So my window goes up but not down did some research this happens and it's the cylinder its self if it is the relay I'm horrible at small Solder connections but I will try to do it anyways. My problem is how the heck do I get the cylinder out to put a new one in and if I put a new one in can get it to match my current key ?

 

What? I don't have a 4runner (so no motorized rear window). If I understand your post correctly, you turn the key one way and the window goes up, you turn it the other way and nothing happens. If you can turn the key it is NOT the lock cylinder. It is the internal switch (or perhaps the relay). But I don't have the EWD for a 4runner, so I'm not much help beyond this.

But to answer your question, you can easily get a replacement lock cylinder re-keyed to match your existing keys (or vice-versa). Any competent locksmith can do it; it's not expensive and doesn't take long.

 

Yes it only works one way goes up but not down it's annoyingly hard to get to anything behind the glass when it's down and can't figure out how to get the glass to come up with the tail gate down. My 87 is much more basic and hacked up so working on it is easier. How the heck do I get this thing out I read that it needs a heat gun? If the lock cylinder doesn't have a dead spot I guess I need to find a wiring diagram to follow

 

could be a break in the wire as well. with the tail gate down, you just use a screw driver to close both latches, and you can roll the window out. be careful not to go all the way as it is real weak at full out and should be supported. like 2" from full out should be good to support it. i would test the lock switch with an ohm meter before replacing. common place i found is near the gromet where it goes inside the body. you need to unplug the harness in the rear hatch to fish it down for repair.

 

R u sure u can do that with the 2nd gen i tried that and just got warning beeps from the relay

 

Also how does the cylinder come out do I need a heat gun and a new grommet ?

 

http://web.archive.org/web/200808020...5/contents.htm

This download works. I forget which section you need but it is there

 

Perfect thank you. So I checked out the rear lock cylinder it said to check for continuity so I'm assuming if goes up and doesn't go down its dead on that side and also said to replace it any other reason why it wouldn't go down besides that. It does go down with switch in the cab.

 

you check continuity at the keyswitch connector in the gate. i thought mine went out as well, but found the bad wire when i was doing a bunch of other wiring repair back there. by chesk continuity, you use an ohm meter and follow the wiring diagram. common to up whe you turn the key, and common to down when you turn the key. may need to have someone work the key while you hold the leads on the terminals. it should work with anything under 4ohms.