When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I did my timing chain / water pump replacement about a year ago and have been chasing some oil loss (was already before that but still am is the point - still a mystery, spark plugs look great and I don't have any blue smoke, but I'm defnitely losing oil so idk. Compression is 165 across all 4 cylinders). At first I thought it was burning it, but I'm definitely seeing some leakage as well. I definitely have some from the timing chain cover (maybe the Fel-Pro one I bought wasn't very good or maybe I just didn't do a good job of seating it) but it seems like this area in the photo is the biggest culprit. It goes into the water pump - I'm pretty sure its a coolant line, but there's oil coming from it? Not 100% sure.
Have you checked the bottom of the oil pump? Or the crankshaft where it comes out of the oil pump? Both places are likely suspects.
If the oil pump gasket got pinched during installation, it can leak. It can happen anywhere around the oil pump. Like right near that small pipe you have circled.
There's an easy way to hold it in place when installing the oil pump. Take a toothpick, or something similar, and put a small dab of heavy grease, similar to what you would use to lube the U-Joints in the drive shaft, into the groove around the oil pump the gasket sits in. Put a dab at the corners, and a few along the straighter areas. It will hold the gasket onto the oil pump, which will keep it from getting pinched during installation.
Another possibility, is that you didn't replace the main front seal, the one IN the oil pump, that seals the crankshaft, when you removed all the other stuff. If it's been long enough, quite often it can wear a groove into the crankshaft.
They make seals that fit exactly the same in the oil pump, and around the crankshaft, but rides on the crankshaft in a slightly different position, thus avoiding the groove. Also, if you didn't replace that front main seal, it could just be worn out. Thus leaking oil.
The picture you show is indeed water. IIRC, the small pipe going to the rear is the heater pipe, I believe. It feeds back to the hose that goes up to the heater control valve. Again, I believe.
The real big pipe it's bolted below is from what's called the jumper pipe. The bottom radiator hose goes to that jumper pipe, which goes in a U up to just below and behind the water pump. Right under the power steering pump. Then there is a J shaped radiator hose, about the same ID as the bottom radiator hose, that goes onto the metal piece you show, that is the main intake to the water pump.
BTW: It's very helpful if you put the year, engine type, like 22RE or 3VZE, whatever, and the trim setup, like SR5, DLX, and so forth, into your signature so we can tell at a glance what we're all talking about. See my signature, or several others, for examples. It helps us help you
Another possibility, is that you didn't replace the main front seal, the one IN the oil pump, that seals the crankshaft, when you removed all the other stuff. If it's been long enough, quite often it can wear a groove into the crankshaft.
They make seals that fit exactly the same in the oil
as before, that's not quite right. the front main seal wears a groove on the machined surface of the crank pulley, not the cranshaft itself. the crank pulley slides over the crankshaft, and has a machined/polished surface on it which interfaces with the seal. the seal slides over the machined/polished surface of the pulley, not the crankshaft.
as before, that's not quite right. the front main seal wears a groove on the machined surface of the crank pulley, not the cranshaft itself. the crank pulley slides over the crankshaft, and has a machined/polished surface on it which interfaces with the seal. the seal slides over the machined/polished surface of the pulley, not the crankshaft.
I didnt read everything you guys said so excuse me if i missed something.
Whats circled is a coolant passage on the back of the timing cover which does need a paper gasket and needs to get torqued down pretty good to seal. I dont remember the exact name or part number but they are available. I forget if mine came as part of a set or solo. You might be able to get away with fipg but thats your call.
Have you checked the bottom of the oil pump? Or the crankshaft where it comes out of the oil pump? Both places are likely suspects.
If the oil pump gasket got pinched during installation, it can leak. It can happen anywhere around the oil pump. Like right near that small pipe you have circled.
There's an easy way to hold it in place when installing the oil pump. Take a toothpick, or something similar, and put a small dab of heavy grease, similar to what you would use to lube the U-Joints in the drive shaft, into the groove around the oil pump the gasket sits in. Put a dab at the corners, and a few along the straighter areas. It will hold the gasket onto the oil pump, which will keep it from getting pinched during installation.
Another possibility, is that you didn't replace the main front seal, the one IN the oil pump, that seals the crankshaft, when you removed all the other stuff. If it's been long enough, quite often it can wear a groove into the crankshaft.
They make seals that fit exactly the same in the oil pump, and around the crankshaft, but rides on the crankshaft in a slightly different position, thus avoiding the groove. Also, if you didn't replace that front main seal, it could just be worn out. Thus leaking oil.
The picture you show is indeed water. IIRC, the small pipe going to the rear is the heater pipe, I believe. It feeds back to the hose that goes up to the heater control valve. Again, I believe.
The real big pipe it's bolted below is from what's called the jumper pipe. The bottom radiator hose goes to that jumper pipe, which goes in a U up to just below and behind the water pump. Right under the power steering pump. Then there is a J shaped radiator hose, about the same ID as the bottom radiator hose, that goes onto the metal piece you show, that is the main intake to the water pump.
BTW: It's very helpful if you put the year, engine type, like 22RE or 3VZE, whatever, and the trim setup, like SR5, DLX, and so forth, into your signature so we can tell at a glance what we're all talking about. See my signature, or several others, for examples. It helps us help you
Hope this helps a little...
Pat☺
Hey Pat -
Thanks for you incredibly detailed response - really appreciate it!
I'll have to update my signature, but it is a 1991 Pickup 22RE Base.
When I replaced my timing chain, I did replace the oil pump gasket and the front main seal. I used the slightly smaller seal you mentioned which rides a bit deeper in the oil pump in order to move the mating surface. It seems pretty dry around the oil pump - I attached another photo below when I last looked at the truck (it was too rainy today to check it again) and it seems like the oil is all on the driver side of the engine, not underneath the oil pump. Where else would you recommend looking?
Most common leak would be in the corners where the timing cover meets the head and the oil pan AT THE BLOCK.
could be the O RING on your dizzy leaking or it might be blow by from your dip stick. You can slip a small O ring on the dip stick as well to get it to stay in place.
I had trouble with sealing the gap just above the alternator bracket in your pic where the black silicone is...
also the bolt coming in the front of the timing cover on your Pic thru the alternator bracket has to be TIGHT!
IF your leak is around the head and the top of the timing cover, i believe it usually is in a timing cover removal without pulling the head.... the little skinny freaking piece of the head gasket is almost impossible to not munch when you slide the cover back in place sooo...
then the FIX for me was to buy some gasket material and make a gasket for the space between the head and the top of the TC but, but, but
I made the gasket big enough around the outside so I could hold on to it and help guide it into place and make sure it was seated against the head and the block, you can then trim off the excess or like I did just leave it...
if you didn't put FIPG on the threads and shank of the "hidden" bolt... it will leak
If you didn't seal the top bolt that goes thru the oil pump into the back of the timing cover it will also leak.
not the greatest Pic, but you get the idea
It's also way larger on the inside but can't take a Pic of it sorry.
I did use the part of the head gasket I cut off as a template ONLY for the hidden bolt hole, the rest is over sized so I knew it wouldn't get munched and I had some control over it mushing back against the engine block where the cover and head meet.
Last edited by 87-4runner; Jan 5, 2021 at 04:30 AM.
It's tough to remove residual oil when leaving the head on, and that renders sealant and fipg useless. I know some endorse leaving the head on when doing the chain, but I wouldn't. Chasing down leaks often means redoing all your labor.
It's tough to remove residual oil when leaving the head on, and that renders sealant and fipg useless. I know some endorse leaving the head on when doing the chain, but I wouldn't. Chasing down leaks often means redoing all your labor.
I took my cover off 6 times before getting it done , well worth the time and effort to do it for me, without having to pull the head.
your 4runner is a twin to our red turbo 4 runner... our gold stripes were so far gone though I had to do some improvising to make it look good without doing a paint job... maybe some day.
I miss the gold graphics 😔
Last edited by 87-4runner; Jan 5, 2021 at 08:55 AM.
Jan 4, 2021 | 12:50 PM
