So the good news is a got a very nice 2001 V6 Solara which can now be my DD (37,000 miles, Sunday driver). But looking at my truck in the driveway day after day, I don't think I want it to go. So let's do a cost/benefit analysis.

I have had it for about 3-4 years now. Mileage is at 250,000 or so. California, fairly rust free car living in Pennsylvania now.
I recently replaced, always Toyota OEM, the following:
Valve cover gaskets, which don't leak
Oil cooler flush-out
timing belt
water pump
plenum cleanout and new gasket
all wheel bearings
all brakes and brake lines
e-brake cable
good condition BF AT tires

Now here is what is wrong:
tie rod ends and bushings
it is sagging, so we would want to do the springs at maybe a 2" lift
burns oil like crazy
pretty sure the HG just started leaking coolant into the engine since its not leaking but the level is dropping
the exhaust is leaking everywhere including the manifolds
power steering pump is leaking
odometer is dead or the speed sensor is dead, but think its the odometer
and in general it is slow as molasses and feels really tired to drive


What should I do here? I have the time to fix it, I don't need a DD, and would be open to whatever. Part of me wants to fix some stuff and keep it as is but given the HG job and exhaust, the expense of this, and then best case scenario still having this crummy engine I think I should try something else. So 3.4 seems like the best bet or maybe a Chevy small block. I will probably pick up some air tools to facilitate this work. I can sell parts on ebay from the 3.0 to fund raise. Donor 3rd gens seem to come with high miles and cost about 1000 in my area on craigslist, not terrible since I could sell a bunch of parts to offset the buy price from both cars and maybe get close to breaking somewhat even.

I welcome community input on this one! Thanks.

 

Rebuilding or upgrading is a hard call.....I. Would pull the 3.0, have a machine shop evaluate the block and heads......if good I’d rebuild the 3.0, probably add headers, then drive it. There are many mods you could do to it for power, they do come with risks. The 3.4, Chevy, or others have their own issues, the 3.4 is well documented here. Look ahead 5 years, how would you likely be using the truck then......go for it.

 

what's high miles on the 3.4L?

if the speed sensor was dead, you'd have more problems than just the odo not keeping up with miles traveled. so, yeah....probably just the odo itself

 

The truck has been sitting for a time now and I just don't think I can part ways. Besides, fixing it is cheaper than getting something else, even a 3.4 third gen with an unknown history. With that said, I have a question for the community. I have access to buy a 200,000 mile 3.0 that is a 1994 Runner for about $500. it runs and drives but has external rust problems that are cosmetic.

Now here is a question I can't quite figure out. I have noticed some runners have speedometers with sensors and some with an actual mechanical cable for the odometer/speedometer. My 1993 does NOT have a mechanical cable. I have seen a couple of 94's and they seem to have the cable plug in in the back, hence not compatible (though I might be confusing this with a 95). The question is can I use the 94 cable style and retrofit this to my 93 truck or better yet, is it possible that this 94 is sensor based? is there a way to tell from the VIN?

Are there any other 94 to 93 compatibility issues to know about if I wanted to swap the engines or exhaust? Also, I have a manual but this other truck is an automatic. Any issues there with engine swapping?

 

Just where in Pa?? Close I don`t mind helping from time to time.

There are those that love the 3.0 others that hate it.

If you want to stay with the 3.0 look for a used running one cheap

Myself I have had very good luck with my 3.4 engines once all the bugs were worked out.

If you decide on going the 3.4 route read the stickies lots of good information

Do the timing belt your good to go

Each swap is a little different when it comes to electrical nothing that can not be figured out .

It might take some time but with the VIN search for the speedometer parts

Swapping could get interesting changing everything over

Automatics and Manuals use different ECU`s you will have both also the engine harness which you should have

I am guessing you want to keep the manual swap engines and then use the harness from your vehicle you will be good.

 

If you want to stay 3.0 get it overhauled properly, use an ARP stud kit on the heads, and get stainless steel exhaust headers or pipes. Otherwise its just going to repeat on you.

 

Appreciate the offer for help, may take you up on that. I'm near Philly.

I really am at the whim of what shows up on Craigslist. I am open to a 3.4 or a 3.0 if the price is right. Given that my frame and a few other bits are rust free and in good shape, its a dead heat as to which direction I go. I'll have fun with the build in any event since this isn't my daily driver.

As to what I absolutely MUST do to pass inspection, I am looking at the exhaust, tie rod ends (at least outer but why not inner too), and header gaskets. Kinda makes more sense to do the 3.4 but I'll wait for the right deal to show up.

 

If you want to an SBC with a th350 and AA adapters, along with a 4inch body lift works, But I would look at the Ford 5.0l since the dist is at the front.

 

Aright, the deal might go down. Asking $600 for it. If i look the VIN up it shows as a 95 but the door jam says 09/94......hoping this doesn't foil my odometer swap plans. Even so, the exhaust should be swappable along with some of the engine stuff, or the whole engine.

 

If you're going to put the engine from an automatic into your manual truck you will need a pilot bearing, might as well replace the whole clutch kit, and don't sell off your original engine until you have finished the swap. You may end up needing something off of it. Connectors and sensors change from time to time.