Hello hello! I am back looking for more help/answers about replacing the power steering pump without the actuator for bleeding the anti-lock/power steering system. As well as flushing the power steering system. Everyone here was so helpful with my last set of problems/questions I had to come back!

So onto the problems with my truck...

I have read that a specialized/job specific/vehicle specific tool is required when bleeding the system. Is there any way around this? I want to be safe while driving haha.

I have never flushed a power steering system on ANY vehicle. I need to do this before the new pump goes in. There is power steering fluid in the system from the previous owner.

Should I replace the steering rack as well? I have heard old ones can give out when there is a new pump installed... Does this hold merit?

Thanks in advance!!

 

Well, ya got me. I've never heard of an SST for bleeding the PS system, and the manual doesn't mention it. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...10onvehicl.pdf (There is an SST for removing the high-pressure hose. I've never seen one other than in the manual, and I never used one. I'm going to guess that it is to prevent twisting the flex hose when torquing the fitting.)

If you can help us (me) out with a reference to the specialized tool, that would be great.

I will say that draining the PS system is not for the neat. I'm pretty good about these things, but I still dumped a lot of fluid on the abs actuator. Be prepared for clean up.

(And I assume you know: you don't use "Power Steering Fluid." The PS system is filled with ATF.)

 

Thanks scope.

I will try and find where I read about the brake actuator tool...

The reason I need to flush the system is because the previous owner used power steering fluid in lieu of Merc/Dex III, so yeah.

Yeah I am prepared for a mess with the flush. How should I go about flushing the system though?

Thanks again

 

Uh, the reason I attached a link was .... ?

 

Ahh I see, my bad. Totally missed that.

 

This is what I found easiest.
1. Turkey baster to drain the reservoir.
2. Removed hose from reservoir to return line at return line, not reservoir as manual states, and dumped it into a can I had ready to go.
3. Remove hose from reservoir. Reattach to return line. Put hose down into a catch container.
4. Get a piece of hose with hose clamp on reservoir.
5. Remove ignition cable that runs from ignition coil to distributor.
6. Refill reservoir.
7. Turn key to run starter for a few seconds to mostly drain reservoir. DO NOT drain reservoir completely.
8. Refill reservoir.
9. Repeat until you have clear fluid coming out the return line.
10. Redrain reservoir with baster. Loosen clamp on short hose on reservoir and drain into can. Then reattach stock hoses.
11. Refill reservoir.
12. Reconnect ignition coil cable to distributor. Leave PS cap off and rotate tires back and forth until you see no more bubbles in fluid. Put cap on and done.

But before you do this I'd recommend replacing/having on hand all of your soft return line hoses as it's a messy job no matter how you slice it as scope pointed out. And those hoses are at end of life if they haven't been replaced. (I did the hose from reservoir to pump a year ago and now have a leak on drivers side near steering gearbox so get to redo to stop a messy trans fluid leak.) And have a few cans of brake cleaner on hand to make cleanup as easy as possible.

Personally, I used amsoil atf for the refill... DO NOT use power steering fluid unless you want to damage your PS system.

 

Glad to see I am not the only one that gets fluid everywhere when doing the power steering. I lay out some cardboard boxes underneath the truck to catch any spills that still seem to happen.

Like mentioned above, I suggest putting the front end on jack stands and rotating the steering wheel from stop to stop to get the air out. It will save your arm and wear and tear on the front end. For me to get the air out, I will say it takes a good ten times from side to side to get the air out.