Look what came from the engine shop:





Yup. Two reworked heads, and one bored block. Plus, the turned crank. Next step is to order the rebuild kit from Enginebldr.

I am looking for motor mounts.
What works best for you guys? I do want a decent amount of rubber, since this really doesn't see the trail much.

Also, I have a small purchase list. If any of you did this before, what else did you have to purchase

• Fuel rail seals
• Master rebuild kit (Enginebldr)
• knock sensor connector (from harness to pig tail)
• motor mounts
• oil cooler hose

Thanks!!

 

Ok, long time, no update. The engine is mostly assembled. So far, we haven't had too many hiccups, mostly anxiety. Just little things too.

This was saturday:



Saturday Evening:



Laaaate monday night:



We had a bit of a panic when we noticed we had an extra rod bearing. Well, it turned out we used an old one on #1, so that was resolved. Then, putting the heads on, we forgot to check the surface of the driver's side head for any gasket residue. The passenger side had a bit, but since we'd already gotten it torqued tight, we said 'oh well'. Have I mentioned its me and my father doing this? It has been nice having him around, since this is not his first engine to rebuild. Last big issue, one of our head gaskets was missing one of the white seals around the outer edge. We decided to use it anyway, since its outer edge, so hopefully that will be fine. We are close to reinstallation. We have all of the seals for the fuel rail ($30 at Yota dealership), I'm ordering the injector seals today, and I think that should be it. I've gotta figure out a way to salvage the KS connector from the harness to the wire going to the block, and I cannot find the fuel injector cup o-ring anywhere decently priced. Anyone have a good source, or should I hop over to the OEM section of AutoZone and grab some generic ones that look close?

 

Since the oil pressure gauge went out on mine a while back, I needed to replace it, so out the dash went. Surprisingly, it wasn't that hard. Took ~30 mins at most, even with me forgetting to put the lenses over the bulbs .

Here are some pics:

Picture of the connectors (don't worry, these can only fit in one way, one connector)









It is NOT supposed to be bent. This explains why it was still moving, but only a bit. I think it goes high, gets stuck, and then years later when you finally replace the sending unit, it bends when it tries to move properly




This side was 'falling' since the clip was worn. I just bent it outward and it looks new . Probably should clean the grille though.

Same with this side, looks way better.

The yellowing is a bit different from the other gauges

 

update: the engine is in and working.

Two issues:
* odd ticking, might be because its only done 5 miles around the block a few times and up the road, or an injector is going weird.
* CEL throwing 52, which I believe its because of the loose connector from the wire coming out of the block to the harness. Its a funky fix, I think I am going to tape it tight.

 

It'll never run right until you clear that code 52.


Computer retarded ignition timing and rich mixture are the order of the day until then.

 

Since I can't find, nor repair the wiring harness connector, I ordered some generic waterproof ones, and I'm going to solder it in. I want to make sure she runs right. Even before tearing it down, it was intermittent (code 52) after I did a top end rebuild in Jan to replace that sensor

 

Oh, and for the first time since I got it, I have a working oil pressure gauge

 

Ok so I have some plans for tomorrow (and throughout the three day weekend):

• Rear reverse lights (check wire from tranny) (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...everse-257983/)
• Rear windows stuck/slow (not super bad)
• Passenger power lock doesn’t work (motor) (maybe pick a part)
• Power mirrors don’t work
• Knock sensor (first get antenna coax and connectors) https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...e-jerk-158575/)
  • Check the wire
  • Wire new connector
  • Check all connections

The knock sensor stuff, I'll solder the new connector on. I'll have to remove the plenum a bit (crosses fingers), Then if that doesn't fix it, I'll retrace the wire to the ECU, then if that doesn't work, then to the extreme: replacement of the KS with the GM one.

Of course the next course of action is a glance around at the reverse lights. Then, a nice bath and wax.

Also, I combined three images of my truck:

 

Alright. I cannot get that Code 52 gone. I think my ECU is toast.