I had my 86 SR5 worked on at a shop. It had ran really hot over day, and I shut it off. Clutch fan was good, water pump was good, put new thermostat in. The shop guy said it was the head gasket blown. Since they were tearing it down any ways, I had them to put new valve seals in, and I had a new timing chain set with oil pump and water pump too(with the metal guides). I got the truck back, and had to take it back 3 times. They never got it fixed. Has no power at all. I don't even think it's timed right. Cost me a thousand dollars for the repairs, and about $800 in parts I had bought. Come to find out, when the shop took off my head, he never did even resurface it, after it running that hot. For that price, I could of bought a good rebuilt engine and put it in. People don't take pride in their work any more. Ive spent about $600 on other stuff I've had to do since I got the truck back, and it still doesn't run near as good as it did, and it won't cut as good as it used to, with almost every part in the front end new. What would you suggest?

 

No guarantee of good work, no matter what you pay.
Only way is to source your own high quality parts and hold your own tools.
As to the engine power issues, gotta start with the basics, verify valve timing, compression test
, insure idle speed and TPS in correct adjustment before jumpering and setting timing,,
Check fuel pressure....... enough to start..

 

I checked the obd1 test, and it was 5, 7, and 11. One was a oxygen sensor, and 2 were TPS related

 

The TPS sure can mess with power and shift points

 

I'd check to see if the distributer adjusting bolt is fairly well centered in the slot. Same with the TPS. If the distributer isn't centered that could indicate the distributer is off a tooth, or possibly the timing chain. If the distributer is ok, but the TPS is off to one side they may have set it wrong.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to do a chemical block check just to confirm they got that fixed.

Weird to see so many repair shops struggle with the 22R#. I can remember when it was the dominant powerplant out there in sheer numbers, and every tech knew its idiosyncrasies. Pretty easy engine bay to work in, too. And not THAT much is hidden from view, not like today's engines. If they can't get a 22R# squared away lord help the Prius owner that wanders into that shop.

 

unless it's a turbo version...ask me how I know.

 

Make sure the distributor bolt is well centered? What do you mean? The bolt only goes in one way. I'm sure the timing is off. According to my obd1 check, there are two TPS related issues, and one issue with the oxygen sensor

 

The distributer has a slotted hole where the adjusting bolt locks it in place. While the slot gives you the ability to advance or retard timing, when the timing is set to spec the bolt should be somewhat centered in that slot. If you set timing and find that the distributer is heavily favoring one side, close to max either way, that could indicate an issue elsewhere.
I ask because if you tell me timing has been set to spec, and the bolt is pretty much centered in the slot, I can rule out other possibilities, like timing chain or distributer being off a tooth.

I’ve posted a few times how to set TPS with a timing light, a vastly better way than the FSM method. I wouldn’t worry about the O2 code for now. That very well could resolve itself once the timing/TPS is dialed in.

 

I took the throttle body off, and cleaned it as good as I could with carb cleaner. Id got a brand new TPS and barely put the screws in loose. Checked the readings for the 2nd and 3rd test and thought I had it set good, tightened down the top screw, set it, and tightened down the 2nd screw. It ran horrible when I tried to drive to the auction last night, so I stayed home. I did the OBD1 test with the wire jumper this morning. It's still showing codes 5, and 7...both TPS codes. But the code 11, about the oxygen sensor, is gone. Still don't know what to do. Gonna take off the ground cable, and reset it in a few minutes, cause I didn't reset it, after I put on the new TPS.

 

did you use the timing light method of setting the TPS as described elsewhere by jimkola? or how did you set it if another method?

 

No, I didn't use the timing light method. I used the TPS method on the site. Used the jumper wire under the hood, on the drivers side. From my understanding, I thought you had to set the TPS using that method, and then check the timing with a timing light, after you had put the jumper wire in. That's what I've heard for a long time

 

i'd recommend searching for his thread on setting the TPS using a timing light. it is WAY easier, and more accurate, than using the FSM method.

 

The shortcoming of the early Toyota FSM electrical section is many of the specifications and methods listed in the manual were derived with the components sitting on a bench, not installed in the vehicle. That’s why it’s not uncommon to test a component, say a gauge, and have it fail based on book spec, but another gauge behaves the same way.
The book method of setting a TPS has the sensor isolated. The timing light method(one that Toyota’s 800 tech line came to embrace) has you setting the TPS while it’s integrated into the system.