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When I was doing my rebuild and trying to remove as much as possible to pull the motor I rounded on off some of my draft shaft bolts and how to cut them off.
On my 4x4, I rounded off eight which meant I had just enough factory nuts and bolts to mount my rear drive shaft but none for my front.
My question is, is there any reason why I can't just get a bolt that fits and a flange nut to match from my local hardware store? The OEM factory bolts are 'spenive for such a basic duty or so I think...
When I was doing my rebuild and trying to remove as much as possible to pull the motor I rounded on off some of my draft shaft bolts and how to cut them off.
On my 4x4, I rounded off eight which meant I had just enough factory nuts and bolts to mount my rear drive shaft but none for my front.
My question is, is there any reason why I can't just get a bolt that fits and a flange nut to match from my local hardware store? The OEM factory bolts are 'spenive for such a basic duty or so I think...
1.50 is too much? Wait till you see what the big orange box wants for a similar sized bolt.. Pretty sure I just paid a good 10-15% over that for the stuff I had to grab the other day.
If you want to try and get them for cheaper a few places come to mind, eBay, your local salvage yard, and McMaster-carr.
Reasons you might not want to get hardware from the hardware bins include having matching hardware (because changing wrench's is a PITA) and quality.
I haven't seen any for $1.50 this is what I've found
I'm not really concerned with the quality as we have industrial type hardware place (not talking home depot or Lowe's) where I am where you can get just about any grade bolt and nuts to match for wholesale prices.
I'm more concerned with are those factory bolts engineered for a specific purpose? Like are they supposed to the weakest or the strongest link in the drive train should something fail to protect the transmission?
If your local hardware store is like mine, they stock high quality bolts/nuts along with the cheaper grade bolts/nuts. Mine stocks metric grade 10.9, and that should be plenty strong enough. Metric 10.9 is equivalent to US grade 8 which is dang good.
The actual Toyota bolt, washer, nut are no longer available https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18380, so I would feel okay about using the appropriate hardware. It turns out I can get J.I.S. Metric hardware at my hardware store. J.I.S. 10mm bolts use a 14mm wrench, DIN use a 17mm wrench. Get the right ones.
And while you're at it, measure the thread pitch on your factory bolts. I suspect they're M10-1.25, not M10-1.00. That would make a difference in torque values.
Whatever you do, don't pick up 5/8" bolts from the big-box store. At least try to do it correctly.
They are in fact much softer than the grade 8 and grade 10 stuff you'll find in the bins, I believe they have two strike on the head which makes them four or six grade. (You can look those up in the bolt specification table of the FSM..) They will be more likely to stretch that snap.
Your parts counter guy should be able to find the current part number if that one turns out to be discontinued (the other one I was looking at was a 11014 iirc)
My comments about quality where in respect to who has handled them and how they were treated. You can actually damage quite a few pieces in a bulk package of bolts by dropping it for instance.
Some of the best hardware I've found are from the local John Deer branch, for whatever reason and they sell there hardware by the pound.