So im still on my friends 87 4runner. Almost got it done. Having a few issues. Upon disassembly i noted there were no bolts with washers under the hub goin into the cv shaft, either side. So i order new ones from toyota

Upon attempting to install I noticed that CV was too far into the hub to grab the threads. or the hub was too thick, or my bolts are too short..... I have old MM hubs on here and Im hopin thats the reason this is happening. Anyone have any experience here?

Also, on a fun note. After assembly and test drive I noticed a leak from the front end and found this....

All of my front end work here started with this dumb short side shaft. It had went and gone all floppy in the factory open carrier, So the carrier was swapped out for a Truetrac. I noticed slight wear on the stub shaft where it had been flopping, not terrible to my inexperienced eye, but why would a stub kick out like this at all? My test drive was up and down the street, no speed bumps or nuthin....
Any and all input, insults and indifference is welcome. Thanks for the awesome site

 

I pulled it apart and found nothing obviously wrong. I changed the snap ring on the stub shaft to a new one. Test drove it today and it popped back out again.
I recently put on a BJ spacer from 4crawler and put some taller bumps on the droop side of the control arm. I thought I had limited the travel enough but, could this be from over extending the cv's? How is everybody else getting away with BJ spacers? If I adjust the torsion bars to where the cvs arent too angled, Im back at the same height I started at.

 

It is likely that the axle stub is not going into the carrier far enough for the snap ring to go into place.

Can you hear, or feel the ring 'click' into place when you stab the stub??

I doubt the BJ spacers have anything to do with the issue.

I had to grind the inside face of the axle stub a sixteenth of an inch, or so, to get the stub to lock into a Trutrac carrier once.

 

I will look into that. Thank you. I posted this query on a number of sites. I even posted on Pirate I am so desperate, you can guess how that went...

 

I saw your post on Pirate, and I'd like to clear up a misconception I think you have about what I think your issue might be.

In the case I encountered, It was not that the carrier had been shimmed too deeply, making the axle stub effectively too short to lock in.....

I don't think that is possible.

But rather that the inner end of the axle stub contacted the carriers' center pin (or what passes for that in a Trutrac) before the snap ring could find its detent.

That is why grinding a tad off the inner end of the axle stub was able to solve my issue.

In my case, I was fording a wash with my brand new posi when the axle walked out, and filled up the diff with muddy water. Not a fun day..

 

Thanks for that, I appreciate it. I was already fired up when I read the BS over there. I knew I should have stayed away... I did end up shimming a bit, but I will double check I am not bottoming out first. I have been wrong before. I'll report back with findings.

 

The shims have to be what they have to be, in order to control ring and pinion backlash and carrier preload. Can't really do anything about that.

Interested to hear what you find.

 

Took almost .080" off the tip and its grabbing now. Not a lot of confidence in the snap ring tho. Seems too easy to pop out still. its obviously different than before. It has a definite resistance to coming out but not as much as the other side. I'm debating taking another .020" to be sure its deep enough. I'm wondering if i have it to the point where its just grabbing.... tedious I tell you.

 

If the ring is solidly centered in its detent, you ought to get a feel of very slight play, both in and out, against the ring groove when it is locked in.

 

I ended up taking it up to the splines. I can feel slight play in and out once it is seated. Still prys out too easily. Aaaaaand pops out on a test drive.
The OG problem, that started all this nonsense, a floppy stub in the factory open carrier, was remedied by swapping to a Truetrac instead another open diff. Its stupid expensive for an new open carrier.
The stub shaft showed minor wear where it went thru the open carriers machined surface. This was the non needle bearing version.
I'm wondering if the stub is too worn and is allowing too much up down play? Letting if move around around pop out easier?
I can get a new stub for 96$
Pulling the BJ spacers, the cvs just seem too extreme, even at ride height.
They were installed to level it with the rear. It got OME HD springs in the rear and it might be too much, the truck sees heavy loads, but...

 

So I ended up getting a new stub from toyota and slapped it in a few months ago. Took the same amount off the end of the shaft. I should have reported back at that time, sorry y'all. Everything seemed good, tested it in 4wd but just driving, no real spinning or load on it...
Then it finally snowed in CO.... owner needed 4wd for the first time since "fixing" it and it spit back out. Running out of ideas.

Should I make a .25 spacer for the cv? I know a diff drop isnt available but I am creative and weld things sometimes...
Offset diff laterally at the mounts?
It still has the BJ spacers, 1.5", dont really want to pull them like I said I would. I could put them in my lathe and face them down to 1"...