So after some 25 years, the rear parking brake cable snapped.

The cable broke "under" the rubber bellows where the cable exits the sheathing heading towards the drivers side rear drum.

OEM cables cost about $90 or so
The Dorman C9417 is around $33

So, I decided to try the budget solution on my 1989 Gen1 4Runner.

The Dorman cable
-- does not have an extra layer of sheathing where the cable bends around the end of the gas tank
-- has a different "sleeve" where the cable to the drivers drum passes through a bracket
-- has a very simple rubber "boot" where the cable starts at the frame fitting in front of the gas tank
-- does NOT come with new clamps to where the cable bolts to the frame
-- does NOT come with cotter pins where the clips attach to the bell crank

I had to "bend" the U clips where it attaches to the bell crank. Mine were "too close together". It took a few seconds with a screw driver to spread them.

The BIGGEST PITA on the 4Runner is that the OEM cable bolts to the frame along the gas tank, and there is no room there.
I shoulda dropped the tank and moved it over

Instead - the rear most fitting, which is accessible with a flat wrench, the bolt sheared off.

The forward fitting, which is in the area under where the fuel filler hose enters the tank, was also blocked by the AOR spring hanger (5" forward of stock)
It is "barely" visible via the fuel tank access door under the passenger side rear seat.
I tried to CHOP out the fitting with a long cold chisel. That took a LONG slow time to do

I ran the Dorman cable just sitting there along the tank. I may zip tie it to the frame later.

I tool the spacer bracket off the axle near the drivers side drum. Its pretty rusted, so I have to fiddle with it to see it I can get it to work with the Dorman cable.
Until that time, the cable WORKS far better than the rusted cable.
Im guessing that my supposed frozen bell crank was actually hanging up cable..

I tried to take pic, but they came out awful

 

As long as it works!!

I go with the Toyota cables till they go obsolete .

Most times I just cable tie the new cable to the old one near the attaching hardware knowing it is going to break if I try and remove it

 

[QUOTE=wyoming9;52336224Most times I just cable tie the new cable to the old one near the attaching hardware knowing it is going to break if I try and remove it[/QUOTE]

palm - foreheat

DOH

Too Late now....

Tho getting the other end of the cable out of the way at the frame - that might be a pain / rattle
I dont recall if I can get bolt cutters into the space to snip it off.

The Dorman cable works FINE
As I noted - the seizing bell crank issue was probably the cable (all this time!)

 

If I need to cut the back end of the old cable 4" grinder with a cut off wheel