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I know I’m going to get ˟˟˟˟ for this but I’m doing it anyway. I started to mock up a sc-14 supercharger onto a 3.0. Just need to relocate the alternator and maybe the power steering pump.
Do it you beautiful mad lad. Forgo all practicality for the sake of pure rowdiness. Who cares that there are better engines out there, the 3vze is what you got, go make jet noises. The vehicle will be haterproof.
You made my night. I’m only doing this to prove the internet wrong. I built a 3.4 turbo motor. But this is for all the other 3.0 fans out there that there is another alternative to add power that isn’t a big expense or too costly. I’m using the alternator bracket as a mount and trying to keep it as cost effective as I can. But hoping for at least 250 HP out of it to make it worth it. Thanks again for the post.
Put me down as your second yes vote. To me, the biggest 3.0 problem is finding a way to get it to breathe. I'm interested in seeing how you do with this.
Bravo Charles, this is the SC off the Previa. I for one applaud your intent and spot on mate! The SC-14 seems a lot bigger when placed near the 3VZ-E engine. Does it look any better on the PS side. Thinking that the output would go through an intercooler to get to the DS side and rout into the TB and plenum? Have you given any thought as to putting the AFM on the suction side of the SC-14? On second thought this OBD-1 ECM may not cut it and therefore you might need a better controller for the ignition and fuel injection to get this to work unless the cold start injector has enough duty cycle capacity for the added fueling that will be needed to get 200+ HP? Another idea might be to use a coolant to air intercooler between the SC and the intake and forgo all the external radiator and plumbing or use methanol/water injection to get the intake charge temperature lowered some? Getting the pulley size and the respective boost pressures produced will take some fiddling to find the best compromise. Another easy thing might be to put thicker copper MLS head gaskets into the build to take down the compression ratio a bit so you can expand the super charging rolloff pressure without losing too much of the total gain. Otherwise premium fuel won't probably have enough octane in it to keep this thing from pre ignition while under boost at the lower PRM's.
Do you have any good books on how to do forced induction weather it be mechanical supercharging with a compressor like the SC or turbo charging with exhaust gases? The sweet spot for efficiency and reliability is not easy to hit when we try to do this with parts bin engineered solutions. But as for the 3VZ-E, forced induction would certainly make up for getting past the two valve per cylinder limitation this engine has going for it. (10Apr2020) Oh I forgot to mention that was with sub 20 psi tire pressure and a a pile of camping gear and tools in the truck. With the COVID-19 freeways in CA being uncluttered with traffic the commute to work payload with 28 psi front and 38 psi rear TP's the 5K in 4th looks like it is not the top speed! It would be cool if it can max the speedo at 110 MPH.
My naturally aspirated 91 4Runner with a K&N FIPK has massaged heads, intake manifold and plenum with port matched DT headers feeding into a 2-1/2" FlowMaster HP- 2 muffler were the catalyst is usually positioned followed by a FlowMaster-FX at the OEM location all plumbed with 2-1/2" pipe. With the fresh rebuild I did on this engine last year it will pull 5K in fourth gear at WOT and that is it's top speed which is about 95-100 MPH (depending on radial sag) with 31X10.50R-15 Cooper AT3's with 4.56:1 gearing in the axle.
Last edited by Andrew Parker; Apr 10, 2020 at 06:01 AM.
For now it’s stock. I’m not planning to run the boost up just yet. Get it running. See how it does. And then tune it to see what it will do. And if it blows up it blows up. I have a spare 3.0 that takes it place. Honestly trying to prove the forum wrong about this motor.
The 3.0 it’s going on has rebuilt heads with dual valve springs in them. ARP head studs mls head gaskets that are copper coated. Stock internals with who knows how many miles on it.
So far I have the stock alternator bracket holdings the SC on. Just need to extend the adjuster out and make a rear mount to hold the back of the SC in place and it should be mounted.
Charles, when I redid my engine I mounted a 16" Zirgo to the radiator and removed the clutch fan completely. I now realize that I could do away with the auxiliary shaft and pulleys as the AC, PS and Alternator all have tension adjustments. In your case if you can get cleaver with the alternator perhaps the auxiliary shaft might allow your to be able to offload one of these to it and then free up the harmonic balancer to power the SC-14 directly. I wonder if the Previa 4 cylinder SC'ed engine shares the same harmonic balancer pulley size as the 3VZ-E?... If it does that might get your RPM on the SC-14 into the right range. Dang thats a wide multi "V" belt on that thing!
I am going to speculate that the semi-floating wrist pins in the pistons on this engine will be the thing that gets knackered with supercharging this motor. Because they are drawn through the connecting rods and are a pressed fit into the rod. The bearing is the wrist pin rotating inside and the bore in the cast piston. After my HG let go, when I did my rebuild three of the six piston assemblies in my engine had seized wrist pins in the the pistons. This produced some piston skirt damage and was quite loud as slower RPM finally occurred before it stopped running altogether with the steam pouring out of the tailpipe. I made it back to within 100 miles so a AAA tow could be initiated to get it home. The OEM's are cast aluminum pistons so this might not bare up to well with the SC-14 stuffing it with extra heat loading! I think I have seen that LC Engineering has forged ones that they make for the 22RE's super charged power plants they manufacture. They might be a source for getting some pistons, should the initial motor be short lived?
Hey the copper coated MLS gaskets are awesome. I used the tool rest from my drill press as a flat which I spray adhesive bonded emery paper to. Getting the ruddy sleeves out of the block requires threading in a bolt and pulling them out. Then lap the surfaces on the heads and block till the machining marks from the fly cutting are gone and the surfaces are almost reflective. The heads work pretty fast the block not so quick. Big figure 8 movement along the length of the block is the ticket and lots of WD-40 and reduced git paper in three passes is what it took. As you get it flat the dips seem to be show up at the webs in the block between the cylinders as the fly cutter has less surface area to cut and it springs into the material and removes it were the bores are near each other. The last ruddy place you want to have the HG's clamping pressure reduced!..
Last edited by Andrew Parker; Apr 10, 2020 at 06:06 AM.
Andrew that’s a lot of good information. As for pulleys I actually have to use to space out the belt to make room for the charge pipe. The charge pipe comes forward between the block and the SC. So it worked out kinda. As for the rpm issue. I’m only wanting to get this running and see what kind of boost it makes of any and then see where it can be tuned to be reliable for the stock internals. Once I get bored I’ll look at forges internals. But mainly trying to keep cost down at this point. Thanks again for all the awesome information
I’m confident that the internals will handle the stock 8 psi at 5500 the SC is rated for. Once it gets all put together and is driving down the road then I’ll up the boost and see what it can take. By then I should have another 3.0 I can put better internals in. Thanks for the reply.
Last edited by charles.isbell85; Apr 12, 2020 at 04:27 AM.
Have you considered making another lower bracket from a thicker material or possibly welding some strap on the existing one to handle the additional forces from the sc?
Have you considered making another lower bracket from a thicker material or possibly welding some strap on the existing one to handle the additional forces from the sc?
Yes. Im in the process of making the main mount and adjuster then trying to figure out how to mount the last mount that is on the bottom rear of the SC to either the block or the motor mount. Thanks for the question.
Mar 31, 2020 | 12:33 PM
