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Sub Box Placement

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Old 01-15-2009, 04:26 PM
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Sub Box Placement

First off, sorry if I'm in the wrong place. I have a 95 4Runner and I'm planning on 2 sub's in the cargo area. I'm gonna be building my enclosure soon, but I don't know how to place it, should I face it to the tailgate, should I face it up and angle it toward the driver? Any opinions?
Old 01-15-2009, 04:49 PM
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ACSig,
The bass frequencies coming out of your subwoofers are not directional (they fill the entire space). The beauty in that is that you are free to place them wherever you want, as long as the actual enclosure has enough airspace to accommodate your specific subwoofer. I hope that helped.
Old 01-15-2009, 05:09 PM
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i am in the process of doing the same thing but i dont want to lose my space that i have. what my plan is to make two seperate boxes for each side. i am going to put it on the sides behind the wheel wells towards the tailgate. that way i still have the depth of the back and it is just narrower. the only down side is it goes in front of the stock speakers. so i was going to disconnect them and drill a whole above the wheel well to put them there, and since i have 2 extra pairs of 6X9's i was thinking of putting them in the new hole. they have pictures of what im talking about for the 3rd gen 4runners. they come premade for that model i was just going to make my own that same style for mine. but you should be able to find a pic of them. ill post a picturre of mine when i finally get the money to put them in
Old 01-15-2009, 05:13 PM
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i have a 2 chamber ported bandpass box in mine. i point the bass tubes at the rear hatch. best acoustics i have heard IMO. although after 2 years i am starting to hear stuff in the hatch rattle.. time to dynomat it i guess.
Old 01-15-2009, 08:19 PM
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The best thing to do is build the box then put it in the actual vehicle facing different directions. Even though someone may have a vehicle identical to yours the acustics can still be different from vehicle to vehicle. The most important thing to take into account however is not which way to face the subs but the have the correct airspace(size of box) and recommended power to run them as this will determine output much more than the way the subs are facing.

Thomas
Old 01-16-2009, 04:45 AM
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Thanks, I like jonky's idea for the two separate sub boxes to save some space. I'm also thinking that the sound might not be too good for the tailgate, especially since they do not seem to have been designed all that well. After reading all the broken back windows on here, and having two, myself, that are broken. So should I put some kind of foam in it to help prevent any kind of damage?
Old 01-16-2009, 04:10 PM
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point your sub at the tailgate is not going to damage it or anything else any more than facing it away from it.

Honestly your questions depends on what you want your subs to do. Bass waves intensify/develop after they have traveled. I believe if I remember correctly it takes about 20 feet for optimum distance to achieve a solid bass wave.

Therefore if you are looking for a more "boomy" type of bass you will be please facing your subs toward the gate and about 2-3 away from the gate. This gives the wave 2-3 to the gate and roughly 8-10 feet to your head/body. Definetly "feel" this bass more.

On other hand if you are more of a rocker you may be more pleased facing them right at you so the boom is heard in front of your hood, rather than in the car.

THese are not universal truisms mind you but true non-the-less. A properly built enclosure trumps all else....even speaker and amp quality.
Old 01-21-2009, 01:30 PM
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I got my amp mounted, subs installed, and wired into my truck. When I turn it on the amp lights up, but all I here is air squeaking. I tried building my own sub box, is that a possibility of why it's doing that? It seems sturdy and air tight, but I just don't understand why it isn't working.
Old 01-21-2009, 02:22 PM
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Check for correct voltage and contact between all your wires. If thats all right I might guess you have the wrong impedance loads for the amp. Post your amp and sub manufacturer and model numbers and I or someone else would be able to tell you if they are right. Are they are SVC or DVC how did you wire them?
Old 01-21-2009, 02:23 PM
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Oh and dont run them till they sound right.
Old 01-21-2009, 04:05 PM
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They are 2 Adiobahn AW121T's and an Adiobahn A8000T amp. I have full power to the amp, it turns on fine, the speaker wires are running around 1.5V. I hooked it up just like this.
Old 01-21-2009, 05:02 PM
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Are you sure those subs are dual voice coil? all the AW121T's I have found online are showing single 4 ohm coil. If you have a single coil you are using a dual coil winging diagram and I am assuming that is the problem.

If they are single coil then wire the positive terminal of one sub to the positive of the other and the negative to the negative of the other, then run positive and negative from either sub to the amp. That will give you a 2 ohm load at the amp (assuming they are single 4 ohm coils) which will be about 250 watts per sub i believe.

Thomas
Old 01-21-2009, 05:18 PM
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Like this........(dont laugh at my mad paint skillz)



Thomas
Old 01-21-2009, 05:28 PM
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It has 2 positives and 2 negatives, doesn't that mean that it's a dual voice coil? If you go to this website and check out the last pic it shows it.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=13336
Old 01-21-2009, 05:38 PM
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yota8083 is 100% right. As long as the model numbers you posted were correct you have two subs that are Sigle Voice Coil. Dual Voice Coil would have 2 sets of + and - contacts on each sub. Wire it to his wiring diagram and you will be pushing the full 800rms watts with a 2ohm load. If you wired it like in the picture you posted then I can see why you wernt getting any sound out of them. It is bad for both your amp and speakers to be running like this for any length of time. They are most likely just fine you just need to change the wiring around.

Also a word of caution, 800rms watts is ALOT. It is not a good idea to run this system loud on your stock battery and alternator. To fix this there are a few things you can do;
1. Get a capacitor. If you dont know what that is search google and do some reading. If you do this make sure you know how it install it before trying.
2. High output alternator.
3. Special audio grade battery. (They are expensive)
You can run it as long as you dont turn it up too loud. Wait till its dark and turn it on and turn it up till your headlights dim with the music, then turn them down.
Old 01-21-2009, 05:39 PM
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You replied while I was typing. Hang on I'm going to research some more.
Old 01-21-2009, 05:48 PM
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Well if you have it all wired like in the picture you posted I don't see why it wouldnt work. Check it, maybe you got confused when connecting them. (I did once)

Other than that maybe we are chasing the wrong problem. In that case someone with more experience will need to help you. If you cant find anyone here then maybe find a car audio forum or take a drive to your closest car audio shop.

I apologize for not being able to solve this problem for you. (I'm upset with myself because I can't think of anything)

Old 01-21-2009, 05:58 PM
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Alright, thanks for your help anyway, I'll check the wiring again tomorrow. It's supposed to be a lot warmer, a whole 30 degrees.
Old 01-21-2009, 06:00 PM
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lol. Here is sposed to be high 50s tmrw. Was like 70 2 days ago.
Old 01-21-2009, 06:22 PM
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it looks like you have it wired right. try checking the rca's i always use either wood glue or caulk to ensure a good airtight seal. Elmers has a caulk in a squeeze tube you can get from walmart. 9 times out of 10 that is what i use. if you do it right 800w isnt all that that bad. i am running a 4000w in mine and i do have the occasional light dim when i have the brake lights on. but then again i am not pulling 4kw i have an Audiobahn AWC10T and it hits hard enough until i get 2. when u say all you here is air squeeking does that mean u here no bass at all?


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