Hey guys, so I have a 22re that’s giving me a list of issues.
1. Truck won’t start after engine is warmed up, it takes 2-3 tris then it starts.
2.with idle adjusted when you first start the truck and it warms up 2-3 minutes it purs like a cat! After diving for 30 minutes or so once I stop at a stop light truck is idling rough (like the idle is set to low) so to combat that issue I readjust the idle to where it purs like a cat again. Then the next morning it sounds like it’s in high idle cause I had to adjust it.
3. Ac compressor once hooked up wouldn’t engage. Hard wired it to a toggle switch and works but it’s constantly running, so to combat this issue I have to turn it off and on every 2-3 minutes so I don’t burn the compressor up. Also when I turn the compressor on it pulls so much power that the truck sounds/acts like it’s going to stall. So as in issue #2 I can’t run the ac.

This is getting embarrassing and aggravating, I live in South Georgia and it’s hot!!! Help!

 

First off, I'm not much of an engine performance guru.
Secondly, the 22RE is a computer controlled fuel injected vehicle, so the computer is supposed to handle the idle and no adjustment should be needed.
All you did was to adjust the throttle blade and thereby the amount of air entering the intake at idle, which the computer is trying to do with the IAC (Idle Air Control) stepper motor.
So, you need to get out the field manual and put everything back where you found it and figure out what the actual problem is. Maybe the IAC, maybe the throttle position sensor (or adjustment there of), maybe the cold start injector.
Maybe you just need a tune up, how long has it been? Fuel filter? Air filter? Bad gas (swamp gas?) Timing?

 

Fuel filter 3,000 miles ago, air filter every 3,000 miles tune up motor was rebuilt 14,500 miles ago and cold start injector is functioning properly.. and field manual is giving me nothing.

 

Try jumping the diagnostic port beside the fuse bank under the hood as if you were checking your base timing, if you can hear the RPMs drop and it actually does return you to base timing, then the TPS should be in adjustment. That's what tipped me off when I was battling an erratic idle.

Also, you said you set the idle as soon as you start it up? Should be set once engine is at full operating temp, setting it cold will throw your warm idle out of whack for sure. 2 to 3 minutes may not be long enough to warm it up fully, definitely not where I live.

 

Have you checked timing? If you're having issues setting the time and/or the diagnostic port doesnt change your iddle take a look at your TPS as @5 Fists mentioned.
I would recommend getting a timing light that can measure RPMs... Set your idle when warm to 750~800 RPMs, you should not need to adjust your idle as @akwheeler mentioned.

 

I’ll try to find an idle timing light and do as you guys said and will let y’all know what I come up with.

 

How do I jump the diagnostic port? And should I screw the idle screw all the way down before jumping the port?

 

Right behind the main fuse box should be a small plastic box labelled "Diagnostic", open it up and you want to jumper TE1 and E1 with a paperclip or small length of wire. Do this while the truck is running and listen for the RPMs to change, if they do, TPS should be in adjustment and you've crossed one thing of the list. If not, follow the adjustment steps on Marlin Crawlers site, specifically the 10 steps outlined by "Frankenyota" worked for me.

 

You never mentioned what vehicle and year you are working with..

There are two different designs of valve used, and two locations for diagnostics ports..

Important details.

If your vehicle is 89+ it has an IACV (idle air control valve) mounted into the throttle body. If it's 88- it has an AAV (Auxiliary air valve) mounted below the throttle body.

Both rely on coolant flow to close air passage that bypasses the throttle plate. The AAV also relys on electrical power from the ECU to control a heating element that helps regulate the valve.

Both are subjected to crankcase gases from the PCV system, which can make the valve stick..

There are trouble shooting flow charts in the factory service manual and detailed test and repair steps. You should maybe have a look at them.

 

How are you adjusting the idle?

 

I have a 1991 Toyota pickup 22re

 

You'll find the diagnostics box aft if the battery, like mentioned above, then.

First step is check for stored codes by jumping the connection as above and ideally you'll get a steady flash (no codes) from the check engine light on the dash when you turn the key to run/on with the jumper in place. This will also verify the throttle sensor IDLe signal.

 

How are you setting the idle? Which screw?

The idle up for the ac needs the input from the ecu iirc. So hardwiring the compressor means your gas foot needs to compensate as it's not gonna idle up?

 

I’m adjusting the screw on the throttle body.

 

https://22reperformance.com/intake-e...r-screw-o-ring

This one?

 

Yes that’s the one. Is that an issue?

 

Still having issues can’t seem to find the issue

 

Did you do any of the things suggested in the thread? Without knowing what you've done or haven't done it's basically impossible for anybody to help...

 

Dustin, one of the things about EFI (electronic fuel injection) is that YOU don't get to adjust the idle. The computer (ECM) does that.
Now that you have adjusted the hard stop on the throttle body you need to get out the service manual and adjust it according to Toyota specifications.
If the idle is too low you need to DIAGNOSE the reason why, check the troubleshooting guide in the service manual.
Check your air filter, check the timing, check the throttle position sensor for proper adjustment, make sure you have good fuel and have had a recent tune up and fuel filter.
Check the idle air control (IAC) motor for proper operation.
When you have done at least some of these things tell us what you did and what you found.

 

Akwheeler, this generation of engine (actually none of the 22re, and I am pretty sure 3vze) do not use a stepper controlled idle air valve. These use a bimetallic valve that opens and closes with coolant temp (the first generation 22re uses an auxiliary heater signal from the ECU also).

They indicated above that the idle air screw was the one used not the throttle plate stop screw. There are two idle air bypass screws, one in the VAFM (has a factory plug over it, dont touch this unless youre an old grey beard with ooddles of engineering degrees and fancy kit!) that bypasses the vane and another molded into the throttle body that bypasses the throttle plate.

You can adjust the throttle body bypass but you need to insure the engine coolant temperature is upto a minimum spec (from memory its 170°) and that the diagnostics jumper is in place, this proceedure sets your base idle speed.

Yeah this! If you don't give clear and detailed results of the tests and adjustments recommended you are leaving us in the dark. This is frustrating for everyone involved.

(Edited for some typo and clarification)