Aloha All, I've searched this and Toyota Nation Forums but saw different reponses. I need to replace the timing chain as it's beginning to slap the damper on start up but the sound goes away after 1 minute or 2 of warmup. Is it possible to replace the timing chain, 2 dampers, water pump without having to remove the cylinder head, front differential (since I have a 4x4), oil pan and oil pump? I may end up replacing the oil pan and oil pump since I'm there but don't want to pull the front diff and/or cylinder head if I don't need to.

Thanks all for your help,

DC

 

oil pump can stay on the cover. you have to at least drop the oil pan a little. it can be done this way but its harder to do properly. the right way is to pull the head and pan because both of those will have to seal against the timing cover. plenty people try the easy way but only those who really know what they're doing get away with it. most will end up leaking from the pan or from the front of the head gasket, and will have to do it all again.

do it the right way and it won't leak at all.

 

the171 makes some good points, but keep in mind that pulling the head is the same story: you can't cut any corners or you'll be redoing it. See THIS THREAD about pulling the head. He did all that work but didn't get the head or block serviced and it only lasted a year. In retrospect, he would have pulled the motor for a full rebuild.

That is as opposed to THIS THREAD which leaves the head on, drops the oil pan a little, and gets the job done. I did this, except I have a solid front axle so dropping the pan completely out was a breeze. I have some oil weeping around the timing cover, but no more than usual at the head itself. I feel like if you're careful to not completely destroy the head gasket you'll be OK.

 

I was going to go Stanprophet's route and do the "head on" way, but the more I thought it...the more it made sense to remove head and replace the head gasket which I believe was never replaced because the engine block/oil pan at the front of motor had a ton of silicon there. I think the timing chain was replaced once with the head on. The motor has 175,000 miles and I already have an OEM head gasket and head bolts, so it's the smart thing to do.

I am going to have the head checked out for problems. I want to buy the sanding block from Putney's to check the block surface for high spots so I hopefully avoid problems with the new head gasket. I don't want to spend a lot of money on the old head. I had wanted to get one of Putney's heads but at $550 for stock and $850 for performance, but for a chunk more I could have one of their motors. But money is limited at this point and my motor is still healthy.

My point being this....I am doing the head gasket but will be checking both head surface and block surface for high spots to avoid problems. While I do agree with the head on timing chain R & R, you are still taking a chance with an older head gasket that can develop problems after you button the motor back up when you were already there to begin with.

So it's less work and take a chance or more work/less problem potential (as long as surfaces of head/block are checked). Just my x2 on what FGZ had said about not cutting corners.