Hi Guys. I've got a very clean stock 85 DLX 4Runner that seems to have spun a rod at 80k miles. Yes, there was oil in the motor. No I haven't had it apart yet. After it clattered upon starting, I drove 3 miles home, then next day drove it 3 miles to my mechanic. First time they started it, it seemed fine, but the next morning, they started it and it clattered. They told me it probably spun a rod. I had it flatbedded home.

Here in Santa Fe, I've been quoted $5-6k for a removal/rebuild/reinstall. There is a shop in Albuquerque that will do it for $2800. He claims to have done 140 Toyota 4cyl rebuilds with zero failures excepting a few oil drips which he fixed.

My questions are::

Is there a checklist of what should be done on a full rebuild?
Can you recommend critical specific parts that should be used for the rebuild to assure best quality?
What needs to be replaced while the engine is pulled?
12 mo/12k mile warranty sufficient?

I am not mechanically inclined, but I am not entirely ignorant. All suggestions appreciated!

 

$2800 seems low, but if it's for real, that could be a great deal. i spent close to that having the 22re in '87 4runner #2 rebuilt, with the machine shop doing the shortblock and head, and i put the stuff back together - head gasket, head, valve cover, manifold, intake plenum, etc.. it has been great; it has more power, and i get better mpg with it than i do in '87 4runner #1 with the orignal 22re.

do whatever is necessary to retain the head if it is original (even if it costs quite a bit), as an aftermarket head just won't be as good. have the shop source oem/toyota valvetrain components.

find out how long the "down time" will be for the $2800 job. if the shop really does have the experience with 22re motors, that is a good thing.

 

If this engine truly has 80k on it, you may not be in need of a full rebuild. Some things cannot be determined until it is apart.
Spinning a bearing at 80k would be unusual but breaking timing chain guides at 37 years would not be. In any case, use Toyota parts if available, and as Wally suggests, go to the shop with Toyota experience.

 

Definitely needs to come apart for inspection to know anything FOR SURE. Otherwise you're guessing. I've rebuilt a few. I just had to pay for parts and machine work. It's easy to get ripped off by a dishonest shop if you don't know anything so do your research.

The block needs to be inspected. Usually only needs a bore and hone if no catastrophic engine failure. Often it needs to be decked. If it needs to be decked, the timing chain cover needs to be bolted on so the head to cover mating surface matches. Proper pistons and rings ordered to match over bore.

The crank needs to be mic'd. Usually needs to be turned but sometimes just a polish will clean it up. New main and rod bearings need to match if turned.

The connecting rods usually need to be resized but not always. They DO need new bushings in the small end.

The oil pump can often be resealed and reused but a new one is in most parts kits.

Upgrade the timing set. Metal guides at least.

OEM head is better than most aftermarket Chinese ones. They can be straightened before being surfaced to minimize how much is shaved off. New guides and seals. Springs IF needed. Valve grind. Camshaft is usually reusable. Rocker shafts need to come apart for inspection and cleaning. Rocker arms can be resurfaced. New adjusting bolts are often needed.

You can't order parts until the machine shop tells you what size pistons, rings and bearings. OEM parts are usually best but there are quality aftermarket parts. Ask machine shop or check reviews online. Stock replacement parts are usually fine. High performance is expensive and not always a must. Timin chain set is a good upgrade though.

Have the machine shop clean all your parts including your intake manifold. I usually get my injectors serviced while waiting for my machine work.

If flywheel needs resurface, now is the time to do it. How is the clutch?

Have the radiator serviced or replaced (if needed) while engine is out.

80K miles is not typically engine rebuild time for a 22RE. Maybe you will get away with a repair of whatever is making the noise. An honest shop will let you know. Get more than one opinion.

Good luck with your truck. Post up what you find because dead end threads suck.

 

To add, I have spun a rod bearing on a non Toyota. It sounds like a ball pien hammer inside the engine. It DOES NOT go away the next day and come back again another day. The timing chain on the 22RE has a tensioner that uses oil pressure. Like mentioned, I have to wonder if you may just need a timing chain set. Don't drive it like it is but don't assume it's toast and just hand it off to a shop for rebuild without further inspection.

You can pull your oil pan drain plug and look for metal in the oil. Pull the valve cover and look down and check the timing chain. Oil filters can be cut open and checked for metal from engine failure. The timing chain can eventually cut through the timing cover until coolant gets into you oil.

I'm hoping the best for you. Don't get ripped off, do your homework. Good luck.

 

Thank you, guys! This is exactly the information I was looking for. I've discussed it with my engine mechanic, and he agrees that it is most likely timing chain guide. Hopefully, the valves are spared. We will know more when he takes it apart in a few weeks.
Again, thanks!

 

I'd be asking myself why 1/2 the price of other shops and at what cost. I recently did the engine in my '86. Stage 2 build from 22RE out of Chico. That build cost me close to 4k with trading in a bunch of cores. I still had to furnish to myself the water pump, all the ignition parts, oil, filter, coolant, clutch parts, belts, hoses etc and still had to install it myself. You get what you pay for. I'm thinking the build you would get from him would be marginal at best.

 

Speaking from experience, the shop with the cheapest estimate might not be the best. You really need an itemized estimate from each shop to compare apples to apples. One thing you will come across a lot in the automotive industry is guys that lowball you to get you in the door, then sit on your rig for months and end up charging you a bundle for shoddy work. A sure sign of this type of mechanic is a yard full of derelict vehicles of all sorts. $2800 may seem like a deal, but if you gotta ride the guy like a rented mule to get any work out of him it will not be worth it.

 

I'm currently looking for shops that do this type of work. I bought a 1990 w/a 22re that I'd like to have overhauled to the point where I could use it as a reliable camping rig.

I'm located in ABQ and would prefer to stay local. Could you please share your experience and maybe who you went with?

 

I used a guy in Los Lunas that works out of his house.
He only does Toyota motors and has 20 years experience. He was significantly less expensive than shops in Santa Fe. It took quite a while, he was a terrible communicator, and the price went up because I wanted OEM parts. That said, the motor came out great..

I don’t know if you could do better in Albuquerque proper…I would consider looking.