I have a couple of project trucks where it looks like the previous owners have replaced the fusible link coming off the battery with regular wire. I tried to order the fusible links (part numbers 82991-89101 and 82991-89103 depending on year), but the dealer says they are not longer available. I found a website that still lists them, but when I placed an order they cancelled it because it is a discontinued part. Does anyone know a place that still sells them?

In the factory repair manual, it lists the link as "FL 2.0l". I believe that means Fusible Link 2.0 sqmm Blue in color? My research tells me it is equivalent to a 14 gauge fusible link. Can anyone confirm that or have anything to add?

By the way, the trucks are '86 and '88 carbureted base model 4x2 trucks with manual transmissions.

 

While not factory, this outfit may be useful for research. You may be able to buy material from a local auto electric place.

 

It should be pretty simple to replace the Fusible links with another circuit protecting device .

Once you figure the max safe current draw on the circuit

 

After having to go through the whole engine bay wiring harness to redo all the fusible links I think the term "Fusible link" is taken out of context.
The term uses it for is where wires come together and clamp or Fuse together, Not like the term fuse that we mostly know to burn out.
It would take a a lot more amperage of continuous draw to burn those and the normal line fuse would blow way before that.


I just used uninsolated butt connecters, Crimped and then soldered.

 

F.L we are speaking of is this:


It uses a special wire which like you said will take longer to melt than the fuse.

O.P. Needs to find material discussed in link that rworegon has above, and, yes use parallel butt connector. Then insulate with fire-retardant material/heat-shrink.

Super_nerd
Make sure you pick one with exactly same current rating as stock (80-amps?)

All after-market mods should not draw power from stock F.L. Use a separate fuse directly to battery post. This way, if anything goes wrong with add-ons, it would not compromise critical stock circuits.

 

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I need to find a 14 gauge fusible link and match the length to the factory length. I read somewhere that soldering is not a good idea on fusible links because they are sensitive to heat? Does anyone have input on that? I would rather solder it than crimp it if possible.

 

yes, crimp it like on the link rworegon shared:http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...ums&txt=outfit

 

Crimping does sound like the best way to go. It is also a good excuse to buy one of those higher-end crimpers. I have been wanting a better one for a while.