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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Help a newbie out! 95 Pickup 4x4 V6

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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 08:22 AM
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Help a newbie out! 95 Pickup 4x4 V6

So I got a awesome deal on a 95 4x4 with a v6. Found the truck sitting in my father in laws field going to waste. Long story short he parked the truck in 2012 because it started getting stuck in low gear until he pulled over put it in park and then drive again to have no issues. My question is, I swapped a new battery in it and all it does is turn and turn with no fire. I'm not hearing a fuel pump prime and I've read mixed reviews about hearing it. Is it true, should I be hearing it prime when turning the key on? Also the fuel gauge isn't showing a level. He said it worked when parked. Truck will turn over with starting fluid but of course dies once burned. All the fuses under the hood look good and so do the ones inside. Any tips on what I should check next? I didn't see any signs of rats nests or any chewed wire. Can I maybe jump a wire to force the pump to kick on? If so does anybody have pictured advice? Thanks in advance!!
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 08:49 AM
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Welcome to YotaTech.

But you need to at least try the Search function. We talk about the fuel system probably 3x/week here.

The fuel pump is powered by the COR (circuit opening relay), which has two coils. The first closes the relay with key to STArt, the second coil is powered through a switch in the VAF (Volume Air Flow meter) when the engine is sucking air. So, no, you shouldn't hear the pump with the key-on alone. But you can bypass the COR by jumpering B+ to FP in the diagnostics connector. Key-on runs the pump, which you can hear when the starter isn't cranking. If the truck runs then, the problem is in your COR-VAF circuit.

DON'T "crack" a fuel line to check for flow. Whenever you open the pressure-side of the line, you must replace the two crush washers. Cheap as dirt, but dealer only. Instead, put a 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl line to a suitable container from the fuel return of the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). With the pump running with the jumper, I get about 1/2 liter / min out of the fuel return line.
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Your fuel pump is shot. This nasty gas E10 turns to sludge and jams the pump; permanently. You have to replace it, flush the tank of sludge, re install and fill with good gas. Next you probably blew the fuse with the bad pump so that needs to be checked. Then once you have pressure on the fuel rail you may have to manually pulse the CSI to get enough gasoline in the intake for it to actually start. If the CST (cold start timer) works that should not be needed but be ready for it.
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by skypilot
Your fuel pump is shot. This nasty gas E10 turns to sludge and jams the pump; permanently. You have to replace it, flush the tank of sludge, re install and fill with good gas. Next you probably blew the fuse with the bad pump so that needs to be checked. Then once you have pressure on the fuel rail you may have to manually pulse the CSI to get enough gasoline in the intake for it to actually start. If the CST (cold start timer) works that should not be needed but be ready for it.
where is the "fuse" for the fuel pump? is it the efi fuse? they all checked out to be good!
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
Welcome to YotaTech.

But you need to at least try the Search function. We talk about the fuel system probably 3x/week here.

The fuel pump is powered by the COR (circuit opening relay), which has two coils. The first closes the relay with key to STArt, the second coil is powered through a switch in the VAF (Volume Air Flow meter) when the engine is sucking air. So, no, you shouldn't hear the pump with the key-on alone. But you can bypass the COR by jumpering B+ to FP in the diagnostics connector. Key-on runs the pump, which you can hear when the starter isn't cranking. If the truck runs then, the problem is in your COR-VAF circuit.

DON'T "crack" a fuel line to check for flow. Whenever you open the pressure-side of the line, you must replace the two crush washers. Cheap as dirt, but dealer only. Instead, put a 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl line to a suitable container from the fuel return of the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). With the pump running with the jumper, I get about 1/2 liter / min out of the fuel return line.
Jumped them didn't hear anything kick on. I'm assuming pump really is gone
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 03:36 PM
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With the key-on? Jumping alone does nothing.

You COULD have a dead fuel pump. On that guess, you could drop $100 on a replacement pump, drop the tank, drain it, pull out the old pump, install the new one, all without damaging 23-yr old hoses and wires, then put it all back together. If it runs, then your guess was correct. If it doesn't, you're back to square one.

If it were my truck, I'd put my multimeter on B+ and verify I had 12.6v to ground with key-on. With key-off, I'd verify I had infinite resistance to ground on FP (meaning the pump failed "open"). If you don't get 12.6v on B+,. or if you get low (<10 ohms) resistance on FP, I'd rethink the bad-pump idea.
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 04:34 PM
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Got a hose down in the tank and try siphoning it out. Fuel was brown/red. Pulled out hose and had sludge in it. I cut Off a piece of wire and jumped the gap with the key on and still nothing. So I'm assuming fuel pump is bad. Either way I already ordered a new tank and fuel pump for the truck. 130 bucks for both is definitely worth the headache!
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cana_yota
Got a hose down in the tank and try siphoning it out. Fuel was brown/red. Pulled out hose and had sludge in it. I cut Off a piece of wire and jumped the gap with the key on and still nothing. So I'm assuming fuel pump is bad. Either way I already ordered a new tank and fuel pump for the truck. 130 bucks for both is definitely worth the headache!
Please post pictures of what you get for $130 and also of what you find when you tear out the old one!
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
Please post pictures of what you get for $130 and also of what you find when you tear out the old one!
like the links? I get alot of my stuff from amautoparts
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 12:21 PM
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I'd actually like to see pictures of the parts when you receive them and your opinion on quality/value. Let us know if you get good products because that seems like a very low price for a new tank and pump.
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
I'd actually like to see pictures of the parts when you receive them and your opinion on quality/value. Let us know if you get good products because that seems like a very low price for a new tank and pump.
I've been ordering from them for years! I have parts on my Canyon and my Cummins from them. I would honestly stay away from them for shocks but everything usually comes with a nice and long warranty and a hassle free return (excluding shipping). I try and find their store on eBay because the prices are just a little lower (reason unknown) but their website is just as good on pricing. Plus usually free shipping! Fuel pump ordered from them for like 26 bucks and fuel tank was 120 and some change but eBay had a 15% off deal going on so it ended up being a little over 100. But I will post pictures and a update after a couple of months of use!
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