89 4Runner new clutch master cylinder & slave cylinder and still won’t go into gear
#1
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From: south bay, so.cal.
89 4Runner new clutch master cylinder & slave cylinder and still won’t go into gear
So my clutch pedal went all the way to the floor I checked the clutch master cylinder and the reservoir was empty turns out the seal the connects the reservoir to the master cylinder was no good so I replaced the whole unit and also replaced the the slave cylinder at the same time bleed all the air out until the slave cylinder was shooting out a nice solid stream of fluid and still no pressure in the clutch pedal but noticed the shaft on the new slave cylinder barely moves like 1/4 - 1/2 inch with the system bled , my buddy is telling me my clutch is no good but I’m having a hard time believing that. Do you guys think my clutch replaced?
I’ve been having to fill my clutch master cylinder reservoir like every 3-4 months because it was leaking which other then that the clutch has always felt solid. Any advice would be appreciated at this point. I don’t know maybe the shaft the connects from the clutch master cylinder to the pedal isn’t adjusted correctly ?
I’ve been having to fill my clutch master cylinder reservoir like every 3-4 months because it was leaking which other then that the clutch has always felt solid. Any advice would be appreciated at this point. I don’t know maybe the shaft the connects from the clutch master cylinder to the pedal isn’t adjusted correctly ?
#2
There's an adjustment on the clutch pedal, a stop. 2wd and 4wd trucks vary in this a small amount. With carpet pulled back the pedal should be just shy of about 6 inches from the floor at top height.
It's from here you adjust out the clutch rod to take out the slack.
Check clutch pedal bucket for cracks, it's common and will keep the clutch from disengaging.
It's from here you adjust out the clutch rod to take out the slack.
Check clutch pedal bucket for cracks, it's common and will keep the clutch from disengaging.
#3
If the slave is not moving it's not your clutch. I would have to say check the master cylinder linkage to the clutch peddle for proper adjustment. The peddle might depress, but not push the link far enough to engage the slave cylinder. If it's all clear liquid in a solid stream coming out then it's not a air pocket issue. Check you clutch housing lever the salve presses on to see if it's bent backwards or is cracked and bent.
#7
Ebay or online salvage yards. Try a weld shop or Craigslist mobile welder to have them align and weld repair it. They can also add some additional support. Might be the cheapest alternate.
Last edited by JoeS; Nov 6, 2022 at 11:15 AM.
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#9
I had a independent shop do mine in 2008. Parts $152.39, labor $295.00. I assume that he sourced parts from Toyota parts dept @ local dealer. I would expect that Toyota will have updated and strengthened replacement part. I'm a good welder and have access to the equipment, but too much hassle here in my old age...I HATE working on or under the dash on any car!
#10
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Ok so quick update on this it turns out autozone sold me a defective clutch master cylinder so got that exchanged and installed I know have pressure in the clutch pedal but turns out the bracket that holds the clutch pedal is cracked so it’s flexing when you push the pedal in. The independent shop that’s working on my truck just quoted me three hours of labor to remove and put back the bracket they are saying the steering column has to come down and at $130 an hour that’s pretty expensive $390 and then I would have to take it to a welder to weld up the crack not sure what he’s gonna charge does all this sound about right to you guys ?
Is it really that much work to remove and put that bracket back on where the steering column has to come down ?
Is it really that much work to remove and put that bracket back on where the steering column has to come down ?
#11
Seen used ones w/o cracks on Ebay for ~$200. .No welding needed or can add reinforcement to be safe.Try using a Craigslist mobile welder. They charge less per hour than a shop. It's not a tough weld job if it's out the truck.
Form the pics it looks like there is a top support section that require the steering shaft to be slipped out. That's my guess as I've never replaced mine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26456410440...Bk9SR5ijws2PYQ
Form the pics it looks like there is a top support section that require the steering shaft to be slipped out. That's my guess as I've never replaced mine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26456410440...Bk9SR5ijws2PYQ
Last edited by JoeS; Nov 15, 2022 at 11:05 AM.
#12
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Quick update independent shop charged me $300 to remove and put back clutch pedal bracket and local muffler shop shop charged me $40 to weld up the bracket problem solved , thanks for all the info guys ✊🏽
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