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1990 pickup 3VZE feels like its dropping power

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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 02:35 AM
  #1  
Doug Nelson's Avatar
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From: Colorado
1990 pickup 3VZE feels like its dropping power

Ok so I'm new to the whole forum thing but i figured any help is better than just throwing parts at it at random until it fixes it, so go easy on me.

Ok so my truck has the 3.0 and a week or so ago it started to sputter and lose power almost like its cutting fuel or something similar after 2500 RPM's but its only when its under load if i have it in neutral or the clutch is pressed it'll rev out just fine. And with it doing what it is, it is awful trying to drive even around town, trying to keep the RPM's down is making it to where I can hardly get to 55 MPH on the highway.

I did an oil change, plugs, wires, distributor, and rotor a few days ago thinking a bit of a tune up may help, but it didnt help that problem. Its got all brand new vaccum lines due to an issue I was having a few months back. So I'm fairly certain that its at least not a leak in the lines, with how fickle these motors can be about vacuum leaks I'm going to check anyway.

Not sure if I gave enough info but thats all I can think of at the moment, just trying to see if anyones had similar issues and possibly a direction to point me in at this point anything helps thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 12:33 PM
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how many miles on it?
Did it have the head gaskets fixed under the recall?
Run a compression test, the 3.0 likes to blow head gaskets around 160K+
not saying it is definitely a head gasket issue but could be...
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 12:49 PM
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Its about to turn over 200K, got it at around 170K. Haven't done the head gaskets since i got it 3 years ago, will probably do that soon. If it were the head gasket wouldn't it be a consistent issue and not intermittent, I guess I should have put that in my original post oops. I just had to drive to the next town over about 14 miles and it acted like it was perfectly fine.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 05:57 AM
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Any check engine codes? Even if the light isnt on, there may be codes stored. May be helpful to check.

Checked the fuel filter/ pump? Checked all electrical grounds? Checked the AFM and TPS? Air leaks after the AFM in the intake tubes? Could be a ton of things.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 09:47 AM
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No engine codes and no check engine light. The fuel pump and filter got replaced in December. I've got no leaks on any of the intake boots and have tried 2 or 3 AFM's. Haven't checked grounds yet I'll do that today. And I have a replacement TPS but apparently thats a pain to do, so I've been putting it off honestly

It may have been my fuel pressure regulator got gummed up. It felt like it was cutting fuel, so I figured mabey the rest of the fuel system needed some love after 30 years of neglect and probably having some nasty gas ran through it. So I replaced that yesterday and it hasn't done it again yet. It was an intermittent problem, so that might not have been it but I'll keep an eye on it and let yall know.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 11:25 AM
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The pressure regulator, or the pulsation damper, at the inlet to the fuel rail. That can get gummed up just as easily, if not more, as the pressure regulator. Just bear in mind it use crush washers, and they can NOT be reused. Always replace one that has been tightened down onto, even just a little.
Also, make certain the vacuum line going to both the pressure regulator, and to the pulsation damper, are both in good shape, and going to the right places.

The TPS installation isn't bad at all. Even the alignment isn't all THAT bad. A little bit of a pita, but overall, not too bad at all.

Good luck!
Pat☺
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 11:31 AM
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I'll give that a shot when i get back to the house on monday, and the crush washer thing ill be sure to get a new one when i go to get the parts
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
The pressure regulator, or the pulsation damper, at the inlet to the fuel rail. That can get gummed up just as easily, if not more, as the pressure regulator. Just bear in mind it use crush washers, and they can NOT be reused. Always replace one that has been tightened down onto, even just a little.
Also, make certain the vacuum line going to both the pressure regulator, and to the pulsation damper, are both in good shape, and going to the right places.

The TPS installation isn't bad at all. Even the alignment isn't all THAT bad. A little bit of a pita, but overall, not too bad at all.

Good luck!
Pat☺
This. Had mine blow out on my 93 years ago, it's a known problem on the 3vz. Your problem definitely sounds fuel pressure related.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 11:00 AM
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From: Chiloquin, OR
Originally Posted by Doug Nelson
I'll give that a shot when i get back to the house on monday, and the crush washer thing ill be sure to get a new one when i go to get the parts
I think you need 2 for the pulsation damper. One where the fuel line enters the pulsation damper, and one where the PD attaches to the fuel rail.

It's a good idea to get a couple of sets of crush washers. They are malicious little things. Invariably, if you only have one to install, it will leap, yes LEAP, out of your hand while you're trying to install it, fall down all the way to the ground, and vanish. It sounds incredible, but it happens every time. Malicious, I tell ya.
They don't do it, as much, anyway, when you have another set of washers available. They see the futility of it, and are cowed. Keeps the suicide leaps to a minimum.

You've been warned!
Pat☺
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