaft..got ground right down at rear of camshaft. He thought maybe not heat treated. Forget who the seller was. I would have head done by local shop or reputable seller..cheap parts are for poor folks,,and ya know the saying "poor man pay twice"
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 02:52 PM
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Do you still have this head, If so how much for it
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 02:57 PM
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From: Dallas, TX & Appleton, WI
Originally Posted by semcoinc
Last May I installed a ported and polished 22RE head with an RV cam from https://sunwestautoinc.com

I have about 6,000 miles on the unit and so far it is doing fine.

Mike




My cylinder head and cam are still doing well with about 15,000 miles on it.

Mike
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 06:33 PM
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Good job. How did you break it in?
Also, did you re-torque it?
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Freewheel
Good job. How did you break it in?
Also, did you re-torque it?

This is what I did for break-in. I did not retorque the head.

  1. Liberally apply red tacky grease on cam lobes..
  2. Start the engine and immediately raise rpm to 3,000.
  3. Vary rpm between 1,500 and 3,000 for the next 20-30 minutes.
    1. Use a slow, steady acceleration/deceleration pattern.
  4. Shut down the engine and let it cool.
  5. Drain the oil and change the oil filter.
    1. This removes any metal particles from the break-in process.
  6. Refill the engine with 30W break-in oil.
The initial break-in is now complete. After the next 500 miles of normal driving, change the oil and oil filter again.
  • If you choose a synthetic oil, we recommend putting about 5,000 miles on the camshaft with conventional oil before switching.
Mike
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 05:22 PM
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Hey still have the cylinder head

Originally Posted by alabowles
I have one brand new OEM still in box
still have it??
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