So i decided to replace my timing chain because what i have read with all the broken guide on these 22RE engines. I went ahead and saw mine was broke and decide to replace it. I installed a brand new set along with a new water pump and oil pump. After everything was put back together there seems to be noise coming from what seems to be by the front of the engine. I've been searching on here for something similar but i haven't came acrossed it yet.

Here is a link to the noise it making:


Thanks!

 

Did you pre lube the oil pump before install?

 

I don't think so. I just threw it on how I got it in the box.

 

One of the oil pump bolts can go through the timing cover and bear on the chain tensioner and jam it, if the bolt used is too long.

I think that it is the center top bolt.

 

I'll have to check this. Would I be able to take the valve cover off and look down or what I have to tear it down a bit?

 

You should be able to look straight down the timing cover using a strong flashlight.
I just looked at an engine I have the valve cover off of, and I can see the small boss on the inside of the cover where the bolt would protrude if it was too long.

 

If you did not prime the oil pump the wrong bolt is not your only problem

Was the dry oil pump run long enough to make it a paper weight that is the question you need to find the answer to

 

What did you tighten your tensioner to?

 

The rocker arms are known to make noise when they contact the valve cover, if the valve cover has been tightened too much.

You might completely loosen the valve cover nuts and run the engine a minute to see if your noise lessens, or quits.

 

I have ran the truck for about 10-15 minutes. I took a drive down the road too for like a mile. Could I have ruined my oil pump from not priming it?

Didnt use a torque wrench on the tensioner, I did get it decently tight.

I tried this but the noise is still there.

I looked down it but I didn't see something the looked to be in the way

 

So I just broke a bolt on the steel guide when I was using the torque wrench. I think my torque wrench doesn't work that well, I feel like it takes more torque then what is says to click.

Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.

 

If you over tighten the tensioner you will distort the body. Buy a new one. Get a new click wrench. My harbor freight 3/8 drive works GREAT for $20

 

Tool abuse? It is bad for the spring in a click style wrench if you leave it under tension, always loosen them up when you finish with them. They can be checked easy enough vs another, or manually.

More spring tension than which old one and roughly how much more, obviously the 30 year old one will show spring fatigue. So long as it's not sticking or binding in its house and can move freely it should be OK. If you're talking about two new units having different spring rates, that could be different production runs different manufacturers and it's not a major issue as long as it's not binding..

I don't recall a spec for the spring..

 

Is there any news of this noise, or its resolution???

 

I have a similar knock in my 87. It only occurs at idle. As soon as the RPMs are raised it goes away. My engine is totally new. LCE Performance crank rods and pistons. New upgraded timing kit. New oil pump. Rebuilt head etc. I have already replaced the tensioner again the new on from LCE was bleeding pressure from the seal. My timing guides are the metal plastic coated guides. I have been told they are noisier but not sure on that one. Engine runs great just cant figure out the knock. Pulled the oil pan and inspected the bottom end and everything is as it should be. I would be interested in finding out if yours is fixed and what you found.

 

Just extracted the bolt. Been busy last two weeks. I'm going to buy a new torque wrench and new tensioner and grab some extra gaskets tommorow. Should have it put back tommorow and will update what happens.

 

I learned that slight torque variations really make a difference in chain tensioner performance. Once you get the timing cover torqued down, the tensioner seems to bind easier than without. Mine was sticking slightly at 14 ft/lbs. In the end 9 ft/lbs worked the best, and yes I used high temp threadlocker on the threads with such low torque. I use a 1/4" beam-type torque wrench and it is really accurate for low torque readings for about $20.