Hi everyone,
Thanks for providing this vast knowledge base.
I have a starting issue with my '97 4runner LTD. Relays are good. Fuses are good. Starter is good. Battery has plenty of juice.
Disconnect the battery. Let all systems discharge. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key. Fires right up. Shut off ignition. Turn the key, and no start. ..until the battery is disconnected again.
I am at a total loss here. Ideas? Good jabs from the peanut gallery?
Thanks, Peter B

 

Buy off the Toyota dealer Lot Brand New?
How long did things work correct before this started ??
Are We dealing with a 3.4 ??Auto or Manual?

You have completely ruled out poor battery terminal connections and your removing them makes things work for a very short time.

Is there an Alarm or parts of one?? Remote start system ??that you might not know of. the alarm is disconnected when the negative battery is disconnected you crank the truck it starts .

you shut the ignition off resetting the alarm the truck does not crank

There are no capacitors in the starting circuit from the factory to discharge .who knows what may have been done.

Sorry I can not help you with Satan if You had said Loki that I could understand.

 

There are 302k miles on this one. I've had a couple of years in it, and I know both previous owners personally.
It's an auto transmission (yes I checked the neutral start switch).
No remote start. No Alarm.
The terminals are squeaky clean.
Loki is currently gnawing on the upholstery.

I'm just worried that there is some voltage comparator function in the ECU that is dying, or there is some other interlock feed to the ECU from the mess of crap about the shifter. The wire diagram shows that the volt high signal from the ignition switch is sent to the ECU through two terminals: NSW and STA. The signal to STA also must pass the neutral start switch. If the two signals don't match maybe the ECU sends the power to ground? ..or maybe the comparator is failing and thinks they don't match?
Just spitballing. Please shoot me down in flames.

 

Did you do any work or remember anything strange before it started ?

At any time have any codes been pulled ??

though they tend to shut off fuel then keep it from cranking .

I don`t know much about the automatics I never learned to drive one. Do some transmission codes keep the vehicle from cranking to prevent more damage?? Disconnecting the battery would clear the code.

With no alarm I think looking at the neutral safety switch and the gear shift being in the correct position but not according to what the transmission computer thinks it sees

Good Luck

 

For the neutral safety switch, a scanner would tell you what the computer sees.

I'm not aware of any codes that would cause a no crank situation, I tend to agree, most likely fuel or ignition would be cut before cranking would be disabled (just security systems do that I think).

Do you have a multi meter? Could potentially find the issue probing around a bit blindly. When you can't crank, does anything else not work?

I don't remember for sure, but doesn't the 4runner have an in dash display of what gear you're in? If it's light base (I know Camry's are), then that's a work around from having to scan to test what the computer sees for the gear (assuming wiring is good).

Anyway, I pulled up the wire diagram for your truck, there's really not a whole lot to go wrong, there's the starter relay, solenoid, neutral/park switch. The ECU has a tap on the starting circuit, but it doesn't directly control it. The ignition switch provides the power, and the ground goes through the P/N switch to the Cowl side panel ground (RH).



Anyway, it's a bit backwards logic, but maybe you have a bad connection on the battery terminals? My experience with that is that it will spark and not start though, not start up fine then loose connection.

Another thing to check, is does it click at all when you try to start when it's messing up? The starter relay and starter solenoid should both be clicking (the big click is the starter solenoid, if it clicks you know the relay is working). It's possible the solenoid contacts are worn out and hitting the starter a few times might make it work once in a while. Technically the relay could be going bad too, but I think they generally outright fail when they go bad.

Good luck and let us know if you find anything, hopefully you have it fixed since it's been over a month.

 

Could be the contacts in the solenoid on the starter, or the connection to the solenoid. There is also a few spots to check in the fuse box under the hood.

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I have it, or at least it has been a week with no issues. At some point the terminal was replaced and there is a weird bolt-together connection in the mess about a foot down from the battery. At that connection the primary lead heads to the starter and the chassis power heads to the distribution block. That connection was loose and corroded. What a pain in the a**. Now it's time to figure out if this was done because they shortened those leads too much, replace, and/or properly swage them to a terminal.

 

Glad you found it!!

At some point the battery terminals or cables must have been changed this was the fix to make things work while it worked it was never corrected.

For sure not stock Both the Positive to the Starter and the positive to the fuse block should come direct off the battery terminal.

I use Marine Terminals that have a post and nut then use crimped on lugs when doing the battery cable upgrades

 

Since you are in Michigan, make sure the wiring is sealed very well, salt gets in the tiniest hole and corrodes wires. I have supplies to make battery cables at 6 gauge with a proper crimper and sealing heat shrink, but I'm not sure what the stock sized wire is. My eyelets on each end are 6mm (1/4in), might be a size too small for the stock battery clamp cable bolt. My supplies were for upgrading atv battery cables.

Some Toyota's had a factory junction box between the starter and battery, quite a few people have reported issues with them, they aren't water proofed so the salt water can get in them. A photo of what you have would explain what it is, aftermarket or OEM. Either case a new battery cable is pretty easy to make with the right tools, shouldn't cost too much. I think stores like NAPA can build custom cables for you, they atleast do custom hydraulic hoses. Which ever route you go, make sure the wire that gets used is battery cable grade, it should have lots and lots of fine wires (more the better, also more flexible)