I've tried everything - from
breaker bar / tapping on nut/ Liquid wrench soaked from few hrs to overnight - heated casearound nut - bigger b-bar with pipe extension!
Nothing has worked & I got 500 miles to drive to start next work project Monday 4/28/14!
With all other plugs - tranny/ frt&rear diffs- all no problems swapping - just transfer case fill plug

i wanna say to thx to all those - jiffy/qwick /speedy lube& oil type wanna mechanic -flunky :?

 

Is the head of the plug stripped so the wrenches/sockets won't grip?
If so, get something welded on it.

 

You used a breaker bar and couldn't get it to bulge with out rounding it off? You can use a chisel and BFH to tap it loose.

 

If it's a top shift case, pull the shifter.

 

so you drained the transmission first , and then discovered the fill plug won't budge ?

The only real solution is to weld another bolt on there and give it a pull .... if the fill bolt is aluminum you might need access to a TIG welder .

Any decent welding shop probably wouldn't charge you more than a few bucks to do this ...

 

Make Sure you have a new plug

I use my air Hammer with a special ground chisel .

It always gets the stubborn nuts and fill plugs.

Never Seize is your friend.

Rule of thumb always break the fill plug loose first on anything!!!!

It sucks to have drained things and be unable to fill them

 

Yea that sucks, I always break the fill loose first because of stuff like that. All the suggestions above are great, I do this stuff for a living. You can also try a punch on the center of the plug, and give it a decent whack with a hammer. All you are trying to do is jar the plug to break the bond.

Some times if I can get in there I use an impact wrench. When you have a steel plug in aluminum it can get a heck of a bond going. I commonly have to use a 1/2 inch impact on the Explorer rear diffs. The independent suspension rears are aluminum housing, and we have to change the axle seals and do diff overhauls all the time on them.

When they get really stubborn, then the air chisel works best, but be warned there is not much room for error there. You can break the case very easy doing that, and it does take some skill. I have removed hundreds of seized oil pan drain plugs from aluminum pans using this method, thanks to all the oil monkeys wrenching the hell out of a drain plug that is suppose to be torqued to 25 Newton Meters.

 

Thanks all - after soaking with three cans of liquid wrench- & emptying 2 10gallon propane tanks- all it took was breaker bar & pipe to break it free!

 

Thanks all- after soaking since I posted other night - I packed rig & gave it one last shot! Heated with torch & breaker bar w/ pipe broke the ?!::!:!;! loose! new synthetic in & along with new plug installed! - stopped by a jiffy on way outta town & gave em the plug as a souvenir!