Hey guys. First post here. I’m sure this is the wrong forum for this post too so feel free to give me ˟˟˟˟ but I need some help from the only community that can help... I’m looking at buying a 91 Toyota pickup. RWD. Standard. All original with 225k miles. Haven’t seen it in person yet, but from the pictures the truck looks pretty straight for being 30 years old. If anything it’s just really dirty, like the guy hadn’t cleaned it since he bought it, along with some ugly wheels. Paint is a little rough but not too concerned about that. Guy says it doesn’t leak or burn oil, no signs of bad head gasket, and runs like a champ. He wants $3k, which I don’t think is a bad price but I wanted to get some opinions before I pull the trigger. My concerns are with it being all original, I have no doubt in the reputation and reliability of these trucks but It’ll be used for daily driving to work so I’m not putting all the miles on my 10’ Tacoma. I’ll be putting time/$ right away no doubt, just don’t want a $3k roller. I’m going to go check it out tomorrow, anything on these trucks to look out for? Let me know what ya think. I appreciate any input dudes!!

 

If what he says is true, and I'd be inclined to accept that info; It's a real deal. Send me a PM and I'll give you my experience with my '89 2wd 22RE 5spd bought used with 150,000 miles or so...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tickys-242840/

Clutch pedal hanger bracket. Timing chain and associated items... probably a few more

V-6 or four banger?

 

3k doesn’t sound bad assuming it’s in decent shape and working order. Used ones on craigslist near me in Central NC go for 5k even in rough running shape.

I’m not very familiar with the 22RE, but if it’s the V6 3VZE they are known for head gaskets gone bad. Not a terrible job compared to more modern cars.

The V6 has a MESS of vacuum lines and smog stuff on the passenger side. I personally deleted the EGR and PAIR valve but even with it still connected it’s not too bad to work around. I would definitely replace all the vacuum lines regardless of the motor though.

I kind of doubt at that mileage that it doesn’t leak or burn oil, but it’s possible.

If your worried about rust, just peel up the carpet on the inside and check especially near the corners and body mounts. Check under a plastic bed liner if it has one too. Lastly Check the bottom corners of the windshield near the chrome trim pieces (infamous for rust there)

Good luck, hopefully it’s in great shape!

 

There's a couple things that we need to take into consideration here.

1) What's so special about your 2010 Tacoma that you want to keep the miles off of it?

2) 90-95 Pickups are/were extremely reliable when they were new but now they're well into that 30 year old mark, Being that this thing is all original with 225k miles, it's probably safe to assume you're gonna have to dump time and money into it.

I'd just keep the money in your pocket and keep driving the 2010 Tacoma, if i were you

 

It's all about a solid frame and no rust below the surface. It's no fun when you go to replace something and bolts start breaking due to rust. Look inside the frame rails where you can, these box frames rust from the inside out.

 

My thoughts?
First of all, don't risk telling everyone on this forum to "feel free to give me ****", you are literally asking for trouble!!!!
Secondly, where are you? and where is the truck? location matters when it comes to value and rust. A 30 year old 2wd truck is not worth much in Alaska, but might be worth the $3K asking price in your neighborhood.
Thirdly, Paul22RE mentioned a solid frame, I have been given trucks in the past because the frame was rusted. I only accepted because I wanted the front axle and the transmission, the rest went to the crusher. Check the frame where the front eye of the rear leaf springs mount, that's the worst spot for rust as far as I have seen.
And lastly, as MaK92-4RnR said, you will probably be money ahead to just fold the 3k in half and stick it back in your pocket.