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1990 toyota pickup running great then go out to work and no start

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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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1990 toyota pickup running great then go out to work and no start

Hey everyone im mike...northern California....good ole boy
I bought this 90 toyota pickup v6 motor. It was running real real good for couple days...go out to work yesterday....nothing. im mean it cranks good....but nothing not even a burp. Checked fuel filter...clogged as f@@@ replaced. (Can this cause pump to go bad?) Still nothing. Pulled fuel rail fitting seems to be pumping gas...but of course theres no way to measure pressure this way w no guage....pulled a plug....very dry not wet at all. I haven't verified spark tilll I have a assistant here....now....theres no choke obviously....but is there some other cold weather provision im missing to check here?? Thanks ill keep updating. 3.0 efi motor
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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So its looking like no spark situation.....just weird running great one afternoon then next morning nothing. Nothing changed that night I was asleep.....idthink
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 03:54 PM
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Check to see it the coil wires are tight and if it has power when the key is in run position. Check for breaks in the line.
Check to see if the power wires to and from the distributor are getting good connection. Check for breaks in the line.
It's a good time to pull out all your fuses (one at a time) and test them. When I have to look at my fuses I test them all and if anything looks corroded of funny I just replace it even if it still works. Some of those are probably 20+ years old.
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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Any check engine codes? Even if the light isnt on, it may have codes stored.
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 07:48 AM
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I dont have a code reader and trucks not at shop or nothing....just im my yard....going through electric today as suggested
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 08:11 AM
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I'm with Odin, check for power to the plugs and distributor… Did you try jumping the fuel pump from the diagnostic port to definitively rule it out? Thats where i would start.
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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I did the diagnostic jump wire....but whoever had this truck lost its cover so opening of ports h ella corroded w dirt n stuff. I cleaned best I could ran small wire key off...then on....both times nothing (couldn't hear anything)
I cracked fuel rail motor crank few times....gas spurts. ...
however...
looks like someone did a clutch pedal bracket fix....looks like fuse box knocked around missing bolts...it just flops up there....
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 08:21 AM
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From: Mesquite Texas
Originally Posted by rocketbear
I did the diagnostic jump wire....but whoever had this truck lost its cover so opening of ports h ella corroded w dirt n stuff. I cleaned best I could ran small wire key off...then on....both times nothing (couldn't hear anything)
I cracked fuel rail motor crank few times....gas spurts. ...
however...
looks like someone did a clutch pedal bracket fix....looks like fuse box knocked around missing bolts...it just flops up there....
I'm no ASE certified tech but…. I don't think its supposed to be like that

Also, if the fuse box checks out, i'd grab an inline spark tester, takes one person to do, will tell you if you are getting spark.
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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Yea im digging as round for my d.m.m. headed out there now
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 08:24 AM
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Oh yea!! I got a spark tester too
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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Update
well after my testing related components ....I find its a loose dirty connection at fuel pump on top of tank. Took apart cleaned and fired up!
Thanks yall....mike
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 12:36 PM
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No spark at the plugs because of a fuel problem, seems odd to me.
Glad ya got it fixed up though.
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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Me too....perhaps I performed spark test wrong. All it could be I reckon
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 05:27 PM
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From: Mesquite Texas
Right on man, glad to see it was something simple… What lead you back there though? Not getting power or something?
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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If you have more problems with corrosion a product that helps corroded or bad connections is called DeoxIT.
There are a few different formula's and it's expensive, because it works.
Works best on smaller contact area's like fuses, connectors, and switches.
It's not meant for battery cables and larger stuff like that.
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