Posting a link to video I took during the process of cold starting my 3vze. Any info as to what would cause this would be appreciated.

end of the video shows the engine firing.

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Check your fuel pressure, fuel pressure retention, and the starter probably needs rebuilt (dry bearings, fresh lube). Mostly the fuel pressure and its retention.

When mine starts with a bad battery, sluggish cranking, it fires off pretty quick like two or three revolution. Yours seems to need a little heat in the starter before it starts to spin with a higher speed, this leans towards a mechanical issue with the engine or the starter is "dry". Obviously the starter is the cheapest, easiest, thing to check.

You can jumper the fuel pump diagnostics port, let it sit a few with the pump running then " hopefully " it will fire and run on a first crank This would indicate a problem in the fuel system, like a bad anti drain back valve (needs a new pump), or a ˟˟˟˟ty fuel filter.

PS, give a text description of the issue to go along with a video. It helps people zero in on what the issues are.

 

Before I messed with the starter (but after I did the simple fuel pressure check described by Co_94_PU) I'd try to confirm that the CSI worked. Don't disconnect the fuel line (you'll need to replace the crush washer), just pull the whole injector out of the plenum and stick it into a can. Have someone crank it and see if any fuel sprays.

 

Hello thanks for the replys. I jumped the fuel pump port and made no difference in the start, neither did trying to stat with ether. CSI works fine as far as I can see. Havent had a chance to pull the starter yet but I suppose that's my next task.

 

It's not the starter. It's turning over plenty fast.

(Remember: in the good old days you started your car by turning a crank BY HAND.)

 

 

Do you still have your old external coil? Id swap that back over and see if it changes anything

my truck sounded similar, would start sometimes, then never would. I bought an aftermarket coil when I did the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires thinking it was a good idea. I was wrong!

 

Have you checked timing? (Particularly after replacing the cap and rotor.) (Remember the jumper, so that you are setting "BASE" timing.) After you set it, you can put your inductive pickup on each plug wire as you crank it. If the light flashes, the plug is firing. This is an end-end check; igniter, coil, distributor, plug wires all have to be working to fire the plug.

 

Unfortunately do not have my old coil but Im going to order a new one . Is there a brand I should be using or should I shell out 60 bucks for one from the dealer? Ive check the timing and it's on, checked timing belt to make sure the belt didnt skip as well.

 

I bought a used one off ebay with "low miles." my original had maybe 200k on it, new one had...10k

used OEM wins again!

 

Found my multimeter... primary resistance of the coil is off so definitely needing a new one.

 

Denso ignition coil finally arrived and installed and that was not my issue. Should I still be checking the starter? Starter was replaced about 30k miles ago. I've tried swapping the fuel pump and filter, no difference. Ether doesn't help the engine fire any faster. After I have heat in the engine she fires immediately, every time.

Additionally I am having issues while running. My idol is very erratic. It will start low, build to a fast ilde over about 60 seconds, then will cut, almost stall, idle low, then build again etc etc. No CE codes.
There is also very little power at the wheels when the engine isn't at op temperature.

Can anyone link me to a fuel pressure kit that I will be able to use on the 3VZE (everyone says you need a special adapter).

 

After re-watching the video a few times, the way your engine cranks over sounds like an engine with low compression.

Compare to this video below that sounds like normal cranking (at least to me):

Maybe it is just me, but it sounds like the starter is turning faster than normal, which would be true if the starter doesn't have to fight compression.

I would run a compression test next if you have a compression tester handy.

 

Truck has been sitting for a day or so...Got in the truck today to drive to a parts shop to rent a compression test kit and she fired right up first try.... didn't want to stay running and eventually stalled after about 30 seconds. I'm so confused. Gonna pick up the test kit now and I'll post the results. Thank you everyone for your continuing help !

 

Either I'm doing something wrong or the gauge I rented is broken because all of my cylinders are showing 0 psi but the truck will start and drive which I'm guessing wouldn't be possible with ZERO compression across all cylinders. Right? I didn't think a compression test was very complicated what am I missing here?

 

Need pictures, maybe. Could be a loose hose connection, stuck release valve, or just a trashed guage.


Your starter has , to me, a strange character. It doesn't crank at a constant speed, it should be the same every time the whole time. You need a minimum speed of about 60 rpm. A good strong starter system (starter, wires, and battery), should not have any problems getting into the 3-600 rpm range.

Probably a bad power or ground, just generally a wiring issue is the root issue. In my experience compression only goes down when the motor heats up, the exception being a ring that sticks and frees up when the piston expands the ring land.

I suggest checking loaded (cranking) voltage at the ECU and ignitor, as well as voltage drop across the grounds (ECU, body ground ect)

 

Looking at your dash I would guess your truck is an 88 model. Is that true? I bought a new 88 the first year for the 3vz. After I had it a little while, it would be hard to start at times. I checked with Toyota and found that they had a recall on the ecu in my pickup. I had the ecu replaced under warranty and that cured the starting issue. Might be something to check.

 

Yes this is an 88. Swapped for new gauge and it's working but the results weren't good: #1 and #2 are running about 40psi #3 and #4 are 0psi and #5 and #6 are 130 psi


p.s. Anyone know a fair asking price for a pretty 88 3vze automatic that needs a ton of valve work or basically a new engine?

 

Sorry to here the bad news.

The reason for the strange cranking was due to the fact that the load on the starter was inconsistent and much lighter than normal, as shown be the low compression numbers.

This engine almost sounded the same as when you remove all the spark plugs from an engine and crank it.

 

Checking power (amperage) on the starter will point out these sorts of issues, but you typically need an oscilloscope.