So, after asking for advice here a few weeks ago, and reading the whole 3VZE sticky thread, and searching classifieds every hour for weeks, I finally bought a new Runner, and I think it's a good one.

The truck is a '91 SR5, and pretty much fully loaded as far as I can tell: has electric windows, cruise, sunroof, multi speaker stereo (including weird footwell speaker mounts), tailgate spare mount and factory roof rack. It has an custom cat-back exhaust, 20" 5th Gen. rims, a 300W inverter, a monster stereo set up (Kenwood double-din with two power amps mounted to rear seat backs and huge speaker box sitting in the trunk area). There is a CompuStar remote starter fitted, which I believe also has some kind of alarm/immobilizer function, seller wasn't super clear. It also at one time had a Sony Playstation in the glovebox which could be played on a (now missing) alpine 9" screen in the dash - some of the wiring for that is still present. Headlights have been upgraded to LED multi bulb units.

The frame is very clean for an Ontario truck, apparently it was leased new by a doctor and then returned at end of lease, it was then sold by the dealer and has been resold twice within a group of friends who have mostly used it for cottage and camping trips it seems, mileage is 261,000kms and it has had the "special service upgrade" or whatever it's called.

Truck runs really strong, can take some hills in 5th! I guess this is down to the exhaust? Drove it 170kms back home from where I bought it and loved every minute.

The not-so-good stuff:

Power steering leak, seller had recently installed a new pump, probably forgot to tighten something properly.

Brakes are really, really bad! Like stomp on them and still take 100 feet to stop bad. I've ordered new rotors and pads, hopefully that makes a difference.

Rear glass starts to go down but then tilts to one side and jams, I feel like this happened on one of my old trucks, but I can't remember the fix. On a positive note, it goes down with the key in the tailgate!

One of the keys is broken, and the missing 3/4" is still in the ignition. This means you have to start the truck with the broken key. There is a second intact key.

There is a high-pitched whine inside the truck while it's running, hard to describe exactly, doesn't seem to change notably with increase in rpm or vehicle speed, so not the odometer or rev counter cables? I half wonder if it's related to all the electrical mods that have been done. Can't hear it under the hood.

Steering wheel is worn - and because it's a cruise model I'm guessing replacement is a PITA? Does anyone know the size? Might just order a colour matched cover.

The front plastic of the centre console is missing, and the remote starter box is jammed into that space, how easy is it to remove the CompuStar system? Is that plastic cover easy to source?

I don't really like the 20" rims, too flashy and I can't fit A/T rubber. Anyone know what's the largest tire I can run on a stock 2nd. Gen. and what the best rim size is for a mix of pavement and basic off road (not crawling) use.

Does anyone know where I can get the rubber seals for the dual back-up lights on the tailgate (spare tire version)! Tailgate is in great shape and I don't want it getting wet inside.

Think that's the stuff that's weighing on my mind at the moment. I'll add a pic, when I can, probably post more later.

Thanks for any and all advice anyone might have.

 

That's usually the hoses and seals . The pressure hose at the very least, and the seals where it comes from the pump. I had all my hoses replaced on my pickup, by a Marine shop mech that was nice enough to make me some new ones Stopped all the leaks I had. On my 4runner, I had to go to a mechanic, as I had been out of the Corps too long, and all my friends in Hyd Shop were all long retired. Anywho, the 4Runner leaked like a sieve at the pump, right down into the alternator, which would fail every few months because of it, so they replaced the hoses and seals, and voila! No more leaks.

Did you try bleeding the system first? It might be either air or water in the system. Bleed it in order, and keep refilling the reservoir with fresh brake fluid until you get fresh, new, pristine fluid out the bleeder valve you're working on. It CAN make a difference.
Also, did you check the pedal height and push rod adjustments? It can make a difference. Do that after you bleed the system.
Something I discovered by accident, as well, was that the LPSV, the Load Proportioning Sensing Valve, might need a "reset". I had to give the brake pedal a pump to get the right "feel" to it. It would be mushy on the first push. I had my mech put it up on a lift for something unrelated, but it let the rear end go to the farthest down the truck would let it. After that, when I drove it away, the brakes worked perfectly. Nice and tight on the first push. Have ever since, too, about 3 months now.
You can simulate that by taking the long rod that connects the valve to the rear axle off the axle, and pulling it all the way down, then reattach it to the axle. I'm not saying this IS your trouble, but it's something to look at.

Anywho, there's my take on two things, anyway...
Pat☺

 

That's some good information, thank you. Replacing the power steering hoses sounds easy enough, I'll have to look up the sizes. Never bled the breaks on a car before, I did the clutch on my '89 when I replaced the slave cylinder. I'm guessing it's a 2-person job, some special tools needed?

Got the rear window moving yesterday - passenger side non motorized arm was stuck on a pile of rust flakes. Rails are pretty bad, but I think there's a place in BC that sells aluminum replacements, which seems like a worthwhile upgrade.

 

The removal of the ignition switch, IE the key you use to start/run the truck, is pretty easy. You should be able to take it apart and get the chunk of key out. Then you can get some dupes of the new key. As many as you need. I have one, my wife has one, and we have one for the mechanic. Handy to have a spare in your wallet, too.

Two people make it a LOT easier. One to open/shut the bleeder valve, one to push the brake pedal. Have a tube on the bleeder valve into a small container of clean brake fluid, crack the valve open, push the brake pedal to the floor, close the valve, release the brake pedal, rinse, repeat. Remember to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped with clean, new brake fluid!
There are brake bleeder kits, with a tube and small container, at almost every auto parts store in the world. The container, with some clean fluid in it prevents drawing air back in the system if the pedal is released before the valve is closed all the way. Although, honestly, if you want to go super cheap, a two foot piece of fish air tubing will fit nicely on the bleeder valve, and a small, clean glass jar will do to hold the old, used brake fluid
Only tool you need is a 10mm combo wrench to open/close the bleeder valve.
Bleed them in this order:
Right rear,
left rear
right front
left front
LPSV

Note: the order is farthest from the master cylinder towords the nearest. The way the lines are routed, not necessarily physically.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Thanks Pat, that's a great, easy to follow bleeding tutorial, I'll try it this weekend if I can find somewhere to buy some DOT. I'll try getting at the ignition too if I have time. IIRC there are two screws under the cowling on the column that let you take it off?

Also, I should have said this in my first reply to you: thank you for your service. My step father was UK Royal Marine, father was RAF.

 

Yes. Two screws that hold the cover on the steering column. Easy peasy to take off. You'll need to use the 1/2 key to turn the lock to the ACC position to take it apart. I would take the negative lead off the battery before you start this effort. Don't want to accidentally short something, or get zapped. Once it's in the right position, there's a small pin on the side of the cylinder that you push in with a small pick, or whatever, then slide it out. Also will let you clean the switch and it's contacts.
If you search this forum, there are a few "how-to's" on taking the key apart.

I was glad to serve, and I thank your family that did as well.
Pat☺